flyingfleasteve Posted October 19, 2021 Author Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/15/2021 at 8:28 PM, GSYBSA said: Looks amazing Steve, a lot of inspiration for me here for mine. 😀 Thank you! I bet you can’t wait to get stuck in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted October 19, 2021 Author Share Posted October 19, 2021 On 10/11/2021 at 6:45 PM, welbike said: Very nice Steve, I'd only matt chrome the clock blanking plate, all originals I had were like that. Is the Mansfield lable original on your saddle cover? could you take some pictures of that please, we're trying to get some made. Cheers, Lex Hi Lex, clock blanking plate taken care of 😉I have also attached some images of both the early and later type Mansfield saddle badge….. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Thanks Steve. I was guessing around 3" -4" so not as much as I thought. Lex will measure one of his too as a comparison. Typical Matchless though, as nothing is TYPICAL!! Cheers Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted October 19, 2021 Author Share Posted October 19, 2021 1 minute ago, Ron said: Thanks Steve. I was guessing around 3" -4" so not as much as I thought. Lex will measure one of his too as a comparison. Typical Matchless though, as nothing is TYPICAL!! Cheers Ron No problem! Totally agreed, nothing typical about Matchless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Thanks for the Mansfield stuff, but which badge to copy now?? I found 2 more badges, see all of them here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79x100 Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Based on the styles, I'd say the top, aluminium example is post-war. The next one down looks 1920s...the lighter -etched silver one with black background looks late thirties and is probably correct for early-war - and the bottom one perhaps early 1930s. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 This one on a Flea looks very much like the raised lettering on the second one down.......Put me down for a couple please. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Ah, I forgot about checking the Flea pictures! I will have a better look/see! When I have something made, I'd like to do it correct the first time, have been doing too much wrong lately! Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garys39 Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 On 10/19/2021 at 3:34 PM, Ron said: This one on a Flea looks very much like the raised lettering on the second one down.......Put me down for a couple please. Ron Interesting that the retaining rivets are smaller on this one, compared to the photos that Lex has posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Ah that's because they didn't want the extra weight of the bigger rivets on the parachute. 😊 Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 On 10/19/2021 at 3:34 PM, Ron said: This one on a Flea looks very much like the raised lettering on the second one down.......Put me down for a couple please. Ron The 1 hour ago, garys39 said: Interesting that the retaining rivets are smaller on this one, compared to the photos that Lex has posted. The photo of the second badge is mine, I am 99.9% sure I removed the badge from an original flea saddle which I later let go with a previous project. The rivets are a little bigger as I replaced them 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Ok, the second one, I can have those made, but will be in stainless, and it's the most difficult one to have made, but will not be infilled with black paint, you have to do that yourself. Any chance of a centre to centre (holes) distance? Thanks, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 It looks like brass to me Lex. Wouldn't that be just as easy? Or were they plated? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 It's probably stamped brass, and then nickel plated, but you's have to make dies for that, way too expensive! Etched brass, you cannot get the rippled background effect, but I had the steel contract plates done, and that worked in stainless. Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 I understand Lex. Great stuff. I'll take a couple of contract plates too for my Flea and ML if you still have some. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Ok, but they are at Jan's to see if they can be etched with contract info, will take awhile, have to make the drawings, for James and Flea. Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 (edited) So with the bike now competed! I wanted to take the time to send out a massive thank you to all participants in this thread, especially Ron and Lex. Without the fountain on knowledge supplied to me during the build, the bike would still be in hundreds of bits! It’s taken just over a year and many late nights and early mornings to complete but I am super pleased with the end result. I have a few project left in the pipeline so watch this space! Edited November 3, 2021 by flyingfleasteve Photos 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Pretty as a poodle with a new bow Steve! I'm guessing you haven't fired it up yet? Will it be the C10 next? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 Hi Ron. Thank you! No not fired it up yet, to scared to get it dirty 🙈 it would be a shame not to try though…. Yes it’s looking like the C10 is next in line, I have a newly purchased WD/C which needs ‘work’ but I vowed not to do a complete restoration on it just yet…. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 (edited) Well I've got a borrowed KC10 fork spring to get one copied for Lex's friend Tibo. But it doesn't look like you need one.?? I've recently revisited mine over a couple of issues and also I've just acquired some NOS cup and cone wheel bearings as mine were not that good when I restored the bike. Ron Edited November 3, 2021 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Nice result Steve!! mine is very used now, could do with a re-restore, but has to wait, my other one in the US has had some problems too, but I did ride it 2 years ago. (if you look carefull, you can see what's wrong!) Nice C10 too! we still have a clutch problem, Ron, how did you fix that on yours? Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Hi Lex. What a saga! I started off by oiling and re-routing the cable and replaced the cable return spring for a lighter one. Then took the cover off to inspect the clutch which I'd initially had all new cork inserts fitted. Found too much end float on the main shaft, so took the box out and fitted 37 thou of shims to remove the excess float. Ordered new C10 springs from Drags who sent me the wrong heavier springs, so I just fitted the old ones back.(The C model springs are unique and lighter than all the B and M models) I adjusted the spring tensions to just enough to not slip when kicking through compression. Clutch was still far too heavy. So I experimented with swapping lever blades around as there are 3 variations of pivot to nipple distance. I swapped the 1 1/16" lever for I think a 7/8" and the pull is now acceptable....Although still a bit heavier that I'd want in busy traffic. I Hate these 6 spring clutches!!! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 27 minutes ago, welbike said: (if you look carefull, you can see what's wrong!) Cheers, Lex Back mudguard? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Nope, well, it's a short ribbed one, for a 1941 G3WO, but I meant something else, something more electric! Roger on the clutch, I think I will go for the postwar 6 spring clutch, they say that it fits straight on, and works better, they have more plates. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 No instrument panel anywhere! Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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