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RAFBedfords

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Posts posted by RAFBedfords

  1. 1 minute ago, utt61 said:

    Hmm, good luck with your interpretation of the law surrounding "blues and twos". The only pitfall I can see is that you have concluded that a vehicle specifically built for the purpose of firefighting is the same thing as a vehicle used for "fire brigade purposes", when it is of course nothing of the kind.

    You will, I think, find that the term "fire brigades" is now considered to have been redefined to "fire and rescue authorities" (ref. the Fire and Rescue Services Act 2004), although this makes little difference in this case, it merely acknowledges that there is no longer such a thing as a "fire brigade".

    The key point is that to comply with the requirement of being used for fire brigade (or fire and rescue authority) purposes, the vehicle must be under the direction and engaged upon business of a fire brigade (or fire and rescue authority). It is, I suppose, possible that if you were a retained firefighter and you happened to be using you GG in connection with the fighting of a fire, you might have a leg upon which to stand. If however you are a member of the general public, driving a fine restored GG for an afternoon jolly or to or from a rally field, then I can see no conceivable way that you can make this claim.

    If this interpretation is correct, then sadly, since your entire argument is predicated upon your definition, the rest of your justification rather collapses.

    For the record I am no more a lawyer than you, and this is merely a counter-view to yours, It may be wrong, but it is, however, a widely held view. I did also several decades ago work with a cave rescue organisation which operated an ambulance, and do have experience of the use of blues and twos from that time and in that arena (in that case the vehicle was registered as an ambulance and could be run with lights and sirens, but could not exceed any speed limits nor ignore any traffic regulations since the drivers were not appropriately trained).

    Please do let us know how you get on when (or if) you first get "pulled" for having something that resembles a blue light whether illuminated or not.

    Great restoration, by the way, and it should be a beauty when you've finished.

    Hi mate, thanks for watching the video and taking the time to leave me a comment. You present a valid argument and I was not aware of the Fire and Rescue Services Act 2004, however the legislation covering blue lights and sirens still make use of the term Fire brigade purposes.

    Interesting to hear about your experience and I appreciate the debate. My GG is still registered as a Fire Engine so potentially I can delve into registration with the forestry commission and see if that could provide some top cover.

    I will be sure to let you know how I get on although hopefully I will never have cause to post about any experiences of being pulled over.

    Cheers mate, hope to see you pop up here again on some other videos. Best of luck.

  2. On 5/15/2020 at 5:47 PM, Richard Farrant said:

    Did you compare the length of the old filter to the new one? From the video, it looks like the new filter is shorter, if so not good as it will not seal against the top cover.

    It is in fact the same size and I’ve replaced the seal. I’ll keep an eye out bug so far no issues and I’ve given her a few drives. Cheers.

  3. On 5/10/2020 at 12:18 PM, Richard Farrant said:

    Here is a photo of the jack issued on military Bedford RL trucks, it is best to carry a wood block to put under it as well.

    The washer bottle needs to be upright which I am not sure can be done in the glovebox. As it is now would be the same as when it was used by the Armed Forces in latter years.

    Bedford Military Army Truck Lorry Ernest Lake 4 Ton Screw Jack - H ...

    Cheers Richard, I will get on Ebay and see if I can track an original down to stick in the restoration project.

  4. Just now, Richard Farrant said:

    Not sure if you are aware, but that pink antifreeze you are using is not suitable on older vehicles with copper radiators and copper head gaskets. You need the older type glycol antifreeze which is coloured blue or green.

    Hi there, thanks for the comment. The coolant I used is made from ethylene glycol although it is of course red. I find that the colouring system is rarely adhered to by content and more by the climate it’s designed for. Thanks thought, that could of been a messy error.

  5. 4 hours ago, DINGODOUG said:

    I had a similar problem with my Champ which had obviously overheated badly before I got it. The only cure ultimately was to take the head off and remove all drains and hoses and flush with a hose down every orifice I could fine until the water flowed freely and clearly. Same for the radiator which should free off ( try boiling water).

     

    Thanks for the tip. I spent just over 4 hours tinkering away on her and eventually settled with what I got, although it still wasn't coming out of the drain tap. I refilled her and after doing about 10 miles pushing her hard I checked the engine and it wasn't hot and then checked the drain pipe and success, all blockages cleared!

    I put it all in a video as part of my restoration series, feel free to check it out and subscribe if you are interested.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAWbiufISGA

     

  6. 6 minutes ago, mike30841 said:

    Try removing the bottom hose and see what you get out. If nothing, then the coolant has leaked out somewhere. If it's thick and rust coloured, then the chances are that the radiator core and the waterways in the block are at least partially blocked. Other possible reasons for the low temperature reading are stuck/faulty  thermostat, or again if the coolant has leaked out, then there's no hot water flowing round past the temperature sensor to give a higher reading.

    By bottom hose do you mean the short hose that goes from the heat exchanged beneath the radiatior to the main tap drain (about 40cm in length)? If the waterways are blocked, any idea on how I can clear the blockage?

  7. I thought that might be the issue so i used a bit of wire but no luck. I also removed the hose that runs to the main drain tap and it only had a small dribble, the water remained in the radiator. I also completely removed the cylinder head tap and cleared that but again nothing. I have taken out for around 20 miles over the past two days and the temperature gauge only heats up slightly (possibly failed) but the engine does not run hot. This beast takes around 30l of coolant but I just dont know why it is not draining and why it seems to also be stuck in the radiator?

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