Espressodude

stuff called naval jelly..is weak phosphoric acid in gell format works well, but rinse quickly.

Also oven cleaner

almost any combination is possible:

stainless body - stainless shank/mandrel

steel body - steel shank

aluminum body - aluminum shank

aluminum body - steel shank

I have some of all the above in my bins....

Mudguards were asked about earlier, and they are one of the things that make a Scammell "special"....These are not exactly mil-spec, but they do complement the model....

Bright shiny brass, hammered into arcs, smoothed and polished.....

Also new temporary (paper) Scammel badges. and darn, the radiator cap isn't in the pic: .22 rimfire shell

that's quite the clubhouse...must have been built on a government contract, designed by an architect.

On our boat we have zincs on the prop shaft and all metal is bonded.

When in moorage for a while we toss a bonded large plate zinc off the stern to hang in the water to provide additional surface area. In most moorages it stays a dull color, but in some moorages it is bright and crystally (sp?) looking when we haul up... We find this in moorages with live-aboards. Likely bad wiring practices as described earlier. Time to move on.

Found out Catweasel's girlfriend really likes Scammells too!

Found her down in the bunker oggling the Explorer:

Been kinda quiet these last few days in "The BatCave, aka Bruce's Bunker" (sign over workshop door)

Have the mixed breed 6 cylinder diesel engine in place. Not as much fun to guess what kind it is as Catweasel's Paris Hilton Headgasket.....

Also a couple days making new spindle hubs for the front axle with mounting holes(M2 thread) for the mud guard supports. Two bolts partially inserted..

Also notice the pintle hitch on the front bumper; matching hitch on the back. NEW: the headlights tucked into the bumper......the tires rubbed on the back of them at full articulation and steer.

Mudguards and supports next..

A shade whilst having a roadside tea and crumpets(strumpets)???:rofl:

Earlier comment about marine/boats...Almost all boats in US have disconect on the + hot side. Many disconnects also have an alternator disconnect as an attempt to save the alternator if the switch is opened. It is general practice to put (rubber) covers on the battery cables to prevent the dropped spanner syndrome. I have seen disconnects placed in both battery leads to totally isolate the battery.

Most disconnects do not have a wiping action of the contacts, just straight on push the contacts together, and hence do not wipe any corrosion build up from them. I have had to disassemble and clean contacts in order to start.:coffee:

The logic sounds similar to the familiar hydraulic power steering, but they usually have the steering input torque sensing valve and the hydraulic assist pistons all in one casting.

"Power Steering System with a serious ATTITUDE PROBLEM"

The driver just has to have more ATTITUDE than the Steering System!!

Can't be sure Daz, as I ain't seen it for a while, but I suspect it holds extra air for the steering when shunting about a lot at low engine revs, the original compressor can't cope. I had one fitted once and it was very useful, not needed now with the Cummins compressor.

 

All engineering on Amos's and his dad Mike's Scammells (they've got a few) is high standard stuff.

Air assisted power steering??:confused: I thought the steering box was big and had a lot of plumbing. More used to seeing hydraulic assist power steering with only two hoses. These Scammells are stranger than I thought:)

May have to visit the Queen and see some of these in real time.

quick search of the British Intellectual Property Office show 5929 results for this number. Adding either Wild, or Scammell, or winch, made a huge number of results...too many to reduce

In Canada it is for chemicals, and in USA it is for a Boiler (1894)

There is a coating intended for use inside of motorcycle fuel tanks that is a sealer. Some of the custom Harley tanks and (even factory ones) are welded up formed sections. To close up pin-hole leaks, the coating is poured into the tank and the tanked tuned every which way to coat the inside.

Something to look into.

Also keeping the tank full minimizes air and thus condensation. There is an additive for diesel to prevent the moisture from settling out and rusting out the tanks from the inside.

Now if you are mud-bogging all the time, there's outside rust issues. There is a marine coal-tar epoxy that is used for steel hulls and iron keels that is somewhat compliant and doesn't chip/flake. It would work well on the outside, but fuel resistance would need to be explored for inside use.

4 hours left of 2008 here on the upper left coast of USA......

4.......

3.....

2...

1..

:59

:58

and so on

:yay:

HAPPY NEW YEAR

I want to do the front mud guards, but have to make new front spindle assemblies. I used Tamiya model hubs for those and they do not have any place to attach the mud guard/fender brackets.

Next projects will likely be finishing my second .50 cal M2HB model, and some upgrades on the 37mm spud-gun. When I made the first M2HB, I made some parts for a second one. The 37mm needs it's gas supply reworked from manual to solenoid control for better gas mixing.

Snatch blocks: Couple high speed Skookum blocks and some low speed brand x. Scale blocks are on the rear storage door (get out the magnifying glass)

Oh, no...I would not paint the metal or the already varnished wood.... It's almost a crime to paint brass.

The only paint would be on the ABS parts that are now painted semi-flat black. The ABS plastic is black to start with.. Except for the fuel tank and driver's side track bin, the rest of the body lifts off and is easy to paint, at least until the windshield gets glued in place.

I don't know about real full sized vehicles, but the main winch can lift the rear of the Explorer or a 2 pound hammer. That "cable" is fly-fishing line with a lot of stretch and the winch is geared real low, so I ran out of patience before the winch stalled. :coffee:

Winch servo motor is rated 44 inch-oz torque, worm geared about 30:1 driving a 1/2" winch spool inner dia. Something like 5000 ounces pull:readbook:(theoretical zero friction).

...Where is that mini:help: in the ditch?? .....

More details from the underground bunker...aka Bat Cave:

It's been a holiday in the shop, lots accomplished

Engine cover/hood skirts, or are they bonnet ruffles in U.K.?

The louvers are a lot of fiddling to make,...grrrrr...

Front Roller Fairlead

Rear Roller Fairleads

Boom and Upper Winch with r/c Servo motor

Still some details left like the rear diffo cover, rear bumper, and pintle hitches to fabricate, then maybe some camo paint on the cab.

Engine block is underway..probably a Rolls/Meadows/Cummins/Cat crossbreed once the manifolds and accessories get on it.

Neil: Must have been a while since apprenticeship, otherwise you would have brought up using a SHRINK RULER for measurements....even though the resin probably doesn't shrink much.

OKAY gang: Here is the Scammell doing some exploring in the snow:

On top of the ice

Over a snow drift

Crawling along

In a deep hole Left front tire buried, weight on the fuel tank. Unable to go forward but could back out.

Snowed up after some fun.

Priced some canvas work once, and priced the canvas fabric.

With the discount that the shops get, then add their labor; it was within a few percent of buying only the fabric..

Always wanted to go onto a sewing forum and start a new thread!!!

 

Anyone else got any forum jokes?

There is an industrial sewing machine in my basement..I use it to do tents/awnings, leather, uniforms...

so is this the threat of a new thread?? Polyester or silk thread??

Been a few days whittling in the woodshop, making some oak boxes for the bed. Not final detailed yet, but here are a few pics of work in progress.

sorry about the size, I did resize them to 600 x 800, but must have uploaded the wrong ones. The hosting site is a pain to use, so here they are....

Thanks again.

Those ought to keep me busy for a while.

next couple questions:

How wide/deep are the wood storage boxes on the bed? Do they extend inward from the lip of the bed to the outer edge of the boom uprights/frame rails? ( same distance that the bed is wider than the frame?)

How are the 2 lids of the left(passenger) boxes attached/located? Are they hinged on the inside so the contents are accessible from outside the bed, or hinged outboard so that they are accessable from the center of the bed?

I am currently making these parts out of some 1/8" x 1/2" red oak boards that I made. I skipped the tongue & groove detail.

We had some snow over the weekend but it was dry and very windy. It blew away before I had a chance to do some off roading.....more snow forecast though. This morning was 17f