Foden FH70 refurb restoration

[Motleyholt]

It's busy season with work so the Foden is having a little time off, but have been doing some form filling and hopefully will result in a couple of number plates.

The handbook provided most of the information. With luck I've filled it in correctly and with enough information to get the job done. Time will tell.

Think I've also found a gearbox for spare parts too.

[Motleyholt]

Finally found some time to do a little Foden work. Went for an instant gratification job by repairing the speedometer. It was working fine and then the milometer stopped working.

Screws out and the dash pulls out about an inch. There are so many cables and air pipes it's  a tight squeeze to undo the speedo cable. Then you have about three inches of space to play with. Two thumb screws, two bulbs and the speedo is out.

Scraped off the soggy rubber gasket. Will need to find or make a replacement,  maybe a thin O ring? Twist the bezel to release the glass, undo the two screws on the back.

On turning the drive it quickly became apparent that the drive had seized and the gear had stripped. A pick was needed to release the clip.

Luckily my spare dash has a speedo that donated a gear drive.

Reassembled with a little fresh lubrication and it works perfectly again. Whist apart it seemed a good idea to paint the bezel. As the glass seemed to be properly stuck I opted for masking rather than possibly breaking it. A bit of prep and ready for a coat of paint.

Ready for Reassembly tomorrow. 

Also serviced the pto switch which relentlessly leaked air each time it was used.

Stripped

Cleaned, replace seal, lubricated.

And reassembled. 

Also whilst the dash was out I removed the blanking plate for the second pto switch. A future project is to fit the winch I have which requires a second hydraulic pump. The second switch had already been liberated from the donor cab and refurbished. Just need to connect from the switch to the connector under the cab. 

So several small jobs almost complete

[Motleyholt]

Speedo unwrapped and reassembled today.

Refitted to the dash.

Everything else looks decidedly shabby now so did a little bit of cleaning.

Much better. Just the other six gauges to clean and paint the bezels on. I replaced all the mounting screws on the dash and heater controls. Does any one have a supplier for the textured paint used on the dash and heater controls? The heater controls have lost most of their paint over the years.

And cleaned all the bolts from the props, chassis and gearbox in readiness for its reassembly. 

And that's as much as I have achieved today.

Edited August 30, 2021 by Motleyholt
Dodgy English!

[john1950]

Such patience.

[radiomike7]

Have you looked at Hammerite  hammer finish, looks better in black than other colours?

[Longen]

Is the textured surface like the dashboard on a mgb. The paint is called "crinkle paint" and is available from the mg owners club amongst other places.

[Motleyholt]

2 hours ago, Longen said:

Is the textured surface like the dashboard on a mgb. The paint is called "crinkle paint" and is available from the mg owners club amongst other places.

Yes I think it's very similar if not the same. Thank you for the info I'll be googling it to compare.

[Motleyholt]

A little excessive but the gearbox spares arrived today.....

I now have an excess of pumps, pto's and props!

Pulled the range change selector off to assess the parts I require.

All good with no signs of heat damage. Interestingly it's a different design to mine being machined from steel rather than cast or more likely sintered.

I think I know why mine was not working properly. One of the spring pins in the centre of the hub didn't move freely due to the hole being slightly off centre.

  

If the pin doesn't retract then it will not engage. I think the donor box has been overhauled as the syncro teeth have been dressed which is common on a rebuild. So hopefully the syncro is a later type. The outer part of the syncro doesn't appear to have the friction coating that mine has either.

If you can see it.

So after my week away I will endeavour to bring all the good bits together. Then reassemble the spare box and fill it with oil for storage. You never know when you may need one!

 

[Zuffen]

You can never have too many spare parts.

[Motleyholt]

Hi all, time for a quick update. After a break in Cornwall I returned to a mass of customer MOT'S. After last year when all tests stopped for several months they now are all piled up together. So progress on the Foden has been slow to non existent.

The donor box got robbed of parts and they were rebuilt into mine, took a bit of persuading to split the donor. Jack's, pry bars and a big copper hammer. 

gaskets were measured.

Gasket sheet selected and ball pein hammer at the ready.

  

The centre cut out was then used to make the selector housing Gasket.

Reassemble syncro and fit Gasket to studs.

As the manual would say reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.....

As the air valve above the box is more inaccessible it got the full refurb. The exhaust seal was perished so a screw was fitted to replace the rubber button.

  

All holes plugged and a blast off.

Etch primed and then greened.

  

Refitted. Will get another coat when the chassis gets a full paint in the future.

Just need a log book now so I can fit number plates and go for a full test drive.......

......post arrived and an envelope from the DVLA. Excitedly I open it to reveal my new registration number, only to find all my original documents returned with a cover letter asking for the import docs????? And a suggestion that I should send a bigger cheque to tax it as a commercial rather than a private HGV??? And they would like more dating proof even though the MOD release doc was included. A long wait ensued whilst I got through to someone at the DVLA and they were slightly bemused and said to return the docs with a covering letter explaining its not been imported, I really don't wish to use it commercially and the dating evidence is already there. Also included a close up pic of the chassis plate with chassis number and date of manufacture.  Fingers crossed for take two. At least they sent an envelope to return it in.

Edited November 12, 2021 by Motleyholt
Reordered the pics

[Motleyholt]

Hi all, finally got a couple of hours to work on the Foden. Decided to finish the servicing by changing the hub oil. Hoping I'll get a reg document eventually so I can give her a thorough shake down on the road. So I'm avoiding the larger jobs until then, such as the crane pins, cab doors, scuttle panel, cab floor.....you understand how it goes.

Jacked each wheel and rotated the drain hole to the bottom. Wedged an empty oil drum with funnel under and pulled the plug.

The backs were reasonable, the fronts were nasty.

 

Then I remembered you remove one of the drive flange bolts to drain. The one marked drain here!

Had a cup of tea whilst it all drained and came back to a puddle of oil where one of the drums had self righted. Once cleaned up the drain bolts were refitted with a spot of sealant and fresh oil pumped in. Barrel pump is invaluable for these jobs. Refit the level plugs and the full lube service is complete. Will soon be a year in my ownership, where does all the time go???

 

[TJSB]

Been watching this with interest.  Most impressive.  For filling hubs and axles, I have taken an old gas bottle.  The fitting at the top is the filler hole, and when full, it has a soldered copper pipe which screws into the original thread.   The outlet of this goes on a suitably long flexible hose with a tap in the end.  A Schrader valve is tapped into the gas bottle.  So, just add a few psi of air pressure and you can then climb under a vehicle and simply turn the tap, giving full control. Works from Land Rovers to Scammells.

Toby

Edited November 1, 2021 by TJSB
Typos

[Motleyholt]

After many months of waiting the most exciting piece of paper arrived in the post, only slightly marred by the dog getting to it first. As you would expect every other piece of junk mail was untouched.....

Will have some regular number plates made until I source some nice pressed ally black ones made. Does anyone have recommendations for good quality pressed plate suppliers?

They have put it as historic vehicle for tax class, which I'm not sure is correct? I put private HGV on the application. Would that make it tax exempt??

I feel a trip to the fuel station will be necessary very soon and the shakedown can begin. See what falls off first!

[radiomike7]

Over 40 years old so historic and tax exempt.

[utt61]

The only issue you may have with it being in the "historic vehicle" classification is that you cannot use it in connection with a trade or business. If it is a plaything all is well, and you can use it laden, but not for your own or anyone else's profit or reward.

 

Isn't is strange how a dog can unerringly find the most valuable item of mail amongst a pile of junk and unimportant stuff, and then choose to chew that one alone?  

[Motleyholt]

Evening all, thought I should reconnect the heaters for the rapidly deteriorating weather. As with all simple jobs it got out of hand! One of the previously working motors decided it would now pop the trip after thirty seconds running. A quick shop at Xmod had a new motor in the post.

 

the fan had stuck on solid somehow, in the space of a few weeks. Came off with a little persuading and the new motor was fitted and given a bit of green.

 

Put it all back on the truck and discovered the second error. Can you spot it?

yep I managed to swap the fans during the rebuild! Should be rotating forward at the top but were running backwards. So out with both motors and swap sides. Finally two fully functioning fans. Just need to reconnect the water pipes to the engine. 

This can wait for a dry day and in the meantime I've addressed another air leak that's progressed from very slight to stopping the air building up fully. The air powered wiper motor. I've not played with one before so a new adventure. It lives under the dash so I jumped in the donor cab to work out how to access it and also to remove the motor and switch for research.

Then back in my cab armed with my new found knowledge. The sun visor guide rods unclipped at the top and slide out, four bolts along the dash top by the screen, two under the dash and one behind the heater control.

Remove the grab handle by the passenger door and the dash will slide and lift enough to reach the motor.

Marked the pipes for easy reassembly with a couple of coloured cable ties.

unclipped the rods, disconnect the pipes and undo the six bolts that hold it in.

Hey presto the world's heaviest wiper motor. It has a constant air feed, then a second feed from the switch for slow speed and a second supply that opens a valve for high speed. Hooked it up on the bench using the donor cab switch and pipes.

 

Just need to take it apart and hope its not an irreplaceable part that's needed. There is the spare motor but this has already been apart in the past and only works on one speed.

I've snuck it home with a few sockets so I can strip it in the warm.

More tomorrow.

 

[Motleyholt]

Today was a day of discovery taking part my first trico pneumatic wiper motor. Had no idea what was inside. Took plenty of pics as had an inkling that it would pay dividends on reassembly.

 

Removed the arm and top cover to reveal the travel adjuster.

The top section is supposed to be locked to the shaft with a grub screw but the plastic is cracked. The second piece under it has serrations which lock into the top and is held by a spring underneath. The two sections have lugs which operate the shaft at the top of the pic which changes the wipers direction. I assume a special tool is used through the slots in the outer casing to depress the lower ring against the spring and turn it to adjust the travel. This will be handy as my wipers don't have enough travel. 

Under the next piece of housing are the pilot valves, one sliding and one rotating. Rotating attaches to the top shaft in the previous pic and the sliding one I believe is the speed change.

next I took the round hosing off. I hindsight I should have taken the next plate off and removed the shaft first but it worked the same.

next plate and shaft removed.

Later I discovered the main shuttle valve but I'll need a pair of pliers and compressed air to extract and we don't have either in the kitchen. In my ideal home this would obviously not be the case 🤣.

After some cleaning a couple of candidates for air leakage were found. The main piston case.

Had quite a few lumps and bumps. Took some fine wet and dry to it and came back nicely but this did show up a potential crack or cold shut from casting.

Second possible leak, but shouldn't leak from the exhaust, is the sliding pilot valve.

bottom right corner not quite flat. Out with some tooth paste and lap the two surfaces together. A process my dad used on mammod steam train pistons to get a perfect steam proof fit.

 

Being a plastic moulding it didn't take long either.

all the seals were good and flexible still. The gaskets are cork so will hopefully seal again as I don't fancy cutting them out! I popped the cover off the spare motor to look for a not so cracked travel adjuster....

....nope same as mine, cracked where the grub screw goes through. Must be a weak spot. Still functions though so it will have to stay.

Reassembled with the usual rubber grease and ready for a bench test back at the workshop tomorrow. 

There is a tensioning roller that holds the rack against the shaft, top centre above, that is held in with two screws. They are a bit on the short side and screwed into cast holes. One of the threads decided to give up but hopefully a 5mm longer screw will fix this.

I'll also pop out the valve, clean and regrease it.

Just incase it doesn't work I found a new old stock motor on the auction site. At £20 it had to be purchased. Much more fun repairing mine though.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 28, 2021 by Motleyholt
Couple of missing letters

[Motleyholt]

Fitted the longer screws and tested the wiper motor. 

 

 

Success no more air leaks. Then spent an hour fitting, removing, fitting, removing to adjust the travel. Now I have wipers that clear the whole screen and park somewhere near the bottom. Dash to refit once I've dealt with a couple of rust spots. And then reconnect the heater hoses. A few more steps complete.

[Citroman]

This thing is more complicated as my car's engine 😂

[Motleyholt]

On 11/30/2021 at 3:46 PM, Citroman said:

This thing is more complicated as my car's engine 😂

Probably cost as much as the engine to manufacture too, would be so much simpler with an electric motor 🤣

[attleej]

Yes, but you cannot burn-out an air powered wiper motor and the fuse can't blow!

 

John

[Motleyholt]

Rust proofed behind the dash and went to refit the dash panel. Last bolt decided it would snap the weld nut from under the dash and as sods law dictates its the only one that you can't get at from the other side. So I'll need to get a cutting disc to the bolt and fit a rivinut. 

In disgust I abandoned that for the moment and headed to the opposite end to repair the locker box doors that flap around due to broken hinges.

 

Unbolted the bits

assembled a suitable selection of tools

straightened the hinge, cooked it and worked it until it all freed off. Quick trip to the blast cabinet.

And a bit of cleaning to the other half if the hinge

Out with the small mig as the big mig is too heavy handed for this kind if job

I've had this inverter mig for about 12 years and apart from the rubbish power switch, which was swapped for a proper rotary switch, its been superb. Lightish weight, 200 amps and lives in my van. Will weld 0.5mm up to 6mm and thicker with some pre heating. 

Clamped the patient to the bench and used an offcut to level up the pieces

Carefully weld the right bits....

oops got carried away...out with the die grinder to remove the excess weld and release the hinge again 🙄

Weld the back for good measure

Grind it all back, clean and prime

Repeat for the opposite side locker.

What would have been in these lockers?

Any one know what tools were originally in the Foden? I assume I should have a cab bar, wheel brace, jack etc? Lots of clips in the passenger foot well but no idea what should be there.

 

[attleej]

I don't know about FH70 but lighter vehicles would have:

Jack (jack handle would probably be have to be stored elsewhere (passenger footwell?) due to length

Wheel brace but might be too long for box so stored elsewhere. (passenger footwell?)

Jacking block?

Tyre inflator hose

Tyre pressure gauge

Adjustable

Pliers?

Screw driver

Wire rope and chain assy?

 

All this kit would be listed in the CES (Complete Equipment Schedule) for the vehicle.  Of course, there would be much more for supporting the gun but that would be on the gun's CES.  User handbook might give stowage instructions.

John

[john1950]

There was a one of these trucks being transported on the M6 in south Cumbria this week. Apparently it had been a long term resident in Workington along with a MK3 Militant. 

[Motleyholt]

On 12/12/2021 at 10:25 AM, attleej said:

I don't know about FH70 but lighter vehicles would have:

Jack (jack handle would probably be have to be stored elsewhere (passenger footwell?) due to length

Wheel brace but might be too long for box so stored elsewhere. (passenger footwell?)

Jacking block?

Tyre inflator hose

Tyre pressure gauge

Adjustable

Pliers?

Screw driver

Wire rope and chain assy?

 

All this kit would be listed in the CES (Complete Equipment Schedule) for the vehicle.  Of course, there would be much more for supporting the gun but that would be on the gun's CES.  User handbook might give stowage instructions.

John

Had a look through the handbook and manual but nothing in either so CES is what I need, anyone have any leads for finding a copy? I know I need all the usual pick, shovel, extinguishers etc. Also I'm assuming there will be some lifting tackle for the hiab? There is storage for blocks for the crane legs that I can see on photo's on the Web. There are only a couple of jerry can holders in amongst the crane. I have plenty of jerry cans but would be nice to have some dated 1979!

I've found a couple of correct lens for the cab markers on flea Bay today.

Went for a drive yesterday to clear the cobwebs and see how the gear changes are after the box was taken apart. It's an improvement and range changes are much smother. Just need to work on the driver skills, only lost my gears once though when I missed a down shift 🤣.