Landrover series 3 Diesel conversion

[paul connor]

Ok, what is needed?

 

I know there are normal and turbo diesel models in the engines.. what is best in a series? without having to uprate the suspention and the brakes to cope with it all?

 

 

Is it poss to even do the mod without having to move the grill and bits about?

 

Woul I just need need the donar engine and ancills or is there more needed? does it mate to the gear box and drive train etc

 

 

I know someone willl know more, many thanks

 

Also is there any probs doing this to a 24V FFR, would I have to change to 12V?

[gritineye]

18 yrs 110 crikey that makes me feel ancient Bernard,i think it was another Perkins under license.

 

Me too, yes Perkins but much improved (Japs can do that) it once pushed Forceful up Johns cross hill on the A21 when he had a mag problem, luckily had the LR on an A frame, lots of tyre smoke! :sweat:

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Me too, yes Perkins but much improved (Japs can do that) it once pushed Forceful up Johns cross hill on the A21 when he had a mag problem, luckily had the LR on an A frame, lots of tyre smoke! :sweat:

Whot no pics:rofl:

[gritineye]

Stress levels were high and I forgot about the A frame and steered into the pub car park instead of just following, smoke/squeal levels really rose then, but it got more interesting when the surface changed to gravel, the new BFGs had heat cracks around the outside shoulders after. Sorry best get back on topic.

[paul connor]

OK.

 

I shall be attempting this conversion soon, prob a TDI 200.

 

a few questions still.

 

1. gearbox... Will my top speed be greater with the the TDI? or restricted by the box? (not that I intend to speed,more for cruising at more than 45mph! 60mph would be nice!)

 

2.shocks.... So its worth uprating my shockers front and rear, but assume the leafs would be ok?

 

3.24V... I would like to keep the 24V system, could I do this with the TDI? and keep my 90amp alternator

 

4.brakes.... I assume the drums would stand the little extra weight as they perform very well now?

 

I think that covers my concerns. As usual many thanks to you all for your help and advice.

 

I have fitted a hardtop today and sealed it tight, so now is all well

[Stormin]

1. Gearbox may struggle with the extra torque of the 200 TDi if not in the best condition. The TDi revs slightly lower than the standard petrol ~4000rpm versus ~5000rpm. I'd consider an overdrive or maybe better still 3.5 ratio diffs (give the half shafts a better chance of surviving)

 

2. Wouldn't bother with the shocks, doubt you'll notice any difference on standard leaf springs. Parabolics are a different kettle of fish.

 

3. You may be should be able to run the TDi starter on 24volts no problem. May even give it an easier time as less amps used. Finding room to mount the generator may be a problem though. Heater plugs and temp senders should be available in 24volt versions.

 

4. I would absolutley definately upgrade your brakes. No matter how good you think they are you are going from a theoretical 70BHP to 111BHP if you fit the intercooler. Although the gearing and revs may limit the top speed the torque can get you into trouble a lot quicker. Save the money from the shocks to spend on the brakes, please.

 

Be prepare to change half shafts on a regular basis unless you've got a salisbury rear axle or a gentle driving style. All TDi engined land rovers had permanent four wheel drive to share the torque across two axles rather than one.

[Davie]

Hi Paul,I put a 200tdi in my 11A 109 in june. I kept the 24 volt generator, which wasn't too difficult to do. I'm very pleased with the conversion. At the weekend, when I have more time, I will take some photos and explain what I did to fit the genny. Meanwhile click this link for some interesting reading.

 

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversionIntro.htm

 

Regards, Davie.

[Davie]

Here is the link I meant to post. Much more informative.

 

 

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversion.htm

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Hi Paul,I put a 200tdi in my 11A 109 in june. I kept the 24 volt generator, which wasn't too difficult to do. I'm very pleased with the conversion. At the weekend, when I have more time, I will take some photos and explain what I did to fit the genny. Meanwhile click this link for some interesting reading.

 

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversionIntro.htm

 

Regards, Davie.

Thanks for this link :tup::

[Davie]

Ok, here is what I did to fit the genny.

First, I obtained a waterpump pully and fitted it back to back with the original water pump pully. slightly longer set screws and threadlock were used. this pully will drive the generator belt.

On top of the timing case are four threaded holes, Using short set screws, attatch a piece of 1/4" steel plate about 10" square to these holes.

Next I cut the generator mounting lugs off the original mounting bracket, and bolted them onto the genny, then placed the genny onto the plate and carefully lined it's front pully up with the new one on the pump. Then when sure it was lined up correctly I tackwelded the lugs to the plate.

Next I cut the bracket with the threaded adjuster rod from the original engine. This was attatched to the genny and tackwelded to the plate.

Then remove the genny and fully weld the brackets to the plate. The genny can then be refitted with the drive belt. I used a Quinton Hazell belt No. QBB875. This was a wee bit short when new and I had to remove the drive pully to get it on. It has now stretched though and is no longer a problem.

Even though there is no power steering, the power steering pump has to be retained, as it is used as the adjuster for the water pump belt. I was a wee bit worried about this as I was not sure if the steering pump bearing relied on power steering fluid for lubrication. So, I dismantled an old pump to see. Luckily, the pump contains a standard sealed bearing, so no problem there.

Anyway here are some photos of the generator.

I'll try and get some time tomorrow to draw a circuit diagram so you can see how I married the 24volt system to the 12 volt engine.

Regards, Davie.

[Davie]

A couple of the photos above are of the intercooler position. Because of the generator position, you cannot use the Discovery radiator and intercooler in their all in one mounting. I opted to keep the series radiator and oil cooler and mount the intercooler behind and to the left of the radiator. I used a hole saw to cut some holes in the inside bit of the front panel to let it breath. I went to Pirtek and got a couple of hoses made to connect the military oil cooler to the Discovery hoses. As for a cooling fan, At the moment I have just cable tied a Peugeot 305 fan in front of the oil cooler. I have not yet needed to switch it on, even when idling in traffic or pulling a heavy trailer.

More to follow.

Davie.

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Cheers again Davie allways interested in how people get round these problems.

[Davie]

Nae probs Catweasle, I'll do a bit more in the next day or two.

[Davie]

Here's a rough drawing of the electrics. Make sure that the 24 volt relay is a good quality heavy duty one, (I got mine from ebay for a fiver) as the heater plugs which draw a heavy current, are fed from this, make sure you remove the heater relay timer from your donor discovery. I used proper soldered bullet connectors, which are a bit more time consuming, but are a much better connector than the modern crimp type.

 

Another thing to mention is the turbo will slightly foul the near side chassis rail. Some folk cut a piece out of the chassis to remedy this. I found that placing a thick (about 3/8") washer between the rubber engine mount and the chassis mount lifted the turbo enough for it to clear without compromising anything else.

 

I could not be bothered fabricating an exhaust, so bit the bullet and bought one from Steve Parker. I found it awkward to fit as it is very tight for clearance, especially the front half. I got there in the end though, fabricating one from scratch would have been a nightmare. Here is the link. I think the price has gone up though.

 

 

http://www.steveparkers.com/proddetail.php?prod=EXHS3SWBDVY200

 

Enough for now, Regards, Davie.

[maxmat]

hello there! how did you get around 12v fuel cut off?

[Davie]

hello there! how did you get around 12v fuel cut off?

 

Hi Maxmat, welcome to the forum.

Do you mean how is the fuel cut off wired? If you look at my drawing you will see that it is item "C".

Davie.

[rbrtcrowther]

Hi there.

 

Put a diesel diahatsu fourtrak engine in my series 3, 2.8 turbo without intercooler. scrap fourtrak cost £100 conversion kit cost £300 (bell housing adapter + engine mounts) no need to weld chassis and for £30 you can send the flywheel and have it drilled for the series 3 clutch.

this engine will out pull a 300tdi defender and run out of cogs even with an overdrive.

google "Conversion and precision engine conversions" for more info

 

Would personally not bother with a rover engine at all. Jap all the way (it pains me to say it):shake:

[landymanrob]

Oh god what an awfull engine in a rangie! i had one, great once wound up but crap off road . 1st gear only with 750's

 

why not gas it up ? 2.25 is a lovely engine