Dan77

21 hours ago, andym said:

Early Mk.2s (and possibly Mk.1s?) have bolted windows, later Mk.2s didn't.  All should have had swim boards, the degree to which they've been removed depends on who did the removing when it was decided that Stollies no longer needed to swim.

Andy

Thank Andy

7 minutes ago, ploughman said:

Have you forgotten something?

Or was the journey in a snowstorm?

5 minutes ago, ploughman said:

Have you forgotten something?

Or was the journey in a snowstorm?

Amusing,   It was previously there.  I’ll have to find the image again. 

may be a silly question but.....

why do some stollies have bolts around the cab windows and some not?  Some also have the swim board fittings and some not?   Have these been removed during the life of through refurbishment or are these some variant?

dan

On 8/25/2018 at 8:54 AM, bigwill said:

all still for sale, there was a lot of talk but got no further. then work got in the way. happy to discuss message me and I will give you my number and we can discuss. 

Hi, I’m interested in your stalwart if it’s still available.  Could collect within a few days.  

Dan

Another quick picture of her journey from the island.  

2 hours ago, matchlesswdg3 said:

Hope the PO stashed a bottle of malt under the dash!  You may need it!

I think you might be right. 

8 minutes ago, Tarland said:

I presume you had a slipway to recieve the landing craft at the other end and the tractor to push the stolly off?

They did indeed.   It’s now on a low loader travelling to our workshops in Warrington so should arrive some time tomorrow.  

1 minute ago, Tarland said:

Is that going off the island or coming ashore on the mainland?

Made a bit of a mess of the beach.....

It’s coming off the island.  The mass of equipment being landed on the island has done that to the beach.  

Post removed

25 minutes ago, lowfat said:

You take the shaft joining muff which is about 4 inches long. Machine the splines away for about 1 inch. So you end up with 3 inches of the 4 inch tube or muff with splines and 1 inch nice and smooth. It’s this smooth part of the tube which no longer drives anything but supports the shaft when you slide the muff to disengage drive. That’s the theory. 

Thanks for that. I see what you mean now. Doesn’t it need To turn in a bearing?  One other thing I can’t get my head around is how it syncs up on re-engagement?  Sorry for all the silly questions.   

10 hours ago, 101 Ron said:

Three Known Stalwarts in Australia and only one so far with the disconnects and gear ratio changes.

The shafts as mentioned are super heavy, but to support them requires a split type ,self aligning bearing as the shaft is smaller than the splines on the muff couplings either end.

That bearing is extremely expensive.

Everyone who has done it has used the standard ( modified) muff coupling as the clutch and it also supports the weight of the shaft.

It is not ideal, but it works.

The coupling is usually moved by air, but has also been done by cable.

Plan to fit couplings in time my self using the best ideas from people who have aready done it.

driving a Stalwart on a hard surface goes poorly.

driving a Stalwart on muddy surfaces becomes alive performance wise.

seeing the 60 mph stalwart go and the distances it drives regularly in Australia without trouble , it is a worth while conversion.

Thanks about the comments about my humble site.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/118657-ultimate-fc.html

Ron

Hi Ron,

Reading your posts about restoring your stolly was the inspiration for me to buy mine, after wanting one for 25 years. I really enjoyed reading it  

You’ll have to excuse my ignorance, but would  you mind explaing (without going to too much trouble) how the disconnect happens in the muff coupling as that seems much better than what I was thinking but I don’t quite understand it?

thanks in advance Ron

Dan 

2 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

I only know of two Stalwarts in Australia and only one has disconnects, although I cannot recollect the method used. The owner has also changed the transfer box gear ratio and can achieve a road speed of 60mph.

I think I read about this somewhere. The other guy with the stolly posted his restoration process on a forum.  I take my hat off to him after reading it.  

On 8/13/2018 at 4:35 PM, matchlesswdg3 said:

Well done, Dan!  Best of luck with the project......they are nice bits of kit.

Thanks,  I think I’ll need it with this one.  

23 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

Cable operated is another option.

23 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

Cable operated is another option.

There are quite a few cable and lever op disconnects on the market. The Americans seem to fit them to their 4 wheelers.  They’re round about 400 dollars. 

2 hours ago, Grasshopper said:

There are stollys about in the UK which have had disconnects fitted, but what and how I have no idea! 

2 hours ago, Grasshopper said:

There are stollys about in the UK which have had disconnects fitted, but what and how I have no idea! 

I have been thinking about this a lot. A dog clutch arrangement  with the shaft held by a bearing each side would work.  But it would Be nice to have the disconnect remote so you don’t have to crawl under the load deck.  Perhaps a take off from the air somewhere would do it.  

4 hours ago, lowfat said:

Well its been 4 years in my care. I have been picking things up as I go. Im in no rush just looks worse than it is. I have been told by people who have done the  repair before its about 40 hours for a skilled welder. It would be good to get the panels done. the spannering it needs is a walk in the park then.

4 hours ago, lowfat said:

Well its been 4 years in my care. I have been picking things up as I go. Im in no rush just looks worse than it is. I have been told by people who have done the  repair before its about 40 hours for a skilled welder. It would be good to get the panels done. the spannering it needs is a walk in the park then.

No problem when I make mine, I’ll make a set for you.    If  there’s anything else you neee let me know.  We large metal plant rooms and shipping containers at work so the hull and body isn’t too daunting.  It’s the mechanical that has me a little worried.   

4 hours ago, daleheywoodtanks said:

Well done, and good on ya !

If i can be of any help let me know

Thank you very much.  

1 hour ago, Tarland said:

Dan,

It would good to see pics of the recovery process....or would that be tempting fate?

Is it running condition?

Unfortunately not at the moment.   I think the engine will be ok but the linkages and dives might have suffered a bit.  

2 hours ago, justinb said:

Brilliant , glad it’s being saved ,

just about got mine sorted now , just need to find or make the swim steering levers in the cab and finish swapping the seals .

I could probably make you a set if you get stuck.   She looks amazing by the way.  

3 hours ago, lowfat said:

My spare stolly is currently on life support while it may be terminal I suspect major decorroding could save its life.

It needs new metal over the wheels both sides the full length of the load bay.. I suspect you will be carrying out similar surgery.

I don't have access to the equipment you appear to . 

I would be interested ina set . If your folding up 1 set could you fold me one at the same time?

I’d be happy too. Will you need the bits quickly?

Dan

Hi, 

I’m from Manchester but i will keep it in Warrington at work.   To be honest, this stolly is pretty far gone but I just can’t let it be broken for spares.  

This was her when she was pristine, used to ferry goods to the island.  The new owner of the island kindly tooj this for me. 

Hi All,

The good news is, this old girl is to be saved.  

I have bought her and we are taking it off the island this month.   This will be my second stolly.

As you’ve said, the environment has taken its toll on her but I have access to a large CNC machine and sheet metal shop at work so we should have the rot taken care of pretty quickly.   

I’m still a novice at all this so any advice would be greatly received.

Dan