Old Bill Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) Still preparing for the Christmas push, Dad has drilled out the body mount castings to match the holes in the chassis. A trial fit of the first one and it looked good so he carried on and did the rest. The fun then started with the front and rear ones as they have a hole through for a 1" bolt. Dad's biggest chucks are half-inch which made the job look tricky until I realised that we could use a 'blacksmith's bit' which has a half inch shank for all sizes of drill. A visit to my local Toolstation provided a 15 and a 25mm bit so we put the 15 through first and follwed up with the 25, finally finishing off with a hand reamer of 1". It was all fun and games as the mill was set to maximum height and the quill would not drop low enough to do the hole on the other side. Once the first one was through, we had to lower the head to allow the drill to reach right through! It all worked in the end and the castings are now in the paint shop. Still lots to do! Steve Edited December 5, 2017 by Old Bill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendelspanswick Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) It looks like the chuck will come out off the quill on your mill/drill and you can use morse taper bits. Edited December 6, 2017 by Wendelspanswick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IAN_B Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 I have a range of Morse taper drills, but my pedestal drill is only #2 and the tailstock of my lathe is #3. So I have turned down to 5/8" the ends of a number of them so I can use them in both places using a chuck, though they will lock in the taper. A couple of the larger sizes 1 1/2" etc were Morse taper #4, and this is the only way I can use these drills, mostly for starting off boring jobs. I don't think my drill likes anything bigger than 1" though. I don't have a milling machine. You probably consider this to be sacrilege but I have to be practical! Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendelspanswick Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Not sacrilege, I'm a firm believer in modifying tools to get a job done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 15 hours ago, Old Bill said: I realised that we could use a 'blacksmith's bit' which has a half inch shank for all sizes of drill. A visit to my local Toolstation provided a 15 and a 25mm bit so we put the 15 through first and follwed up with the 25, finally finishing off with a hand reamer of 1". The cheap set of Blacksmiths drills that I got from Screwfix a few years ago have proved to be of surprisingly excellent quality. They are still going strong. Though, with the 10 year gap between my purchase and the present there is no guarantee that they are now from the same supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Adrian has very kindly welded a block onto our exhaust elbow where the mounting should be. He used nickle rods after pre-heating the casting in the Rayburn for which use I must thank Fay! He increased the weld preparation to 1/4" all round which meant that I could tidy it up with a file with no danger of detaching the block. I also drilled the pilot hole out. That completes the last component of the exhaust system so there is something else to put together over Christmas! Thanks Adrian! Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 You could also hang this part in your christmas tree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrev Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 3 hours ago, Citroman said: You could also hang this part in your christmas tree Some "fire red" metallic paint and it would be quite the unique bauble. Of course with the compulsory OH&S warning tag attached "Warning: Heavy object, dangerous if dropped on foot, bend your knees when lifting". ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Wonderful neat welding by Adrian. Far better to give it to an expert rather than make a mess of it yourself on something that cannot be replaced. When this part first came up I mentioned that I was going to try MIG brazing of cast iron. The advantage being is that the braze is melting at around 500 degrees C, so there is less thermal expansion/contraction which leads to cracks. For big parts like cylinder blocks which may not fit in the oven along with the Sunday roast MIG brazing might have advantages. I used a standard MIG set but with pure Argon (not the CO2 Argon mix used with steel wire) and a fast wire speed. The braze flowed beautifully, right through a poorly aligned 90 degree joint. Certainly something to try if all else fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 That's interesting Barry. I have never heard of such a thing before. Do you need flux as well or is the Argon sufficient on its own? That is another string to your bow anyway! Dad has been pressing on with the Thorny in the paint shop. The body mount brackets are now ready to fit. Five coats of paint I think! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 The planks have arrived! Dad has been busily painting the undersides because it is so much easier to do than upwards from underneath. Aluminium primer on wood. And the usual top coats. There is nothing like using your project as a work bench! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 The "box" brackets seem like a rather crazy design. (Harder to make, need a core, not as strong) so did they have another function? Were poles passed down inside them for some purpose, perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 The only reason I can see for the 'box' brackets is that the 1" holes spaced apart give the main hold-down bolts some stability to hold the cross-members upright. The wings on the sides may not fit tightly enough to grip the timber otherwise. 1" bolts seem a little overkill just to hold the body down. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) Rubbish post, sorry. John Edited December 13, 2017 by Barney Rubbish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Dad has been to the foundry this week and has picked up the propshaft ends. As you can see, they have come out very nicely and we are very pleased. The foundrymen did comment, though, that printed patterns are much more difficult to get out of the sand as they have no bulk into which a screw can be driven. A bit of repair work will be required if we ever need any more castings. Let's hope that we don't! Thanks for the pattern Barry! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I had the same problem with my 3D printed patterns. Now that you know, it would be easy to leave a hole to glue a bit of dowel in to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Good thinking Andy. I will keep it in mind the next time I draw one up. Father also picked up the water spigot. There is an interesing mark on the side where I suspect that the pattern broke at the joint and they have done a repair. They didn't mention it so I shall have a closer look over Christmas. I should have spent a bit more time with the glass paper though.! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 You can have a solid part introduced in the 3d printing program it think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 It all depends on how you configure the ‘slicer’. This is the programme which takes your CAD model of the part and then slices it into thin layers for printing. I typically print with a layer thickness of 0.15mm which is a compromise between the smoothness of the curved surfaces against printing time. Rather than the print being solid throughout ( which on large prints would take for ever ) you can set the print density and when this is down to 10% the core of the print has very little material present, hence the screw pulls out. However you can set the thickness of the solid outer ‘skin’ and if set at say 5mm the problem that Steve highlighted would not have occurred. Andy’s idea of gluing in a wooden dowel is certainly the simplest! Barry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IAN_B Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I am learning more and more about 3D printing! Hopefully it will stand me in good stead for the day when we plunge into it for pattern making ourselves. ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 That's what this website is all about. Shared knowledge and enjoyment! Dad has started on the water suction elbow. First job was a general clean up all over with file and emery. The big challenge was how to hold it which Father resolved with a wooden vee-block and a variety of clamps. Something of a lash-up but good enough to allow some gentle cuts to squate up the face. Now it just needs the stud holes and it can be fitted to the radiator. Another piece for Christmas! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 On 12/16/2017 at 10:10 PM, IAN_B said: Hopefully it will stand me in good stead for the day when we plunge into it for pattern making ourselves. Perhaps Santa can bring you one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232271498856 I have found mine to be perfectly adequate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 The dino head makes a nice radiator mascot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 More Christmas preparation going on. This time, I have been working on the body side braces. They are simple bits of bent angle but still take some time. First job was to cut and drill the angle remembering that they are handed! Then set up my welding kit. This is an exercise in optimism as you all know my skill level for welding! I wound up the current and welded a gusset in from both sides. I was distinctly heavy handed but the angle grinder soon took it all off again. Much to my surprise, the joint held up when I heaved on it in the vice. A quick dress of the corners and a couple of coats of primer and we are all ready for the off. More steelwork still to do and we are hoping to take delivery of some more timber this week. Fingers are crossed! Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 Still pressing on with preparations for the body build, Adrian has kindly cut these out for me with his water jet machine. They are the corner braces for the front of the body, the hoop bases and the tow hook protector plate for the tailboard. He even put the screw holes in so the first job was to countersink them. The corner plates have a 90° bend in them so I have made a bending attachment for the press. Something is not quite right with the geometry of it as I can't get very crisp bends but these parts will be fine. Then on to the hoop bases. These have two 90° bends at 90° to each other. To try to tighten the bend, I pushed them hard into the bottom of the vee but this caused an over-bend. I rectified this by pushing a piece of round into the bend to ease it back. This worked OK but I need to refine the press some more. The second bend was a bit trickier as my tooling is not robust enough to bend away from the centre line of the ram. I took the blade out of the ram, moved it to one side and pressed on the top of it with the ram flat face. It was a bit of a lash-up and took some setting up to get it all aligned but it did work. Two bases of each hand: Two coats of Bondaprime all over and we are ready to go. Getting exciting now! Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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