Oil question

[gritineye]

I think thats called a blown headgasket.You read some funny books,was it Mr crabtree shows Jim an oil change.

 

CW, don't rush to judge before the facts are in. :nono:

 

Can't find the reference to Cat engines right now, but Cummins did the same thing.

 

"At duty-cycle-dependent intervals, CENTINEL removes a small amount of used oil out of the lubrication system and sends it to your fuel tank. The used oil blends with the fuel and is burned during combustion. Simultaneously, CENTINEL adds the same amount of new oil from a makeup tank into your engine. This constantly replenishes oil additives, improving oil quality over the life of your engine.

 

There is also a "Burn-Only" version of CENTINEL that eliminates the reserve oil tank and oil makeup feature. Burn-Only CENTINEL is ideal for those who manage maintenance daily and have weight-sensitive applications."

 

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qsol/products/newparts/centinel.html

 

Read and weep :coffee:

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Well i have read it,how on earth does it extend oil changes ,its doing an oil change whilst its running,Not keen on cummins ever since my instructor made me time up a v6 using pressure /time injection system,over complicated twoddle.and these new ones common rail,one injector with excessive leak back drops the rail pressure and they all stop,just the thing in a force seven wind on the nose.Now Cats are king.mine are 1968. 4 valves per cyl,Quad overhead cam,V8,11 litre.Turbocharged,aftercooled,all this in 1968 so whats new.low horsepower only 400 each.but capable of 800hp each as in the oshcosh foam tender which was capable of 100mph,What most people dont realise is,for my application the engines have to be able to withstand hours of running at two /three hundred revs less than max ,which meens 2,000 revs continuios,its a bit different from pottering along lanes at 28 mph.

When vosper thorneycroft used this boat for testing all sorts of equipment,(secret at the time)it had to endure long spells under severe conditions,and breakdowns were not an option.Next you will be telling me Gardner were the best diesel engines ever made:rofl:Just for fun mate:thumbsup:

Edited July 29, 2008 by catweazle (Banned Member)

[N.O.S.]

Caterpillar, Cat? I think you'll find Gardner were the best diesel engines ever made.

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Caterpillar, Cat? I think you'll find Gardner were the best diesel engines ever made.

I have an admiration for them i have to admit,there are some lovely ones in canal boats (ditch crawlers) long lived its true.but i see them as cart horses not race horses.My engines were streets ahead at that time and if you study the engines available there wasnt really anything else available to do this job,masses of torque is the secret.The ability to perform to the maximum regardless of load and conditions.Believe it or not all parts still available allmost next day,now thats service.

[Davie]

Well, I have contacted Andy Brown of Morris Lubricants technical department. He says to use Supreme 30 or to give it it's new name Golden Film SAE30. I am awaiting the sales dept. contacting me with price and local stockist.

 

 

Hi Davie, whilst not wishing to hijack this thread, but to take it a bit further if I may, there is another oil related question that often comes up, which is, how long is it sensible to go between oil changes given the low mileage most of us do in our old vehicles?

 

As the Cummins in mine takes 34 ltrs, 1 bypass and 1 full flow filter and the book says to change every 10,000 mls or 6 months it is not cheap, the oil still very clean even after 2 yrs, I am aware that additives can degrade over time and condensation can occur whilst standing, I am using 15W-40 oil to API clasification CC.

 

I do no more than 1500 mls a year

 

I also asked him about Gritineye's question, the reply is as follows.

 

" We would, despite the low milage, stick with the Cummins recommendation. The reason being that even when the engine isn't being used the oil will be degrading, but more importantly an engine not used much will inevitably get condensation on internal metal surfaces. This will contaminate the oil and combine with any acidic compounds created by oxidation of the oil. These can lead to internal corrosion, pitting etc. So a regular oil change irrespective of milage is recommended."

 

 

 

Hope this helps, Davie.

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

I use a long chain molecule addative from australia,it has the capacity to hold moisture in suspension rather than separating out ,it also has the ability to stay on the parts that are vunerable to drain down,inportant for vehicles that stand around a lot.We had reason to strip an engine that had been using it and found it difficult to clean off.expensive.Thanks for letting us know,i guess thats what they would recomend for mine now.

[gritineye]

I also asked him about Gritineye's question, the reply is as follows.

 

" We would, despite the low milage, stick with the Cummins recommendation. The reason being that even when the engine isn't being used the oil will be degrading, but more importantly an engine not used much will inevitably get condensation on internal metal surfaces. This will contaminate the oil and combine with any acidic compounds created by oxidation of the oil. These can lead to internal corrosion, pitting etc. So a regular oil change irrespective of milage is recommended."

 

Hope this helps, Davie.

 

Thanks for that Davie, I somehow thought that was the right thing to do, just too tight really. :-(

 

I use a long chain molecule addative from australia,it has the capacity to hold moisture in suspension rather than separating out ,it also has the ability to stay on the parts that are vunerable to drain down,inportant for vehicles that stand around a lot.We had reason to strip an engine that had been using it and found it difficult to clean off.expensive.Thanks for letting us know,i guess thats what they would recomend for mine now.

 

That's interesting CW, got a name for it? so will you keep using the additive or drain more often? As you say your engines are worked hard and need all the protection you can give them.

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Thanks for that Davie, I somehow thought that was the right thing to do, just too tight really. :-(

 

 

 

That's interesting CW, got a name for it? so will you keep using the additive or drain more often? As you say your engines are worked hard and need all the protection you can give them.

Hi Bernard,I havnt put the name up here as it maybe looked open as advertising.i can pm you.I use it in all the vehicles,axles ,g/box.swivels,everything,i do use it in the boat but not in the same ratio as the vehicles,due to the fact it consumes lots of oil,and gets more use than the vehicles.i think its about £15 a ltre at cost.and i use a 5to1 ratio,so that would be 6lt for the boat a bit ott i think.

[gritineye]

Thanks, PM would be nice, worth a look

[Davie]

Thanks for that Davie, I somehow thought that was the right thing to do, just too tight really. :-(

 

 

No problem at all, glad to be able to help.

[Tony B]

That long chin moly bobble, is the same sort of stuff as Slick 50. I've used it in old Land Rover engines and boxes, expensive but does appear to make a diffrence.

[N.O.S.]

Catweasel, could you pm me the moly coddle stuff info too please?:tup::

[Davie]

Well, I have contacted Andy Brown of Morris Lubricants technical department. He says to use Supreme 30 or to give it it's new name Golden Film SAE30. I am awaiting the sales dept. contacting me with price and local stockist.

 

 

 

 

Well, it's not cheap, but I didn't expect it to be. Available on line, click link below.

 

 

 

 

http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=165&product=Supreme+30+monograde

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

:-DWell i did warn you:-D

[Tony B]

Well, I have contacted Andy Brown of Morris Lubricants technical department. He says to use Supreme 30 or to give it it's new name Golden Film SAE30. I am awaiting the sales dept. contacting me with price and local stockist.

 

 

 

 

Well, it's not cheap, but I didn't expect it to be. Available on line, click link below.

 

As my old college machinery lecturer used to say 'Oil and grease are cheaper than parts and repair'. I've never known him be wrong.

[N.O.S.]

That long chin moly bobble, is the same sort of stuff as Slick 50. I've used it in old Land Rover engines and boxes, expensive but does appear to make a diffrence.

 

Slick 50 sounds more like a laxative, you sure it's for vehicles and not humans/horses?

[Tony B]

Leaving aside the old Snake Oil argumenats about additives. Slick is good stuff! Expensive but I find it helps an old tired engine. The stuff lines the engine with PTFE. Thus cutting the friction on internal componets. It does definitley quieten the gear boxes. On a rebuild I prefer to run the engine in quietly for 1500 miles or so and have at least one good run , before changing oil and adding it though.

[Adam Elsdon]

Another good drivetrain additive is Molyslip, its basically molybednum that mixes with oil and plates the friction surfaces. Added it to the gearbox, transfer box and diffs on a Landrover after changing the oil in all of the components a few weeks previously, the oil change made a difference in whine and thrashiness, but the molyslip just made it ten times better and it seemed to glide along....well about as good as an FFR series 3 would probably get, even stuck some in the steering box for good measure.

[Tony B]

Agreed and cheaper than Slick, but you do have to renew. All additives advise aginst use in limited slip diffs. Obvious really i suppose.