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martinwcox

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Posts posted by martinwcox

  1. Try these guys.

     

    https://www.obsoleteautova.com/

     

    I am in the US so if they have what you need, I can facilitate shipping etc.

     

    Or try Harold, he has a lot of stuff as well as many, many contacts.

     

    http://www.milweb.net/dealers/trader/tracks_debeule/

     

    Martin.

     

    hello guys

     

    i am looking for a set of connecting rod bearings size0.60

    for the engine of a international half-track, engine is RED diamond 450B

    does somebody have one of have a lead of where i can find it

     

    dirk

  2. Martin

     

    Depending how far your parades are if you are adding 20 gallons at a time you may find you have a nearly full tank....this is how I ended up with 300 litres in my tank...!

     

    Tim

     

    Tim,

     

    Yes, first time out this year went to add gas and oops its full! Have been driving all over and not filling up in order to draw it down. Most parades are 2 - 4 miles with a bit of city driving to get back to the flatbed depending on the logistics.

     

    My biggest fear is running out in front of the masses!

     

    Cheers,

     

    Martin.

  3. Dear Ron in Pennsylvania (Just below us in Canada on the map),

     

    I know both Terry B and Sirhc, even though I am in Canada, I don't own any CVR(T)s (yet), but I (try to) look after a bunch, petrol (or Gas as you would say) and diesel.

     

    I prefer the diesel, just loads more grunt without all the drama, I have a loathing for gasoline powered vehicles, it isnt the fuel it used to be, it lights up and burn way to easily. I'm still alive after a HP fuel line failure in a diesel boat that would have killed me if it was gasoline.

     

    Maintenance is key and lack of it will show, quickly. They are not a toy to keep in the barn and just hop in and go for a spin without doing a first parade.

     

    If you want to come up and look at some there are a number up here within a 3 hour driving radius from me.

     

    If you want to chat by phone send me an email.

     

    There is a lot of knowledge on this forum.

     

    Regards

     

    Robin

     

    Ditto on Robin and Tim's comments.

     

    I have a Scorpion and live near Boston, MA, feel free to reach out, ask as many questions as you like.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Martin.

  4. I have bought a new gauge assembly to fit - it is only really a problem when the tank is more than half full (rare). You could always just replace the glass with a piece of metal - after all how often do you need to do a visual check on your fuel level? If it stops, just stick a jerry can in! The 'glass' actually seems to be some kind of perspex or acetate, which may explain why it softens up over time.

     

    If you remove the bag (horrible job), then you might be able to rig something in the empty space, but size would be limited by what you can get through the 'porthole'. Reading your post again however, your bag hasn't actually failed yet, so why go to all this trouble for something that might never happen!?

     

    I run whatever comes out the pump and I am using the original bladder. I do regularly add a can or 2 of SeaFoam between fill-ups. I typically add 20 gallons of gas before each parade, my fuel gauge don't work, I have yet to run out in the middle of an event!

  5. Martin, did you buy it? If I knew you were bidding on it, I would have bowed out, as a courtesy. No sense to have raised the price competing... I always notice your posts on SS, I grew up in Newton Mass and still have some family there; I was impressed to see a Scorpion in Massachusetts, half expected the liberals to try to outlaw armor in the State.

     

    If the Saracen is coming home to you, best of luck with it. I travel to Boston area for business a few times a year, would love to see your fine collection some day.

    Gary

     

    I did not buy it Gary but I did facilitate the purchase for a good friend of mine. He lives about 30 miles from me. this will join a group of us that have Jeeps, Ferrets, Bren Gun Carrier etc. and of course my Scorpion. Your welcome to come play if you are in the area. With all this snow I doubt I will see my trailer till June! Parades early in the year may well not happen.

     

    Martin.

  6. Mike Starmer's book is a good reference for colour. It has some matched colour chips in the back that you can use to get paints mixed.

     

    Olive drab came in for new vehicles in April 1944' so the Croc is around the time of the changeover with some kit painted one way and some the other.

     

    For D-day, Anecdotes (mentioned in 79th division final report) state that the 79th equipment was still painted SCC 2 brown with the exception of buffaloes, but as the Crocodile mod kit was applied to the brand new Mk.VII churchill's it seems quite likely that they'd have been SCC 15 olive drab or some of the last kit issued in brown.

     

    SCC2 brown would have had SCC1A dark brown or SCC14 blue-black disruptive camouflage.

     

    The book goes into some good detail and is worth picking up.

     

    Lauren,

     

    That is great information, I have passed it on to the folks doing the restoration, cannot thank you enough.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Martin.

  7. Are you looking for the correct paint, or the correct colour of modern paint (this may be a silly question but having visited and seen the lengths the late Mr Littlefield went to I wouldn't want to assume - truly awesome)?

     

    Also, have you got a build date for the vehicle?

     

    Lauren,

     

    They want to paint it as it would have been for D-Day, ideally correct colour and paint but colour is the main issue at this point.

     

    Any references \ suppliers would be great.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Martin.

  8. Ditto on what timbo said except over here its green.

     

    I would seriously consider draining and filling and bleeding the system or at least get one of the cheap hydrometers that check the coolant quality and freeze point. Over here where we get pretty cold in the winter, its a must.

     

    Unless you have the decks off the easiest way is to pull the radiator hoses off on one end. Remember that in the raised position the radiator is isolated by the trunnion valves and needs to be in the normal position to drain, fill, bleed.

     

    Its great to see you asking all the questions before you bugger it up and there is a wealth of help available here. We all had to and contiune to learn, sometimes the hard way I might add!

     

    Cheers,

     

    Martin.

  9. Ditto on Robin's remarks.

     

    It took me a week of filling the valley and soaking with Kroil to get the plugs out.

     

    Remember it's an aluminum head, the use of any power tool to try to remove the plugs will not go well.

     

    Also, remove all crap etc. from the surrounding area before pulling the plug as said crap etc. WILL enter the cylinder.

     

    Patience here is your best friend.

     

    Martin.

  10. Richard,

     

    When it was originally manufactured.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Martin.

     

     

     

    Martin,

    Are you asking about the date the engine was made (originally) or when it was rebuilt? These engines could have gone through several rebuilds in their life and each time they went though this process a data plate was fixed to the engine, usually on a cam box, it gave a code for the Workshop that undertook the rebuild and any variation in bore size, main and big end bearing sizes, with the date of completion. Plates on J60 engines were often stuck on and seemed to fall off in service. When I was involved in engine rebuilds we usually riveted the plate to the block.

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