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Home made track pads


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The other day I made 2 fv430 track pad moulds out of steel, after researching the correct type of polymer rubber to use with a shore hardness of A95, I purchased some.

I used an old backing plate with the rubber removed, sand blasted the backing plate to remove all the rust, bolted it in the mould, and poured in the polymer mix. Didn't add any black colouring, as this is just a prototype pad.

I put the moulds in a sealed tin and put on top of the radiators for 24 hrs, they were at a constant temperature of 35 c.

Thismorning I pressed the pad out of the mould, I was impressed how well it looked, seems identical to a new pad in looks and hardness.

Im going to make 5 half worn pads and put them on the abbot to see how well they do.

It was all very easy really.

Andrew

 

 

IMG_0898.HEIC

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25 minutes ago, diesel1 said:

The other day I made 2 fv430 track pad moulds out of steel, after researching the correct type of polymer rubber to use with a shore hardness of A95, I purchased some.

I used an old backing plate with the rubber removed, sand blasted the backing plate to remove all the rust, bolted it in the mould, and poured in the polymer mix. Didn't add any black colouring, as this is just a prototype pad.

I put the moulds in a sealed tin and put on top of the radiators for 24 hrs, they were at a constant temperature of 35 c.

Thismorning I pressed the pad out of the mould, I was impressed how well it looked, seems identical to a new pad in looks and hardness.

Im going to make 5 half worn pads and put them on the abbot to see how well they do.

It was all very easy really.

Andrew

 

 

IMG_0898.HEIC 628.04 kB · 6 downloads

Would look a lot better with the black pigment in it.

 

image.jpg

Edited by diesel1
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Hi Andrew,

How did you get on with the half worn pads? I was wondering if you would provide a little more information on the polymer rubber (supplier, storage, mixing and curing instructions.

As you know there is a universal track issue with CVRT's and I was wondering if this was something that could be adapted and applied to CVRT tracks.

Just a thought while I have some time and if you don’t mind sharing of course

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I've only done full pads at the moment, I did do a test piece by pouring some polymer into a mould sat on top of a old pad that had been cleaned up. It didn't seem to have much hold after it had set.

If recapping pads, the old pad needs to be cleaned up really well, then a special primer needs to be applied to the surface before pouring the polymer. I've got some on order from the USA,, cannot find anything similar in this country but I'm sure there will be somewhere.

I need to recap some pads and test them properly before making too many and finding there no good. Making a new pad is a lot better, but a recapped pad is a lot cheaper to make.

Im using a PMC-790 industrial liquid rubber compound .

Spray a wax based release agent in the mould and leave to dry, mix the part a and part b polymers together making sure they are above 23c, also the mould needs to be warm, once poured the polymer will start to set within 5 mins. I have a hot box for food, bought off eBay for £40, can be kept at a constant 50c for 24 hrs, will hold about 12 mounds.

Will post pics of the mounds tomorrow, easy to make, made another 2 in about 30mins the other day, I now have 10.

Cvrt pads will be very difficult to do, I've some need doing but will give it a miss!

Edited by diesel1
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To do the CVRT track you’d need to remove all the rubber from the link and remould it. You’d probably also need to replace the bushes. If the link is worn and the metal is thin then it’s scrap anyway.

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Doesn't sound like it's a goer, but if i can source bushes and they are not the price of gold :)

I haven't even looked at removing the rubber from the existing track, before a got a scrap track(s) to experiment on I thought I would ask a few questions. Like can I get the bushes :)

A thought just occured to me if you drilled a series of holes at angles into the existing rubber and then pored the rubber into the holes and on to make the "recap" if that would be strong enough rather than just "recapping" the pad...

Another question I will have to look into

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/2/2020 at 2:20 AM, SirLanceUK said:

Doesn't sound like it's a goer, but if i can source bushes and they are not the price of gold :)

I haven't even looked at removing the rubber from the existing track, before a got a scrap track(s) to experiment on I thought I would ask a few questions. Like can I get the bushes :)

A thought just occured to me if you drilled a series of holes at angles into the existing rubber and then pored the rubber into the holes and on to make the "recap" if that would be strong enough rather than just "recapping" the pad...

Another question I will have to look into

 

I noticed a fellow over on the FV430 forum who was drilling some holes for grip and "recapping" his pads with good results.  I imagine the same could be done for the CVR(T).  Indeed, it could be the bushes are shot which would make it not worth doing for now.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, teletech said:

 

It's the bonding primer that's hard to get, without it it won't work, polymer won't bond to rubber well enough without the primer, I've tried it.

A company in U.K. can supply me with the primer but it's £250 for just under a litre, they get it from the states, I've ordered some from the states and it's a lot cheap than that but still expensive. 

Plus, when the primer comes and say it doesn't work as well as it should then it's been a expensive lesson.

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I dont know if I put this elsewhere or just kept it to myself but I did contact Cook Defense and got this back

A set of CVR(T) track is currently circa £26,000 ex vat at this time depending on the exact quantity of links required.

ummm not sure I will be rushing to get some.

Lance

 

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