Ken Wales

Thanks for that. Unfortunately confirms my thoughts probably a fake. I was just hoping.

ken

Many thanks

Please see photos. I am presuming fake but I do not know. Purchased at auction a long time ago.

Tim

short term storage available at Caboolture airfield.

ken

Another vote for Bob Grundy.

Trying t make it easier for myself I was considering topping oil up in hubs by using Hub level plug but after several readings of the user handbook realise that you should top up from the filler plug until it flows from the outer plug. Then keep topping up until oil flows from inner plug.

How much additional oil would that take rather than just using outer plugs?

Is there any problem in only using outer plug and just giving a bit extra.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Thanks for great information

I named my Ferret Ruby in go honour of my mum. It is also middle name of one of my twins, the other twin has middle name of my mother in law.

CPL and Instructor rating training in Cessna 172, 210, Piper Cub and joy flights in a Tiger Moth. Own an Auster which does not fly very much.

Even worse than the chrome Ferret.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/endeavour-hills/cars-vans-utes/daimler-ferret-scout-car-army-vehicle-for-sale/1017008127

dont use choke ! 3/4 pumps of acc pedal then should start check see if accelerator pumps on carb are working take carb intake off with pump of pedal is there two cleans sprays of fuel? i dont try to drive mine until engine temp at least 160 f is the fuel pump working correctly ?have u put volt meter on batts when fsc running at 800 rpm ? when starting mine down to minus 1 centigrade i use no choke.

Tried pumping acc and no choke started well.

Voltage when running 28V.

Hope it starts well Thursday as Ferret in ANZAC parade.

Many thanks for comments/advice. Perhaps I should have said once running it is all OK. Therefore I assume that would exclude electrical problems such as condenser???

When starting from cold (please note I am in Queensland Australia so never that cold) using first stage of choke. Ferret starts on first attempt and then quickly dies. Trying to start it after that is very difficult, best to leave it and come back in a few minutes. It seems to me that there is a combustible mixture left from previous drive which gives initial start and then there is not sufficient combustible mixture to keep it running.

I have developed a technique of spraying engine start (called start ya bastard) into the air intake air intake with accelerator pressed down and choke closed, I then select second stage of choke and Ferret fires up nicely, I then push the choke back in stages and have Ferret running at a tick over around 800 and I let it warm up for a few minutes. All good so far but when I select a gear and put the engine under load it dies and sometimes stalls. I have tried increasing revs using hand throttle but still seems to be problem. I have to be careful as I am reversing down a shallow ramp from garage into street. Only idea which seems to work is leave the choke out one stage.

If the engine stops and I try to restart it straight away it will not start. If I leave it a few minutes no problem, no choke just starts.

It seems to me

1. When cold the limited combustible material will not keep it running.

2. When won’t start after running (short or long time) (hot or warm) it is probably flooded.

Any ideas or thoughts would be much appreciated.

· I think I should not have to use my starting technique.

· Stopping the stalling when putting under load.

· Not restarting after stalling or once it has been run.

Re batteries what voltage should I get from voltmeter if batteries good, I would have thought over 24 volts but I am only getting just under 23.50 volts even after charging? I use the socket above the inter vehicle socket to plug voltmeter in.

Thanks in anticipation

Not four but five, Ferret awaiting new tyres including spare. Local garage could not remove tyres off rims so they had to go to a Lorry Tyre fitter.

I had a Mk1/2 when I was in UK but really wanted a Mk2. Now in Australia I have a Mk 2/3 and a non runner Mk 1 (very poor condition and will not be rebuilt by me. I still prefer the Mk2 but am getting older and getting in will one day be a problem. Then I may take the turret off to get a few more years of fun.

One of my most weirdest jobs was when I was a pigman, I used to collect boar semen. It was actually really rather interesting :-D I would bore people to death with all the facts and figures of boar semen, temperature it should be kept at, the direction it should be swimming, the volume etc etc :blush:

 

- no jokes OK!

When I was working in Lloyd's I used to underwrite Bloodstock and Livestock insurance and one the areas of coverage was Bull Infertility. When we had a potential claim we had a consultant vet who would go and inspect the bull and write us a report. As he was also a Batchelor of Literature his reports were a joy to read with all the problems the bulls had with such as corkscrew penis. I will always remember one report where the bull had that problem and he put in the report if the cow had a **** as big as the Dartford Tunnel he still could not get the cow in calf.

Retired from insurance, originally in Lloyd's then emigrated to Australia still in insurance. Now retired I work!! as flying instructor in Cessna 172's etc and joy flights in a tiger moth.

Insurance policies can vary a great deal in the coverage they give. Price is not everything. Unfortunately it is extremely difficult to compare policies even for someone who is used to looking at wordings. Probably not a very useful post except to say be careful in what you buy.

That's a fair point, something I'll look into, another question that I'm not has been covered in other posts, what's meant by J60 A2 spec, what's change from the stock J60

Good to know about the wilthams thing as I might need to get spares from them, in regards to the container I think I might have to go the RoRo option due to the fact that I'll need to get it off the boat the get it to the engineers to go over it before I take it to get registered and don't really know what to do with the container in the meantime and considering I like 1600kms from wher the engineer is I think I may have trouble getting the container unloaded at my joint as I live rather remote, I have a friend that might be able to throw it on a trailer and drive to to my joint as is

With my Ferret it was unloaded from container at Brisbane and agent organised a tilt tray to deliver.

Not a tracked vehicle but I imported a Ferret into Queensland. I can reccomend Bob Grundy as I purchased Ferret from him and all went smoothly from his end. I employed an agent in Brisbane which cost but worth while.I needed to get approval from Queensland police re any arnaments, no problem with them. Then approval from Customs Canberra who got excited re grenade launchers and insisted they were cut and welded. Once here I had a LO2 inspection and a roadworthy no problem. Registering inQueensland was a problem as they did not want to register it-but after argument they eventually agreed. Very important to have very clean vehicle as Quarantine can be an issue. Please ring me if you want to discuss.

Mod Edit: Telephone number removed, Scammers trawl forums for contact details. PM Ken for contact details.

I have tried to get some EP 90 oil for my Ferret and have been to a few car places here in Australia. I have seen 85/90 EP oil but it is specification GL5 but I have gained impression from searching web I should really obtain a GL4 specification oil as GL5 specification can cause problems to yellow metal (is there any yellow metal in the transfer box and bevel Boxes). Can I use GL5 specification oil? The only GL4 specification oil I have seen is 80 and I am not sure whether it is EP.

Help and advice please.

Thanks, with new charger from E Bay charged batteries in situ and just been for a run. Winter here and currently only 18 degrees b****y cold for us in Queensland.

I had exactly that problem, and I think it was Richard or Clive told me it was master cylinder....like you say, walk away and its all fine, a few hours later the brake lights are on.

Swapped the master cylinder out and all was good.

 

As for charging, there have been quite a few interstart cables for sale, and you can get them espacially cheap if one end is damaged/missing...ideal for putting some connectors on?

Anyone have a cable with plug for sale if so please advise cost including postage to Australia ? My normal spares supplier in Australia does have one but is currently away until end of July.

Thanks guys for good info. Batteries about 1.5 years old and ferret not started for a month. I was surprised that battery was so flat. I was aware of interior light problem and they were fully off but understand they still can draw power. If you remove bulb presume that stops any draw down.

Ken if you charge via the inspection light sockets you are charging via a 30A circuit breaker. Might be ok as a trickle charge point, but best to go direct to batteries via start socket.

Thanks for that. Problem is I do not have a plug for starter socket. Battery charger I was thinking of using was a 12/24 charger that can put out 55amps but in normal mode puts out 28 amps at charging mode 12v not sure what amps would be at 24v. Does that therefore mean if I do the normal charging mode it would be ok(albeit not preferred) via the lighting socket.

What would happen if it does trip breaker, will it damage anything, would circuit breaker reset?