Andrew S

Hi Skip,

i was the former owner of 06CC12. Pm me your email and would be glad to share any info I have.

i did confirm directly with QRIH that 06cc12 served with them in Borneo. There are several photos from that tour that were published in the QRIH regimental magazine which I think I have a copy of somewhere. I also corresponded with one of the drivers from the same squadron.

cheers,

Andrew

I have a spare solex 40 nnip carb. I am in the USA so postage may be pricey. It needs rebuilt but body is fine. Was removed from a Ferret.

let me know if u need.

Cheers,

andrew

If you keep the original Ferret ignition coil then yes with the electronic ignition the coil would need the original ballast resistors in circuit so the coil runs on 12v. However if you use a new matched coil from Frank Jolley you need to bypass the original ballast resistors and u use a small resistor Frank includes with the coil.

Cheers,

Andrew

I ran the same fuel test and that is about the amount of fuel I got on mine so looks ok to me. I would replace all spark plug wires and the ignition oil wire and definitely would replace the condenser. You need to get a brand new condenser and adapt the mount to fit. The Nos b60 condensers can go bad on the shelf.

Cheers,

Andrew

Rustoleum matte nickel paint matches the colour well. Not fireproof though.

Yes, the airfix SLR. Wish I still had it!

I was lucky to have a Johnny 7 as well as the black plastic FN FAL (SLR ). Great toys as a kid!

Could this be specs to build boxes to transport clover as a food supply for cattle for the Army Service Corps (ASC)?

Cheers,

Andrew

Welcome, to a fellow ferret owner!Cheers,Andrew

 

Did you try Tim Vibert? I think I saw some on his site a while back. Would be worth emailing him.

http://www.timvibert.com.au/index.php?page_id=155&category_id=116&category_linktext=Ferret

 

Did you try Tim Vibert? I think I saw some on his site a while back. Would be worth emailing him.

I have used Tony' s sticky backed stencils for small letter stuff . I found if I tried to paint in 1 go it would seep under the edges . Spraying a few very light coats and allowing a few minutes to dry in between worked great.

Having looked into all this I have decided to use a switch disconnect on the neg ground battery & mount it on the battery box. To do this I am changing out my battery cables & using ring connectors on the new cables to make the connections easy.( also cables are old & could use replacing.)

 

2 questions:

1. What gauge wire do you guys use in a ferret? Looks to me like 2 ga or maybe 1/0.

2.The positive cable hooks onto the inter vehicle connector box area with what looks like a proprietary connection. I don't want to break it investigating how it connects. Can anyone tell me how it comes apart & what the connection looks like? Also does anyone sell connectors to replace?

Thanks,Andrew

 

I would second the method used by Chris, from memory that is exactly how we have done ours, it did pain me to drill the two securing holes, as it goes against my credo. Added anti theft value as stated.R

Sounds like a good idea. To get my ground wire to connect to the switch I need a ring terminal. With that in mind it might be worth just replacing the ground cable with a new one ( maybe also replace the other cables too.) couple of related questions:Where does the ground cable attach to the hull? Is it easy to get to to remove?What guage cable is best maybe 2/0 or is that too thick?Where does the cable from the drivers left battery positive terminal attach? Would this be easy to replace?I did find a similar switch that does not look like drilling is needed:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017101BE/ref=cm_cr_asin_lnk

 

Get a key type disconnect, stick it through one of the holes in the battery box. You will need to drill 2 holes for the bolts and buy a couple of short leads to connect it up. I've had one on mine for 10 years and never had a problem.Chris

Quick question. How do you connect from the battery cable to the post on the switch. Mine is quite thick cable & looks like it would be hard connect to a ring type connection.

I have a Daimler Ferret. I have used a green knob type battery disconnect ( on negative ground terminal ) but it occasionally will arc if not screwed down tight. I am looking at a blade type disconnect which will give a better gap when disconnected. The specs on the blade disconnect are 125amp continuous and 375amp surge. Anyone have any idea if this would be sufficient for electrical demands of a ferret? I only need power for engine, lights , intercom but have no radios etc.Cheers,Andrew

 

Hi Andrew, Ross hear. Your Ferret looks fantastic! Are they 101 tires you have on there?, looks well!The white line is just so you can see the 'wind up'. You can line them up with the oil filler if you want but its a lot of work (undoing the prop shafts). If it were me i would just give it a drive on some wet grass, mud, or gravel, then mark it up. Any time the two lines dont match up after that, then a quick spin on the gravel will do the trick.Regards Ross

Hi Ross,The tires are STA USA TIRES I bought from Wallace Wade. NDT pattern 900x16. They work great. Not too expensive. Your advice re wind up sound spot on. I will try that.Cheers,Andrew

 

Andrew, How come your Deact .30" Cal Mg has got no internals? :undecided:

The Browning mg is made from a parts kit. The receiver side plate is made to comply with us regulations to make it a non gun. The barrel inside the shroud is actually plastic which reduces weight & makes it easier to take the mg out when necessary. The rest of the internals were not really needed & not having them makes it easier to show it is not functional. I do have all the parts and the original barrel so if I bought a semi auto side plate I could have it made into a functioning semi auto gun. I can open the breech and " load" a belt of 308 ammo for display. On a side note I do have a really nice L1a1 SLR rifle that is functional. It is a 1963 enfield version that I had built from parts on a DSA " inch pattern" L1a1 receiver. Shoots great.

No I am sure the wheels are ok. I am going to remove the tape as it is not helpful anyway.

Picasso is a program free from google that has good photo resize and editing features. Also does face recognition.

I used 900 x16 NDT pattern tyres on mine & they work great. Much smoother ride than the old run flats.

Glad u like the photos. Btw the grenade box to right of driver is my addition. I made a bracket to hold it. I had an extra grenade box and figured more grenades couldn't hurt! I am planning on adding a splinter screen holder for spare splinter screen, document box and if I can find I will add sten mag box and angled ammo box.Cheers,Andrew

 

 

A few interior pics from my Ferret. The MG mount is a converted GPMG mount. The ammo can holder is reproduction. The bent portion is part I bent out of the way am going to cut off and make flush as it was too much a hazard to the commander's face (my son) on a quick stop & is not functional anyway.

 

It doesn't matter if its in gear the wheels on one side will spin if both wheels on one side of the vehicle are jacked up. Sticking it in gear when jacking won't secure the vehicle from rolling backwards or forwards. That wasn't suggested I know but its safer to pop that one in.Block up the opposite side to the side you are going to jack up. Buy some nice big axle stands 6 tons if possible and buy good ones not the cheap copies that you see on ebay. Bought a pair of those ended up welding them up.You can jack the vehicle in-between the wheel stations or the area directly under the drivers feet and the area near the sump plug access holes. If you don't fancy axle stands railway sleepers cut to the width of you're Ferrets hull will suffice. Feels safer as well.

Andy,When you say between the wheel stations do you mean between the front and back on one side or between the 2 rear or 2 front stations?Thanks,Andrew

Btw thanks everyone for the positive comments on the paint job. I will post some interior pic soon as well.