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Scammell Explorer Hub Nut Spanner


MIKES
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I need to make a hub nut spanner suitable for use on the Scammell Explorer rear hubs. I've got an illustration of the genuine TS.560 spanner to use as the basis but it would be useful to have some dimensions. Anyone have either a genuine one or home built copy that they could give some critical dimensions from? I know it's designed to be hit with a sledge hammer so needs to be substantial.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Mike

I managed to convert a heavy duty 4 inch ring spanner l found by putting a couple of bends in the shaft of the spanner to clear the wheel studs , l will dug mine out and photograph it for you , the hub nut is the easy bit, the hub takes a few tons of pressure to pull off the tapered shaft and will require a heavy duty puller .

Regards  Butch 

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Hello Gary,

I measured the nut and it was spot on 100mm so a tad under 4" but if a 4" fits then perhaps that's what I should be hunting for. Have a large open ended spanner which has been opened-out to suit but even with an offset in the handle, it clashes with the wheel studs so can't be used square-on so less than ideal.

Did wonder why the nut would be a metric size across the flats.

The hub on this Explorer (not my one) didn't need a puller as the nut had been loose and the whole lot nearly fell off with the wheel. Where it had been loose, the two keys had taken a bit of a battering so I've had to buy some key steel and make new ones. 

I do have a home-made version of the original puller so hopefully will be useful. 

 

Cheers

 

Mike.

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Back in the 70's/80's I worked on Explorers when they were still in service. We had the hub tools, the spanner resembled a large tube, probably at least 5 inches in diameter and from memory a couple of foot long, one end had the hexagon ring in it to fit the nut, the other end had a very thick steel bar welded at one end to the tube, about 3 feet long. There was also a heavy length of timber, cross section similar to a railway sleeper with one end radiused concave. This was stood on end to support the bar end of the tube. One man would hold the spanner on to the nut and down on the block with the other man wielding a 14 pound sledge hammer on the end of the bar. That is how tight it had to be. Once the nut is off, the hub puller consisted of a modified axle hub cap with a large diameter screw threaded in to it, with the hexagon head same size as the hub nut. Spanner and block refitted and sledge hammer applied again to release the hub off the taper.

The hubs have to be very tight as the key should not be taking the load, it is the taper fit that does that. If slack the tapers will wear and never lock together. I recall having to replace badly worn shaft and it took about 50 tons on the press to release it from the gear wheel. Hard work, but loved working on these old girls!

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Thank you gentlemen for taking the time to reply. Radio Mike is spot-on with the 2 3/4" BSF size and I've decided to get a laser cut blank (about 1" thick) to suit and weld this to a piece of tube and add the hammer bar so it kind of replicates the genuine tool. 

Ploughman, unfortunately  a slogging spanner won't work due to clashing with the wheel studs. Would have been a good solution otherwise.

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100mm impact sockets are readily available in standard and deep lengths in 1"and 1.5" square drive from Impact Socket Supplies, albeit not cheap. (ISS are fairly generous with discounts if you ask nicely though).

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On 7/10/2021 at 1:36 PM, radiomike7 said:

Given up on linking to the post so here are the genuine tools, note the stand which takes the place of the timber that Richard mentioned.

 

 

 

 

image.png

Pure Scammell porn. Just wonder where they all went to. Looks like the slogging bit of the hub nut spanner is about 2 foot long. 

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1 hour ago, MIKES said:

Pure Scammell porn. Just wonder where they all went to. Looks like the slogging bit of the hub nut spanner is about 2 foot long. 

Yes, needs to be at least 2 foot long and thick so you can use a 14 pound sledgehammer to tighten it.

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