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We are still mainly concentrating on other (long neglected building) projects but really enjoying getting back into this one after so long. I have glued each additional layer of MDF onto the CNC

We have been tidying the garage so we can get back into this project soon. I have been working through the information I have found on the gearbox and started to model it in CAD. There are 39 par

I needed to get some parts cast for other projects; it seemed to make sense to get the radiator sides cast at the same time.   There is a brace across the bottom of the radiator but th

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On 7/5/2020 at 7:31 PM, Scrunt & Farthing said:

What foundry are you going to send them to, Ben?  I have no experience of Alu in v.low volume, only Bronze.  I need to make some similar bits for my Leyland at some point.

Dave

I think I will be visiting the foundry with a batch of patterns this week so I will check he is still happy to do aluminium and for me to give details here.

The 3D printer has been used again to make the core prints for both ends of the header tank. The first step was to glue ans screw them on.

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Filler was used to cover the screw heads and tidy up any small gaps. The front half of the header tank pattern is now finished but I need to confirm the locations of the features on the back half. I don't have the drawings so it is being scaled from photos and chassis details but I am still not sure if there should be a flange for attaching to the front of the bonnet.

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I took some of the bits of wrought iron to work and blasted then in my lunch breaks. They have had a couple of coats of Bondaprimer

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Where are you based Ben? I get aluminium castings done by “Harling Foundry” in Hastings, they are very sympathetic with work on older stuff and delicate with patterns. They do quite a lot of vintage and veteran car stuff for me. Lloyd (the boss man) is very pleasant and knowledgeable. 01424 443160 If that’s any help. 

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On 7/13/2020 at 8:57 PM, Foden7536 said:

Where are you based Ben? I get aluminium castings done by “Harling Foundry” in Hastings, they are very sympathetic with work on older stuff and delicate with patterns. They do quite a lot of vintage and veteran car stuff for me. Lloyd (the boss man) is very pleasant and knowledgeable. 01424 443160 If that’s any help. 

Thanks,

I am based near Birmingham, my usual foundry appears to have been on holiday this week but has the advantage that I can get there in my lunch breaks. Good to know there are others out there.

Not too much progress on this particular project this week, I have just been putting metal back onto some of the body ironwork where it has been cut or broken off. The repair pieces are being machined from EN3 steel and arc welded to the wrought iron. These ones make up the back corners of the body and carry the rear hoop.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Virtually all of my casting work is done by Andy of AJD Foundries. I can get there from work during my lunch breaks and I have been really impressed with the quality of work.

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The water manifolds have turned out well; the foundry seemed quite happy with the 3D printed patterns so I can continue to use the printer for the smaller patterns and details on the larger ones. 

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The pipe bend for the radiator outlet also looks good. When I have finished the patterns for the radiator and made the patterns for the water pump there will be somewhere to fit it.

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  • 2 months later...

Although I have drawn the radiator out in CAD, I wanted to check the dimensions against the engine and chassis before gluing any of the 3D printed features in place. No drawings have survived for the radiator so it is all worked from photos and chassis dimensions.

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A little bit of glue, filler and some paint completes the spilt pattern for the top tank but I still need to make the core box before I can drop it off at the foundry. 

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The sides are pretty much finished now (just need to polish the pattern coat).

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2 minutes ago, andypugh said:

How does the top tank attach to the radiator core? 

It is a horizontal tube radiator, the two brass tube plates get sandwiched between the cast sides and the top tank (with lots of 1/4 BSW cheese head screws). Only one of the tube plates has a hole in it to let the water through. The baffle in the cast sides put banks of tube in parallel giving the water a serpentine path (putting each bank of tubes in series with the next). The radiator outlet is at the bottom of one side.

The brass pipe bend I had cast recently fits to the radiator outlet and is coupled to the water pump with a piece of flexible hose.

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15 minutes ago, BenHawkins said:

The baffle in the cast sides put banks of tube in parallel giving the water a serpentine path (putting each bank of tubes in series with the next).

How mildly insane!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I needed to get some parts cast for other projects; it seemed to make sense to get the radiator sides cast at the same time.

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There is a brace across the bottom of the radiator but the pattern was too big to print in one piece so I split it into four. I included dowel holes so I could fit them together with glue and some 4mm steel rods.

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It needed a little filler and sanding but is nearly ready for some pattern coat.

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With that success in hand we continued to print the components for the front half of the header tank core box. I ran out of filament for the printer but was able to glue and screw most of the pieces to the MDF board. I don't know if the foundry would prefer to pack sand into the assembled core box or prefer to mould the two halves and glue them together but the design allows for either method.

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