jack neville

I agree; It is a real pleasure to follow this outstanding restoration projects on here. I only wish I had the time and the ability to do the same! You must have had a good 'teacher' if you are not in the auto crash repair business already.

No formal qualifications or training but plenty of tips and advise from the many people you meet over the years in this hobby. The comraderie of military vehicle restorers always means people prepared to share their knowledge and help others. And then you just need to have a crack.

FANASTIC WORK... being a complete sheet metal novice ...just wondered how did you form the curved lip round each wheel arch without it buckling/rippling as you go round ? Many thanks for any tips.....

Andy, if you go back to post 135 you will see I cut two pieces of 20mm form ply the desired shape. These were tightly clamped each side of the panel. It is then simply a matter of tapping gently all the way around the circumference just slowly stretching the panel bit by bit. I used a nylon hammer to minimise bruising the sheetmetal. If you hit too hard in any one spot you can over stretch and tear the panel. It is all about taking time to work it slowly. Each guard took about and hour. You can do an awful lot of panel work with pieces of angle iron,flat steel, and a lot of clamps. I find a swivel vice mounted on a pedestal that you can work all around much more versatile than any bench. These methods I find are more accurate and versiitile than folders. Lots of small folds can be done with pliers. Everything then needs finishing off with a panel hammer and dolly. Cold rolled panel steel is very malleable and designed to work like this.

Sounds like you have a parts truck Mike.

I have only just completed two full sets of Luvax dampers for two Morris Tilly's. Total strip down and reassembly. A bit fiddly but simple enough. You will need a press.

Excuse my lack of knowledge...just wondered how the "few heat shrinks" thing works ? I thought heat expanded and distorted metal ??? would love to learn the skills you have....amazing !!!

If you have an area of sheet metal that is stretched or bulged as I found when putting this floor back in, you can shrink the metal. Apply heat to a spot where the bulge is obvious. This will cause as you say the metal in that spot to expand and bulge up in the area that is red hot. Whilst it is red hot, hammer and dolly that bulge down flat. You need to act quickly and it is easier to have an assistant use the torch. As you get it hammered flat quickly quench that area with a wet rag and this will cause the metal to contract and shrink. You might need to do a few shrinks to get the area tight as evidenced by the hot spots seen on the floor. You can also get stainless steel discs for use in an angle grinder to achieve a similar effect whereby you use friction from the disc and a water spray bottle rather than a hammer and dolly and torch.

Thanks Sam. The truck is largely complete and I have most parts. It was a wrecker, early one of which only 507 were made apparently. It will be restored as a cargo as I have none of the wrecker gear. If I can't find a NOS gauge it might be able to be rebuilt hopefully. I've seen a few of these other early wreckers in Australia that had the early civvy gauges replaced with military gauges. The original larger holes were just blanked off and recut.

The running gear on mine appears intact and I have a complete changeover engine I got from Sam Winer in the States. It has a French rebuild plate dated 1962. The cab is rough but restorable and I have the remains of a timber body to rebuild. Just waiting to clear another project before I can begin. Need some of the glad hand fittings if you have them.

I have a 1941 Diamond T 969 to restore when I get a few other projects out of the way. In the meantime I am hunting down parts. This gauge has so far eluded me. It is the multi gauge for temperature, oil, fuel and amps. I haven't pulled this from the dash as yet so it may be able to be rebuilt but I am hoping someone may have a NOS gauge.

There is the Australian pattern Ford/Marmon Herrington No3 gun tractor and (3A with winch)

Hi Jack,

I was hoping this bearing would be listed in the wartime LV6MT7 vocab, but no, it would appear to be a special made for the Cam Gears steering box. Further research and I came up with something. Cam Gears Ltd now belong the TRW parts empire, so a search using 'TRW Cam Gears' found the site of a UK bearing supplier with a list of numbers for Cam Gears bearings, and 7712 and 8527 are shown. It is highly likely that these steering boxes or components of, were used in other manufacturers vehicles as well.

 

Here is the list of number; www.ahrinternational.com/oemnames/TRW_CAM_GEARS.shtml

 

and here is the home address for the bearing supplier, I suggest you contact their Technical Dept. as they are likely to be more helpful. www.ahrinternational.com

 

Best of luck.

 

regards, Richard

Thanks Richard. I have emailed them. Excellent work.

Jack

Thanks Richard,

Yes for the Tilly's. I have salvaged enough parts to complete one steering box except for the cam bearings. The second box needs a rocker shaft but i'm hoping the best shaft I have can be machined down a fraction to accommodate oversized bushes. The cam bearings are listed in the Tilly parts book as

Ball Cup (for cam) (Cam Gears 8527) Part # 37491

Ball Cage (with balls) (Cam Gears 7712) Part # 37490

I am surprised how hard some of the Morris parts are to find given how many of these cars must have been made. Any help appreciated.

Jack

Currently rebuilding the two steering boxes and need new worm bearings. Anyone have any idea of a source of new bearings. Had no luck on the internet so far.

Jack Neville

Jack;

I have both driver's and passenger window winders and interior door handles for the early trucks. They have your name on them. I have a decent hood, however, shipping could be expensive as I would have to crate it so it would not be crushed

 

I have a decent drivers door, no dents, but the bottom is rusted through. I will post a picture within the week.

 

John G

Thanks John.

i will take the inner handles and winders. I have good doors but the outer left handle is broken in half. They are the curvy types. Cancell the hood. I think the freight cost will be prohibitive and I can channel that money into repairing mine I think. Any of the Gladhand air fittings I will take that you have as well as any gauges. I also need the steering column mounting bracket. My truck is converted to right hand drive and that bracket is missing an a foreign bracket fitted. I want to return it to LHD. You can contact me at

madness20241@hotmail.com

thanks

Jack

John,

I have an early 969 hardcab with the civvy gauges.

Looking for

- left door handle.

- early style guages

- a good solid hood (mine is riddled with rust)

- inner door handles and window winders

- auxilary air fittings

Regards

Jack

All;

 

I just acquired a 969A and 968, both closed cabs. Lots of good parts. I think Gordon was looking for a roof ventilator?

 

Let me know

 

John G

Did anyone ever get these?

Glen,

just reading this thread for the first time. Did you get your troubles sorted? I have a WOT2H in Australia that gets driven regularly on hot days. It is fitted with a Jolley Engineering electronic ignition set up and an electric fuel pump hidden under the floor. I don't use thermostats in Australia on this engine. It gets hot around my feet obviously due to the poor air flow around the engine but the engine doesn't overheat even on hot days. The radiator is original. Just wondering how you got on.

jack

The chassis number as supplied just now from the seller is PH2 15999-11487

What does that reveal gentlemen?

The radiator side panels show it is post WW1. These have the mountings bolted from the sides to the chassis where as the WW1 Leylands have the radiator mounted on round sections extending out from the bottom tank. The radiator is also taller than the latter model.

The brass plate with unit number is common in identifying larger parts; diff, front axle and gearbox.

Along the front cross member will be stamped numbers indicating model, chassis number and works number.

Leyland( along with many other manufacturers) exported an large number of trucks in the early to mid 20's. As a result there are plenty of parts about. ( When I say plenty they are much more common then finding parts for pre 1920 Leylands.)

Doug:-)

I was interested in bidding on this truck but not if it is not WW1 as advertised. Your informed opinion would be that it is NOT of WW1 era. Is that correct?

JuSt signing in after a small absence.