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Thanks for the link Barry. It is all out there if you know where to look and they look very promising. We haven't decided what we are going to do with our radiator for the time being but this has been a great opportunity to pick everyones brains!

Steve  😁

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Productivity enhancement. I added a stripper and a foot-operated air blast to clear the completed parts.  https://youtu.be/Bpb68xB6zTc 8 parts in 45 seconds, down to 20 hours to make the set

We are still mainly concentrating on other (long neglected building) projects but really enjoying getting back into this one after so long. I have glued each additional layer of MDF onto the CNC

I needed to get some parts cast for other projects; it seemed to make sense to get the radiator sides cast at the same time.   There is a brace across the bottom of the radiator but th

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1 hour ago, Old Bill said:

Thanks for the pics Ruxy. Not quite sure what I am looking at though?

Steve.

It is hardly modern , been around for many years - a pneumatic "thin strip-feeder" for power presses (this will take up to 6" wide stock). You could just lay the strip horizontal or wider stuff (above approx. 2") use a simple axle type  de-coiler (the stip coil is vertical). You only need a straightender/feeder on thicker coil, they take up a lot of floor-space , normally have a Kopp variator , two methods of feed , what is known as 'down-loop' or 'top loop' ,  top-loop is very efficient but needs a in-feed table and the material is set to loop upwards until it hits the clutch limit switch - the loop then forces the material through the tools.  In my experience a mechanical feeder is seldom used on a 40 ton press & comes into it's own with 100 tons and above. A pneumatic feeds like this takes up no room and is easily set up. 

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3 hours ago, Old Bill said:

 I guess there must be a lead-screw on the far side of the machine to set the pitch.

When he loads the tube into the chuck it appears to be free-floating. 
I think that it must be self-feeding as a result of the fins running up against each other. 

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On 12/25/2020 at 6:43 PM, Asciidv said:

Andy, when through hole PCB soldering was superseded by surface mount technology I couldn’t bare to get rid of our Hollis wave flow soldering machine. It has at least a 50kg solder tank and 3 phase heating. There is a fluxing tank at one end a long conveyor with titanium fingers which passes the boards over pre-heaters and then the wave solder tank at the opposite end. By adjusting the wave height it would probably solder gilled tubes in a longitudinal manner easily. 
 

Burroughs Machines @ Cramlington  ,  ISTR they had two  HME  100 ton blanking out  'milk-bottle' tops ,,

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The Chinese long series 20mm end mill arrived so I have milled the header tank to length and given it a bit of a clean up with some wet and dry paper. I am not sure how polished the radiator should be.

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I have done some work on the fittings as well. The overflow pipe needs to be shortened but that will wait until I have fitted the filler cap. The filler cap just pushes into the tapered filler neck and is connected to the overflow pipe with a chain so it does not get lost.

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I am still trying to purchase 0.25mm tinplate for the gills in sensible quantities. It should cost around £2/kg or around £50 for the whole core. Some negotiation required as I will need to take on many more projects to use up a minimum batch quantity of 350kg.

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1 hour ago, BenHawkins said:

Some negotiation required as I will need to take on many more projects to use up a minimum batch quantity of 350kg.

At 5p a gill you could probably make money on the deal, there must be literally a couple of people who want some. 

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On 1/10/2021 at 7:49 PM, andypugh said:

At 5p a gill you could probably make money on the deal, there must be literally a couple of people who want some. 

I am sure manufacturing veteran lorry parts is the perfect way to make a small fortune; I just need a large fortune to start with.

The punch tool has arrived safely from Andy. Fortunately I have been given a flypress but I need to set it up somewhere. The weather was good this weekend so we have done a bit more work towards building a Smithy at the bottom of the garden. Hopefully we can get the other walls built and a roof on in the spring.

When the weather improves it is nice to roll the lorries out into the yard to work on. Linking up the steering and brakes would make this easier to achieve. The original drag link came with the chassis but it had been shortened as part of the trailer conversion.

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There was a corroded hole just over 6" from one of the joints where it looked hollow so I cut through there. Annoyingly it was in fact a shallow drilled hole.

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Which means I have shortened that bit by just under 1/4", I might weld it back on but I am certain the remaining 6" length will be fine.

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At least I could measure the location of the other joint and cut in a more sensible location. I was then able to clean up the centre drilled hole.

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The hole centres worked well for the faceplate on my little RandA lathe. These lathes were sold through Gamages for motor repair work in the 1920/30s so it is always nice to use it on the vehicle projects.IMG_6375.thumb.JPG.59660d1fe7e9698f29989ad8664ad5e9.JPG

Still more to take off to get back to 1" diameter so we can silver solder into a new length of seamless tube.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finished rebuilding the spindle on the Bridgeport milling machine. Some bar ends of aluminium out of the scrap bin have been machined into fixtures for the radiator sides so I can machine the mating surface flat. 

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I sent a pattern for the radiator filler cap to the foundry along with a box of other patterns and was able to pick the castings up whilst passing on Friday. It didn't take long to machine it to size and knurl the edge. The 1/8" hole in the middle is so it can be rivetted to a chain. When I worked out these radiator caps were just a push fit it made sense that CP&Co only fitted the Commercial Motor Users Association mascots to the Leyland radiators; theses caps are probably not secure enough for a mascot.

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Despite the poor weather forecast for this weekend we were able to do a bit more towards building the smithy. I need to get that built so I have somewhere to install the fly press and can start punching out radiator gills.

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the drag link I had expected the braze to be holding the tube in place fairly well. However as I machined off the tube it became obvious that there was quite a bit of clearance between the original 1-1/4x10swg tube and the forgings. As I turned down the diameter of the tube it started to tear so I peeled it off. The braze was only at the very end.

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I believe the first end was as it left the factory, the second end had been repositioned as part of the trailer conversion. For this end I used an angle grinder to thin the tube on both sides and then peeled it back.

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The braze had penetrated a little deeper on this end. With the tube removed it exposed a series of holes and chisel marks from the last time it was removed. In this photo I have already welded back on the 3/16" thick piece I cut off the end during disassembly.

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I then filled in the holes and grooves with some more weld.

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Initially I had just intended to silver solder the ends into some new 1-1/4" x 10swg tube. However the tube I have been able to purchase is on the bottom limit of thickness so the inside diameter measures 1.025" and once I have cleaned the forgings back they are around 0.975" diameter. Such a gap is a bit wide to expect capillary action to draw the alloy into the gap. Something to think about as there are plenty of things to be getting on with before I need steering. Suggestions welcome.

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1 hour ago, BenHawkins said:

Suggestions welcome.

Is thicker-wall tube too obvious a suggestion? 

I would reckon on boring the tube internal to suit the forgings. A drill or reamer will just follow the existing bore. 

31/32" and a bit more turning of the forgings? Ebay 133542817126 might do the trick. 

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18 minutes ago, andypugh said:

Is thicker-wall tube too obvious a suggestion? 

I would reckon on boring the tube internal to suit the forgings. A drill or reamer will just follow the existing bore. 

31/32" and a bit more turning of the forgings? Ebay 133542817126 might do the trick. 

Sorry, yes 8swg does appear to be available. Not through my usual suppliers so I will have to shop around.

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