Jump to content

WW1 Thornycroft restoration


Recommended Posts

 

Another way of boring wheels (if a lathe is not available) is to put them on a radial drill. I did this with a tractor wheel a few years ago, with a homemade tool holder.

 

Marcel

 

The nice thing about this hobby is working out how to achieve something using the equipment at your disposal. That one is quite impressive!

 

Steve :-D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope the next bit comes along soon, not sure if I can stand the suspense !

 

Does anyone know of a set of bolt on jaws like the ones that Steve was using. I have a faceplate for my big lathe but no four jaw and have been keeping my eyes open for a set of bolt on jaws for some time with no result. They seem to either get scrapped when businesses close or are suddenly made of gold. Same with big four jaw chucks - my lathe has a D1-11 Camlock fitting and can take up to 4' diameter in the gap so a chuck 30" diameter or over would be ideal if anyone has one in a corner somewhere.

 

Thought it was worth asking....

 

David

i thought it were like soft jaws....where you get a billet clamped in, swing it and bore out the jaws to suit an O/D...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, they are usually made as the ones Steve was using, with hard jaws, though there is no reasion that they couldn't be made with replacable soft jaws. The reasion for individually machining soft jaws for each job is not so valid when using these clamps to fix things to a faceplate, as it is not likely that clamping marks will be a problem and as the jaw is only a very small part of the circumference at that diameter, the fact that it is the wrong radius matters far less.

 

Unlike a normal chuck they only need to screw up a small amount when clamping because you can set them anywhere in the slot of the faceplate. There is no need to have them in a circle if you want to bore something of an odd shape or off centre.

 

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve has been doing a bit of turning again, this time by making part of the brake tensioners.

 

The rear brakes are operated by rods from the handbrake lever. The rods have left and right hand threads on the ends so that they can be rotated to adjust their length. Rather than have a locknut on the end to prevent them from unscrewing, they have little weights brazed on which hang down stopping them from rotating. Our original was extremely corroded so Steve has made some new ones. They are just simple turnings from steel and will be silver soldered on in due course.

 

DSCN4588_zpsc206141e.jpg

 

DSCN4590_zpsfdfed6ce.jpg

 

DSCN4592_zpsfabcd234.jpg

DSCN4591_zps086b257e.jpg

DSCN4594_zpsf664fc21.jpg

 

 

The head was made from a pin for a hydraulic cylinder, the tube from a redundant miniature railway axle and the centre rod from an old display stand. We believe in recycling!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back on Page 139, we mentioned that we were pondering over the poor condition of the Brake Drums on the Back Wheels – we have two sets of Back Wheels and in each case, we thought that the original drums on each set were really beyond recovery. Eventually we decided to have fresh ones cast – so that would entail more pattern making.

 

At this stage, our friend Mark H – the skilled woodworker dropped by and joined in on the discussion – and then very kindly offered to do all the “donkey work” for us in making the patterns – an offer which we were very pleased to accept!

 

The bolting flange is about 26” in diameter – Mark’s method of construction entailed laser cutting the bolting flange from MDF – a very precise an easy way of obtaining that and then bending up and laminating the actual Brake Ring from layers of 2mm ply! He has also managed to machine a slight taper on the brake ring after its assembly for the “Draw” – but I am not sure if it will be quite enough. In his thoughtfulness, Mark has also given us another laser-cut ring and a whole lot of the 2mm ply, should we wish to fiddle with the pattern further before its final completion and preparation for the Foundry.

DSCN1004_zpseb4a3016.jpg

DSCN1007_zps72dc7bd5.jpg

DSCN1008_zps51e250d6.jpg

DSCN1009_zps33a83ed6.jpg

Edited by Great War truck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Steve has been in Devon for a show but also managed to find a little time to work on the lorry. He fitted the breather and timing arrow before grinding in the spark plug plugs.

DSCN1043_zps831b3aa9.jpg

DSCN1044_zpsedae6282.jpg

DSCN1045_zps531c5ed1.jpg

DSCN1048_zpse7ea2b45.jpg

He then secured them using the new caps made by Father some time back, treating them with graphite grease before screwing them home.

DSCN1051_zps57c4ec83.jpg

DSCN1050_zpsd7f9681c.jpg

DSCN1053_zps940336c7.jpg

Finally, he cut new exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets ready for the next time.

DSCN1055_zpsa4e97657.jpg

All more progress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I find amazing is that these early engines had "exposed" valve mechanisms. I would think that dirt and grit would get in there and accelerate wear, considering the conditions they were operated in.

 

As always superb workmanship

 

 

John G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I find amazing is that these early engines had "exposed" valve mechanisms. I would think that dirt and grit would get in there and accelerate wear, considering the conditions they were operated in.

 

As always superb workmanship

 

 

John G

 

Remember this was a day and age when air cleaners were rare indeed and engines were not far removed from the "total loss" oiling systems. Some T-head manufactures did provide protection for the valve gear - Sterling hid their valve stems and guides behind covers in the blocks. Wisconsin used cylindrical aluminum shrouds on some of their engines that enclosed the stems and springs. Rather than keep out dust their purpose was to contain the "oil mist" blowing up through the lifters to lubricate the valves.

 

Once again... magnificent work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may remember that when we took the pump apart, the fan bearing carrier, now known as ‘the onion’ was pretty moth eaten around the base and Steve started to make the patterns for a new one.

 

DSCN4784_zpsfddc34bd.jpg

We were then fortunate to pick up another water pump complete with fan and ‘onion’ at the Banfield auction in Kent a few months ago.

 

DSCN0628_zpsd3076b0e.jpg

 

This pump assembly was in excellent order but, of course, we had already fixed the one we had! We decided to use the original one but transplant the much better ‘onion’ to it.

 

Dismantling commenced with the fan coming off quite easily followed by the fan carrier with a little persuasion. The onion is secured with a ring of nuts and studs and these too came apart although one did shear off. The onion itself was stuck, though but some gentle heat freed it up from its flange. Only the end bearing remained and this just would not give in to heat and gentle persuasion so Steve decided to make up a special puller. He started with an old G-clamp acquired from a stall at a show and modified the end by welding. (His welding still doesn’t get any better!).

 

DSCN4525_zps215fbcfa.jpg

DSCN4526_zps123fd3db.jpg

Then he made up a split collar to go around the shaft to give the clamp something to push against.

 

DSCN4527_zpse0906146.jpg

 

DSCN4528_zps4e989711.jpg

DSCN4529_zps3af2b09e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing moved so he tried the pulley.

DSCN4531_zpsf53e61f1.jpg

 

This did move with added hammer blows so he went back to the end bearing, this time with heat.

DSCN4532_zpsef9e75d0.jpg

 

The clamp bent again so he decided to cut the bearing out with the pencil grinder.

 

DSCN4533_zpsa9657636.jpg

DSCN4537_zps69864ab6.jpg

DSCN4538_zps1fbf00b4.jpg

 

DSCN4539_zps63daa2eb.jpg

 

That got it but it took ages! Then it was back to the pulley.

DSCN4540_zps93e6f231.jpg

 

This time it moved a bit but stuck. Any amount of adjustment and tapping would not cause it to move and it took him a long time to remember that the pulley almost certainly had a key and the collar was pushing on the end of it! A quick look confirmed this and he rotated the collar to clear the key with instant success.

DSCN4541_zps281e0d4b.jpg

 

Fortunately, only the key was damaged but it does go to show what can happen when you don’t think the job right through.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DSCN4542_zps90cfba54.jpg

DSCN4543_zps2bab6e1f.jpg

The next piece to remove was the end bearing and this was simply levered out with a pair of screwdrivers.

DSCN4546_zps395e5463.jpg

DSCN4547_zps818dd824.jpg

Finally, the gland locking screw was taken out. This was done using heat and an impact screwdriver which is a most wonderful tool. How did we ever manage without one?

DSCN4544_zps7f10a29d.jpg

DSCN4545_zps810ad6e8.jpg

DSCN4549_zpsa6110477.jpg

A quick clean up with a nylon brush in the pistol drill and the casting is ready for painting which Father will do ready for the grand Christmas final assembly of the engine.

DSCN4550_zps9e3b7bcb.jpg

DSCN4551_zpsec188ea1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember this was a day and age when air cleaners were rare indeed and engines were not far removed from the "total loss" oiling systems. Some T-head manufactures did provide protection for the valve gear - Sterling hid their valve stems and guides behind covers in the blocks. Wisconsin used cylindrical aluminum shrouds on some of their engines that enclosed the stems and springs. Rather than keep out dust their purpose was to contain the "oil mist" blowing up through the lifters to lubricate the valves.

 

Once again... magnificent work.

is that so?...

 

think rotarys my friend...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On a different theme... I'm struggling to separate flywheel and front pulley, each at opposite ends of my 1911/12 Leyland crankshaft. Both an incredibly tight fit. I will make a puller for the pulley as I have nothing that quite fits and i expect that to work. However, the flywheel is BIG. It houses the cone clutch. That's it on the right...

 

What to do? Robert

 

leyland engine S3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it can be done - not sure - it looks like dismantling the rest of it and dropping the crank out, so that you are only left with the crank with pulley and flywheel in place, would be the best start?

Edited by Gordon_M
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same as above, if you can't attach some threaded rods to the flywheel or braces behind it to pull put it under a press. You will have to take out the crankshaft anyway I guess? It is not too difficult to make your own puller, just make it heavy enough. Here is an example of a puller that I made a few weeks ago. The bearing and housing had to come off together, no way with a classic puller even though it was a quality one. I spent a couple of hours fabricating one but the bearing came off in no time. The puller is now on the shelf for future jobs.

 

BTW Steve, I think it was a relief when the 'onion' was relieved without damage, and it will be a pleasure to fit another nice and clean original part!

 

Marcel

 

P9290002.jpg

Edited by Cel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all. Impressive puller Marcel. The closeness of flywheel to Leyland engine makes it impossible to get very close to the centre/crank with a puller. Do I want to pull from further out? At least I have a spare. I shall explore the removal of crank and flywheel as a unit. I shall try to resist the temptation to hit it hard with a sledge hammer... Rob\]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve has been pattern making again, this time for the transmission brake shoe. Isn’t it funny that no matter how many pictures you take, there are never quite enough? We have about 600 of other people’s lorries and still these were the only ones Steve had to work to!

 

Bus_Transmission_Brake_zps2be426b6.jpg

 

DSCN3537_zps549dee9c.jpg

 

IMG_3895_zps85dce3d1.jpg

 

Fortunately, whilst living as a student in Portsmouth, he took the opportunity to sketch the Portsmouth bus which was kept in the local bus depot and he had a good idea of how it should look. With that and the photos and measurements of our gearbox, he drew it out on the board and then started with the spine of the pattern.

 

DSCN4451_zpsace99987.jpg

 

This was followed by the bosses and bits for the clevis end.

DSCN4452_zpsa433b5cc.jpg

 

DSCN4455_zps02f3d7e1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DSCN4513_zps1d122f5f.jpg

These were dressed to a curve using a chisel on the outside and a flap wheel on the concave surface.

DSCN4521_zps9a48beed.jpg

 

DSCN4522_zpsf41ec1fc.jpg

 

Fillets were fitted next using traditional leather.

 

DSCN4523_zps9c1718d1.jpg

DSCN4552_zps097286eb.jpg

All that then remained was to rub it down and paint it using our usual two coats of Bondaprime.

DSCN4585_zpsf8a7f7f5.jpg

 

DSCN4587_zps111a2493.jpg

 

These will be cast in SG iron in due course, once Steve has checked them closely to the gearbox. Brake drum pattern next!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, is the split line going to be down the central rib? If so how does the foundry resolve the cut away for the clevis end? Would it have been easier for them if it had been kept solid and you milled the slot in afterwards? How many hours did this pattern take for you to produce?

 

I do like your pictures mainly to see what you have lying around your work bench. I see that you are loyal to your employer with your Dennis Eagle mug. (I always have to look twice to see the Eagle in the reverse pattern) and the other day the plastic container labelled 'ACID' caught my eye. What acid is it and what do you use it for?

 

 

Best wishes,

 

Barry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Barry.

 

My intention is that the split line is along the concave surface. In other words, the moulder puts it on his board face down as shown in the penultimate picture, fills the box and then reverses it so that the concave surface faces up. he will cut the sand away down to the top of the clevis area before filling the top half of the box. The clevis is tapered slightly as is the rib down the back to allow it to be drawn. That is how my mind is working but the moulder might have a fit when he sees it! We shall see.

 

Sadly, I dropped the Dennis Eagle mug last week so it is no more. It is also irreplaceable as we have a new logo. Very sad!

 

The acid is sulphuric acid from an old battery. I use it for pickling components before and after silver soldering to remove the flux. It has been there ten years now and is turning into a copper sulphate solution. It needs replacing but these 'sealed for life' batteries are making it hard to do!

 

Steve :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mug restoration.

as you know we both have specialities in restoration....

mix flower and water to glue the shards together, once completely build up, place in a hot oven 190C for 15 minutes and you can use the mug for decoration or carefully use it with drinks.

cheers, Arjan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...