protacman Posted April 23, 2009 Posted April 23, 2009 Just bought a 432, pictures to follow. I'm starting the restoration and as usual need help. Can anyone tell me how to flash the alternator circuit? they are both not showing charge and i've checked the circuit including fuse on the rectifier box. Quote
paulob1 Posted April 24, 2009 Posted April 24, 2009 good choice....cant answer your questions as i am learning too...where is your machine... Quote
protacman Posted April 24, 2009 Author Posted April 24, 2009 Hi in Ireland heres more pics we saw it in a large Shed , has not been driven for 3 years. Lots of electrical problems. Quote
protacman Posted April 26, 2009 Author Posted April 26, 2009 yes, or i'm to stupid to be scared....... Quote
Swill1952xs Posted April 26, 2009 Posted April 26, 2009 Just bought a 432, pictures to follow. I'm starting the restoration and as usual need help. Can anyone tell me how to flash the alternator circuit? they are both not showing charge and i've checked the circuit including fuse on the rectifier box. Stupid question time............ What do you mean by "flashing" the alternator circuit? I've only heard this term used to alter the polarity of dynamos when you "Flash" the field circuit to reverse the residual magnetism in the field coils. I have no experience with this type of vehicle so I may be about to learn something. In my experience, anything to do with flashing and alternators usually ends up with a dead unit. :??? Quote
protacman Posted April 27, 2009 Author Posted April 27, 2009 Ok, So i've been told by several people that on these old vehicles the residual magnatisim can fade, resulting in a dead alternator. by applying a current to the correct poles you reintroduce it. it only takes a minimum charge for a few seconds. The flashing part is a spark that occurs as you remove the live warning if you get a flash as you connect your windings have failed Quote
Stormin Posted April 28, 2009 Posted April 28, 2009 Ok,So i've been told by several people that on these old vehicles the residual magnatisim can fade, resulting in a dead alternator. by applying a current to the correct poles you reintroduce it. it only takes a minimum charge for a few seconds. The flashing part is a spark that occurs as you remove the live warning if you get a flash as you connect your windings have failed From my experience alternators use a live feed to introduce a field to the coils. That's the one connected to the charge light. Only dynamos are `flashed' as you put it. Quote
protacman Posted April 29, 2009 Author Posted April 29, 2009 i'm new to flashing (had to be said) however, from having no charging i now have a working circuit after i flashed it. i must say i removed the rear alternator from the circuit as it appears to have a short. so,by following the directions i was given i also discovered this fault.did the flashing restore power or was it the removal of the dodgy alternator............ Quote
84KB11 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 Hi, Found this thread a bit late. I have most of the SEME manuals for the electrical system in FV432, so should be able to copy any of the diagrams you need. Attached is the generating system block diagram for reference: If there is any specific circuit you need the diagram for , let me know and I will see if I have it. Charging_Circiut.pdf Quote
protacman Posted May 2, 2009 Author Posted May 2, 2009 need more help opened the steering unit to check oil level This is the colour of the oil that was in it. its supposed to be OMD 75 Is this the correct fluid as OMD 75 is also the Engine oil The black oil is old stuff that was in the bucket already Quote
84KB11 Posted May 2, 2009 Posted May 2, 2009 Looks a bit like water has got into it and emulsified the oil. You are correct, the oil in the steering box is just normal engine oil. The manual I have says OMD110 (SAE30), OMD75 (SAE 10w/30) or OMD85 (SAE15w/40) will also be OK to use. Quote
protacman Posted May 2, 2009 Author Posted May 2, 2009 Thanks by the way, all those numbers are of help. but to tell the truth i've been using 15w40 for all my engines as its a good oil. i figured moisture but had to check, i thought they might have changed the spec. Quote
84KB11 Posted May 3, 2009 Posted May 3, 2009 I also have found 15w/40 to be a good chice for most applications. I would avoid it for the gearbox though. When I got the Abbot, I think it had 15w/40 in the gearbox and the changes were very sluggish. I changed it for the correct oil, OMD40 (SAE10w), and it is now much better. I get mine from Morris Oils. http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=294&product=Golden+Film+SAE+10+Classic+Motor+Oil Quote
turnkeyiand Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Without wanting to teach anyone to suck eggs, I'd check your coolant for traces of oil, as the steering oil goes through a heat exchanger and that may be where the contamination is coming from. I have known drivers use OEP220 (final drive oil) by mistake which doesn't do much for the steering or the exchanger. It doesn't always show immediately and in fact I had to run my Barra for several months with a blown exchanger due to lack of down time to change it. Ian Quote
84KB11 Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Good point Ian, Gearbox also goes through the heat exchanger, so worth checking this too. As it sounds like this vehicle has been stood for some time, I guess protacman is going to change all the fluids and filters so any issues should make themselves known! Which antifreeze (type and concentration) do people recomend for FV430's? I want to do a coolant change on mine, but not sure what to use. Quote
protacman Posted May 5, 2009 Author Posted May 5, 2009 Yes, I would change all the filters except i would have to take out the POWER PACK to do that. Who designed that? King of the twisted spanner Club? At this time no oil in Coolant, or Water in the Gearbox or Engine Quote
84KB11 Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 Good to hear, hopefully it was just condensation or a past poor maintainence. I know what you mean about access, I am quite skinny yet still struggle to get at anything on the power pack! Luckily the K60 is quite robust if looked after correctly. I look forward to seeing more pictures as the re-comissioning continues. Good luck! Quote
paul connor Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 At least with the Pack removed you can change all filters and "run it up" before refitting. Do you have a Fv432 Engine lifting frame? We have 8 Fv432's in the yard if you need any cross referencing Quote
protacman Posted May 8, 2009 Author Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) No lifting frame I'll never need one...............WATCH THIS SPACE making a roof to keep the weather off her Edited May 8, 2009 by protacman Quote
paulob1 Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 that roof is a good idea...gonna make one for mine...fed up of dragging the sheet over her... Quote
84KB11 Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 Paul, I have to ask....why have you got 8 fv432's in the yard? Quote
Stone Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 One-upmanship of the Tank Limo, maybe? :cool2: Stone Quote
protacman Posted May 9, 2009 Author Posted May 9, 2009 8 432's sorry just the one i'm sick but not twisted, yet Quote
protacman Posted May 13, 2009 Author Posted May 13, 2009 picture of the yard Can you spot the 432? Quote
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