MainlyMilitary

Worth e mailing before hand. I had a similar problem with my WC54 I needed to prove age but as it was a bequest, I wasn't named at that time. A solicitors letter worked fine. They also e mailed that they had details before asking for payment.

Thanks for that Tony. Do you have an email address for them? Their website states only mail or fax. Mail is slow and expensive (from New Zealand) and fax is impractical. I can't think of the last time I've seen a fax machine in my area.

Cheers! :cheesy:

No problem.

 

I was referring to the guy that answered above me.....

 

But his info was outdated, and a search would have gotten you outdated information.

 

This is the 1st post I have done on the new link to get the card.

Excellent, that's good to know, thank you!!

I'm in a bit of a sticky situation. They explicitly state that they need the VIN and the owner on the same document or they won't issue the piece of paper. Because this vehicle is in a trust, I can prove that I'm a trustee and give them a trust inventory with the Carryall included, but there is no Chassis number listed in the inventory.

I have taken a picture separately of the chassis number but I don't think it will be enough. They don't list a phone number and want a FAX or a Letter as their only form of communication... Coming from New Zealand, that gets expensive quick.

Thank you Both for your replies. This has been a big problem for me. I'm guilty of not using the search function on this occasion and see there was another thread like this. Apologies.

Now to find out how to do an overseas money order

Hi Everyone!

All problems with our carryall are now fixed and I'm ready to get her on the road. I have a small problem.

I was wondering if anyone had any documents referencing which chassis numbers were manufactured on which date?

To put the vehicle on the road in New Zealand, I need proof of past registration on our roads. I have nothing. There is a way around it, but that involves proving ownership and the date of manufacture so that it doesn't have to be held to modern standards in the testing station (disc brakes, seatbelts, airbags, etc).

The only piece of info I can find on google is this image:

But it's nowhere close to my chassis number, which is: 81571618

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers, Stephen.

Hi you are in the North island aren't you as it gets a bit hotter up there( we have friends down south),do you go to the WarBirds show as we are hoping to come over next year to see our friends and visit the show

We are in the Bottom of the North Island in a small town called Featherston, about 30minutes from the airshow being held in february. We're planning on having our stuart and GTB there at a minimum :-) That show is wings over wairarapa, but I've never been down south to Warbirds over Wanaka or the Omaka airshow. I'd really like to go one day!

We ended up taking the radiator out of a spare hybrid dodge that My Grandfather made for farmwork in the 70s. The radiator is the same part number and the difference in flow is like night and day. We have fitted that radiator into our carryall and will test it with the new thermostat and pressure cap while the old radiator is repaired.

In the mean time, the only thing really barring the vehicle from running is the sump Gaskets. I have a spare cork set (albeit a bit dry, trying to saturate them in oil as we speak) but there is a funny seal at the very back of the sump, pictured here:

Is anyone able to identify this seal and whether it's necessary? By the location of the bolt holes on the sump, it looks like the cork should seal the oil out of that area. I have no idea of the material or how I can get more. My only full Gasket set doesn't include anything of its type!

Here are some more photos of the farm dodge if you're interested :-)

I'm quite interested in the creases in the sump above. They appear to be symmetrical. I wonder if they're all like that - whether it was bad tooling, bad material, or I've just got one that's been panelbeaten.

Hi I had similar problems as you with over heating on warm days with my M37,changed the pump,all hoses, thermostat,checked spreader tube and repeatedly flushed everything,then took my radiator to a shop who completely re cored it and have had no problems since,wish I had done it sooner😀 and have had no problems with over heating since even on very warm days.

Simon

I've now arranged to meet with a few people to help take the front off again. We'll do the radiator as you suggest :-)

New Pressure cap and O-ring (current pressure cap doesn't work and is missing the seal), thermostat and wipers are on their way. I've sandblasted the sump today and am going to paint it racing black :cool2:. If it overheats after all of this then I'm going to abandon the motor. Lol.

I just wanted to say, as well, thank you for all of your advice on the issue so far. I'm a newbie who is just starting out, and really appreciate your advice :-)

Hey Guys. There is a new development today. There is water leaking - imagine this - out of the back of the sump gasket, on the left side behind the rearmost sump bolt. There is no water on the dipstick, and after immediately dropping the oil, there's no water in the oil either.

I'm about to take the sump off to investigate further. I'm pretty sure that I'm about to find a crack but I hope not! Everything above the sump is bone dry so it's not coming from elsewhere. It's a very unhappy T214 indeed.

Please find a picture below of where the leak is. It's about 2 drips every 30 seconds so it's steady. I'll send the radiator in for repair if I end up taking the motor out and kill two birds with one stone. I'll keep the thread updated. Cheers!

You need a thermostat, as it slows the flow of water down, where when it is flowing through the radiator, it stays there long enough to cool off. Also a warm engine has less wear than a cold engine.

 

It fits in the tp of the engine, then that piece gees over it.

Thank you tankdriver - I just came back to check the thread now. We have had a 3 day working bee (among other things) with a few friends on the truck. I am waiting on a thermostat now. We got about a mile down the road before stopping in a pile of steam!

The motor gets to about 180F and then rapidly heats/flash boils. It spews out of the radiator cap and pumps the contents of the radiator out of the overflow. Here's a list below of what we've done so far -

Sandblasted/painted Steel top housing and bottom hose

Fitted new Rubbers

Replaced water pump

Checked cooling tube - found to be stainless with no corrosion

Replaced Head Gasket

Checked head and bores for (visible) cracks - found nothing

The thermostat/some kind of pressure system is my last hope before removing the motor to get it all crack tested. Is there anything other than a thermostat that we're missing in the process that you can see?

Thank you for your replies Commander and Simon.

The spreader tube is thankfully made out of stainless (Must have been done when it was restored). I pulled it out with some effort and the very back two holes were blocked with flakes of rust (From elsewhere?) but it was otherwise clear and corrosion free.

There can't be a thermostat fitted as that whole piece is blank, as it the hole in the top of the motor.

Hi everyone. I'm doing somewhat of an overhaul on the cooling system of our WC53 Carryall after sitting for many years unused. The current setup doesn't appear to have a thermostat.

Do you have any recommendations on how to approach this? I've heard whispering that people do run them. Are they necessary?

My new water pump has arrived and there is a threaded hole in the top of it which lines up with a funny bypass in the top neck that feeds the radiator. Is this provision for a thermostat? Before, there was a small rubber hose with a cap that fed water straight through to the old pump. Here's a photo!

Any help would be much appreciated. There is a lot to clean out and I'm quite close to taking the motor apart. The rubber all needs replacing and so do the two steel pipes. I'm planning to try flushing it all first with new rubber and a thermostat before proceeding further. The radiator all cleaned out well, as well. Here are some more photos :-D

Thank you for the welcome messages! Here's the pic again.

Also here's a video of us working on the Stuart last weekend. The video is aimed at the public so it's pretty heavily edited.

Hi everyone!

I'm Stephen, 26, one of the curators of the Mainly Military Museum in Featherston. My grandfather, Ivan, started this museum as a tribute to his late brother, George, in the late 90's. The museum houses both of their life's work in restoration. I'll spare you the details, but we've had a bit of a battle after Ivan's passing as to the fate of the collection. It's finally been resolved after 3 years and I'm proud to be able to open again alongside Alex "The-Bedford-Boys" - on this forum.

We have our work cut out for us as the vehicles have been sitting for a long time with a lot of weeping seals, perished oil lines and stuffed brakes.

Vehicle list:

GMC CCKW 6x6

Oerlikon AA

40mm Bofors

Ford jeep

Field cooker

MKII Ferrett

Dodge WC53 Carryall

Austin K2 Ambulance

Chrysler fire pump

General electric 100v Generator Trailer.

Ford GTB Bomb Truck

Morris CS8 Compressor truck unrestored

English Bren gun carrier

NZ LP2 Bren bren gun carrier

25lb field gun+limber

105mm L5 Howitzer (vietnam Era)

Triumph Tiger 100 Bike.

Lloyd farm tractor (made out of bren bits. I don't actually know the model)

M3A1 Stuart

M41A1 Walker bulldog Light tank.

We also have a Chev PJ Radio truck and a Marmon Herrington Gun tractor in progress, as well as tonnes of radios, toys and trinkets to sort through and display.

I know that I, for one, will have lots of questions and have a lot to learn. I most certainly have got the bug!

Here's a sneak preview from inside the building :nut:

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