Eyemo-ed

Gents- Is there any photo evidence the wood on these was varnished instead of painted same as the metal?

 

My very expensive ash was delivered tonight and I am having a difficult time with the thought of painting this beautiful wood!

 

Paul

Hi Paul,

Just for your information this is a chassis plate belonging to a W.J.Reynolds trailer, my Reynolds also has it cast into the wheel hubs. So different to yours, but you are probably already aware of that.

Cheers,

Sean

Oak is acidic so use stainless or brass fixings

see here

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=fOwCGQnObxgC&pg=PA36&lpg=PA36&dq=is+oak+timber+acidic&source=bl&ots=FDXDB4FN4C&sig=FNF2IyXHNfATpUL5q7207YGwdg8&hl=en&sa=X&ei=44ckU7LVDuPF0QXE3IHgDg&ved=0CDwQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=is%20oak%20timber%20acidic&f=false

Very interesting article, am now going to use Ash !!!

Thanks very much for the info.

Just measuring up for the timber and noticed the 1" thick floor planking was not tight between the 7/8 "side planking, but is an inch narrower overall. Is this normal to allow for swelling or just shrinkage from age? I am planning to use oak. Any advice appreciated.

Sean.

Hi Mike and everyone,

Having just looked at your trailer pics ,it looks identical to mine, including the welded on wheel arch supports.

Let me know if it has 'Reynolds' cast into the the Hubs.

The Timken bearings on mine are the smaller outer bearing 09074 and larger inner 14125.The last number of the larger number is a bit indistinct but I'm pretty certain it is a 5.

I am just having my springs re-furbished at Brost Forge in London, they are also going to try to straighten the small cast brake ratchet lever, but with no guarantees it will make it!!

I am also still trying to source a replacement for the hub grease seals, new wheel nuts and a single wheel stud so if anyone can help please let me know!!!!

Re the discussion about trailer legs, Mike yours also appears to have the chain arrangement with split pin like mine, the holes in my one original leg are only just big enough for the large split pin. Maybe that was all there was as a safety device. The hole in the foot though is puzzling,any pics of it being used would be great.

Looking forward to the new cleats!

Cheers,

Sean

Finally got the rest of the metalwork to enable us to rebuild the neck of the trailer. Still wondering where to put the T plate though - on the rear boards or in the original position on strips welded to the RH rear rave.

 

Can anyone tell me the position of the holes in the two support legs on the GS trailer. I'm looking for the dimensions from the floor, as well as confirmation of the length - it seems around 30-31".

 

Also can anyone post a photo of the pin that secures the leg in the up or down position. I'm assuming it's just a piece of rod with holes drilled in it for the attaching chain, but does it have a split pin at the other end to stop it from coming adrift once in position and is this split pin also secured by a piece of bog chain or the like

 

Thanks

 

PS

 

Just come accross this picture of a Mortar trailer being used as an ammo trailer for a bedford MWG w/ Polsten

 

http://www.militaryimages.net/photopost/british-softskins-ii/p49003-british-softskins.html

 

sk

Simon,

I have one original leg which measures overall 31" including the foot disc.

The lower hole is at centre 6 1/8" from the top surface of the foot disc.

There is an upper hole centre at 12 3/4" from the top surface of the the foot disc.

As you can see there is a 1/2" hole in the foot disc.

The locking chain consists of a 2 3/4" split pin, 9" chain, 1 1/4" split ring and a 1 3/8" long metal tab with a hole for the split pin at one end and a 3/8 " hole for attachment to one of the bolts holding the leg casting onto the trailer body.

The foot disc is number stamped too, not sure of the significance..

hope that helps.

Sean, look at the photos of my trailer during rebuild as there are some shots of the rear. There are angle uprights at each side and a channel section (the same profile as those on the sides) in the middle. I would suggest yours is a post-war 'conversion'. Are there any holes for the bolts attaching the hinges to the chassis at the front?

I cannot help on the lettering for the data plate. Any luck on the canvas tie hole spacing?

Hi Tony,

Yes my trailer has hinge holes front and rear. Does the rear centre channel on yours have the spacer plate welded in between it and the trailer frame same as the side ones?

I couldn't find any other info about the tarps hole spacing so have just let John (Worthings) get on with it.

I would like to work out that strange lashing set up shown on the side of the trailer in your illustration though.

Hi Folks,

Anybody got the rear view for this GS no2 trailer diagram? or a photo of one?

Mine is identical (including the hitch) except that it has a rear tailgate opening instead of front. I am trying to see if this was original or done when it was overhauled in 52. There is no evidence of a rear central stave being removed at the back of the trailer, so am trying to see if this design had one.

My front staves have the 2 holes for the locking posts on the gate to go through, so all very confusing, and I am about to make a final decision on placement of the gate.

Also anyone know how the lashing of the canvas top is done, it appears to use the corner hoops on the bottom of the frame in Tony's diagram, but it is obscured in the picture.

Finally, does anyone know what the correct abbreviated data plate lettering would be for a 'Reynolds' built trailer? ie OE for Orme Evans.

Cheers,

Sean

Having got part way through the dismantling of the hubs on the mortar trailer, I have found this on the back of it. Is this common to your trailers or is it proof of the maker of my trailer?

Very interesting photos Tony. Was the woodwork tongue and grooved on the sides and floor,and how was the flooring fixed to the chassis? Mine has half round steel rods running along the joints that then are bolted through onto the chassis. My floor boards seem a lot wider too, but still odd widths.

Sean.

PS I have also just discovered my wheels are mis-matched, so I need a 600-16 wheel if anyone has one they don't need!

Also could anyone tell me if the Avon Traction tyres as seen on series Landrovers were around during the war?

Thanks for the contact Artifficer, will look them up!!!

Yes, I think I probably will find somewhere , but probably not too local. South London doesn't have much left in small engineering shops in comparison to the Midlands, which is still renowned for its engineering industry. We here in Lewisham on the other hand, are now recognised as an international centre for crippled chicken fast food stores and drive by shootings. If you were to ask a local about getting your nuts threaded round here, you may well end up in casualty!

It may take a little longer to search out, but will carry on, as you say its all part of the fun!

Cheers,

Sean

Ok see that now, still haven't got the hubs apart, so assumed the landy studs would be ok, doh!!!. Looks like I will need the stud and nut making up as you suggested, if you have a contact number for the place that did yours I would appreciate it if you pass it on.

Cheers,

Sean

Thats great info Tony thankyou, just looked at the website, looks like it will do the job. I wonder if someone has already done this on the hubs and thats resulted in the different nut sizes on mine?

Cheers

Sean

Not so sunny Brockley...

Thanks Simon, that gives me hope! I have now managed to loosen the rest of the wheel nuts except for one that is still resiting all efforts. Strangely some of the nuts are smaller than the rest?? Was this the same on yours?

Do you have a contact number for the machine shop you used? Unfortunately South London isn't awash with them! I could always post stuff to them etc.

One other question, the long brake linkage rods on your trailer, are they round section steel? Mine are so rusted I can't tell!

Thanks again for the help!

Sean.

Aaargh, just trying to get the wheels off the mortar trailer, and the first nut I have tried to undo has sheered off! I have left the rest as most of them are in a similar condition. I have had to cut off most of the nuts and bolts on the trailer as they are badly siezed and corroded. What are my options? Will I need a new hub/s if so what sort?!

Cheers,

Sean

Simon, my mortar trailer has 31" inch support legs with a disc welded into the top to stop water entry. Mine are the screw clamp version one of which is siezed up, I have now got it off the frame and found it is open at the back of the casting. It was full of rusty mud!! Am now trying to soak it apart.

Thanks Graham,

I have to say I think this was my one big 'find', if you know what I mean.

As you say it is incredible these historic items are still out there.

I have to say I was virtually speechless when I saw it!

Hi folks,

Yes I know it doesn't have wheels but I have recently got hold of a Piat and I thought you might be able to help. It has been sitting in a barn for years and I am trying to find an original canvas webbing grip and shoulder pad cover. Repros are available( at a cost!), but look a bit new, especially if I try to retain the patina whilst getting rid of the rust! An old repro might do the trick!

I have the original ones from the weapon, but they are in a sad state as you can see, nibbled by mice etc.

These are unusual bits which you might possibly have knocking about, I'm also after the projectile ammo box or any other bits of Piat interest.

Out of interest, how many of you would re-spray the weapon? It is heavily rusted but with some paint still visible..Hmmm..

Thanks,

Sean

Just a quick question. One of the support legs on my trailer restoration is stuck tight. I have managed to get the lever moving ok, and the threaded pin it is on wobbles around, but I still can't get the leg to move up or down despite heat, wd40 for two weeks etc.

If I unbolt the casting and leg from the chassis can I get inside the clamp mechanism to free it from the back?

If not, any other suggestions?

Cheers,

Sean

Thanks folks, will be trying the above to get the trailer into shape. Your suggestions are much appreciated!

I am trying to find someone in SE London /N. Kent to sandblast my 10cwt Mortar trailer frame, and also a fabricator to make new front posts for it from the originals. I haven't had much success yet, so I thought it would be worth seeing if anyone had someone they new who are reasonably priced, reliable and good at the job. SE London seems to be lacking in professionals in the trade..

I did think a list of trades people involved in various aspects of restoration, in different areas of the country,

would be very useful to those of us who haven't got all the facilities at home.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Sean Walsh

I hope some of these photos showing detail on my trailer are of use.

First shows the half moon cut out on the hinge bracket.

The next two are of the catch parts which are located on the rear of the trailer, the small post has nut on the back to secure it. Is this common to rear opening trailers?

Here is another view of the towing hitch, is this specific to a manufacturer that any one knows of?

These two central posts are angle iron, unlike the other uprights which have a rounded pressed corner.

They also look much newer! They are welded on.

Detail of the fixing bracket for the mudguards

Next shows the two front corner posts, the left one has been altered/repaired with angle iron.

The right one shows the hole for the catch post to go through if the trailer had a front opening gate.

Some of the corrosion to trailer, it appears pretty bad and a local welder looked doubtful!

Those vertical brackets are on mine too, what are they for??

Corner hoop detail, with more rust....

Quick couple of questions for anyone who can advise me,

The wooden planking on all the sides of my trailer were T and G'ed is that usual?

Has anyone got the widths of the floor planking and how were they fixed? Were they T&G'ed too?

Well if anyone can definitely match these details to a makers name that would be great, at the moment Orme Evans seems to be possible, you may know better.....

Cheers,

Sean.

Hi David,

Just had another look at the ring diameter, I think you are right, a bit hard to get it dead on as I can't find my callipers though, as long as I can get it on the Jeep I'll be happy!

Here are a few more pics this time showing the interior, no holes, but some ageing marks on the wood planking. Has the woodwork already been replaced I wonder? There are a few square headed nuts on the wood fixings which I presume are not original.. if you had a couple of pics showing fixings at the tailgate etc that would be great reference.

There is also a line of moulding to the top edge of one level of the planks which runs all the around on all four sides including the tailgate, you can see this in pic 4. hmm..

I am now finding the areas of rot on the trailer ,I will post more pics and see what you think. I also have slightly different front vertical corner posts ...so some previous repair done on that I think.

As far as the the cleats go, I was looking at them today, I thought they were cast but not sure? I am going to take one off and try my local elderly hardware shop owner first, see if he's got any under the counter, you never know!

By the way who would be recommended for the canvas cover, I spoke to John at Worthings and he wasn't too familiar with these trailers and is also extremely busy, eta after War and Peace.

Cheers,

Sean

Hello fellas,

Just measured the interior diameter of the hitch ring and it looks like 2 3/4" inches..