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Restoration 4 - Matchless G3 Panel Tank


flyingfleasteve

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Today has been a productive afternoon after a few errors made last week. Whilst reaming the new small end bush I took my eye of the ball and over sized the hole 🙈

After taking a few days to obtain a new bush I today replaced it and reamed the new one with much better results!

The piston now fitted I popped the newly renovated and bored barrel on and started work on the timing gears.

The engine has been a labour of love but I am really starting to feel I am getting somewhere now! It just seams that every part needs work or felting 🙂

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Nice work Steve! and indeed a nice puller, I found one of these for magneto bearings, works a treat!

Also something I always warn people about, to check the piston ring gap, sometimes when the cylinder is bored, and the right size for the piston, the rings are too tight, and when warm, it will seize the piston, have had it a couple of times that the machinist didn't check that!

Lex

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3 hours ago, welbike said:

Nice work Steve! and indeed a nice puller, I found one of these for magneto bearings, works a treat!

Also something I always warn people about, to check the piston ring gap, sometimes when the cylinder is bored, and the right size for the piston, the rings are too tight, and when warm, it will seize the piston, have had it a couple of times that the machinist didn't check that!

Lex

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Thanks Lex.

When I had the barrel bored I proved the piston with rings fitted to ensure correct sizing, 🤞 

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Hi All. So with all of this unpredictable weather a long weekends bike trip has been cancelled. This has given me some free time to really get stuck in and get the G3 towards the finish line.

The engine build is advancing at a rate of knots with many components now fitted.

Battery carrier now back on too complete with my home made strap nut and bolt.

The original pushrods are past there best but I do have some later aluminium alternatives. Although slightly shorter there is plenty of adjustment to compensate for the shortfall in length but I am unsure if this is suitable?

I hoped to be able to install the carb also but after buying a ‘freshly rebuild’ carb I quickly found out it’s in need of a full overhaul and many new part very disappointing!

Next steps, clutch to go in and then order my next loads of parts.

 

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Nice work! Some people tend to think, putting in new gaskets, makes the carb "overhauled" I am just getting a carb ready for my G3, as the one on it, the top thread is stripped, and the ring keeps coming off.

I  found a replacement body, so not too difficult.

Lex

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Have we already discussed the G3 carb with its drip hole in the flange and not in the jet block?? I can't remember without looking back! Ron

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Indeed Chris. We were all looking forward to riding over to Sammy Millers today for our first jumble in nearly 18 months....But it's been canceled. Ron

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Morning all!


Yes we have discussed carbs before Ron......your totally right it has the drip hole in the flange. When I opened mine up to check it to my horror not even the slider would move up and down, the jet block has actually been slightly bent at some point and consequently pinching the slider 🙈

At this stage I don’t know if I can remedy it or whether it needs to be replaced...

Ron I cannot quite make it out on the doc you have posted, which is the correct needle/length? Mine has no. 6 stamped in it?

 

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Posted (edited)

The cork inserts need to be oiled, but I can't see anything that says to soak them, but it won't hurt to rub oil over them if they're new. However the modern inserts are friction material that will run in oil, but are best kept as dry as poss to my mind. Ron

Edited by Ron
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Posted (edited)

Yes, I agree with Ron, but it also depends who the supplier of the plates is, and what material they are made off.  Re. the carbs, I have found 2 numbers for the G3WO, 276B/1J and 276/400R, the last number is also a postwar M20 number, strange!  And what is the exact difference in the jetblock? have some NOS ones, and like to fit the right one.

Lex

Edited by welbike
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Posted (edited)

276B/1J would be the assembled carb and 276/400R would be the base mixing chamber as a spare part. Interestingly the doc above says to take the 276/400R and drill the drip hole which is fine if you know that part is going to that bike. If you were a MT/REME fitter who needs to replace a body, how would you know? I wonder if that modification was listed in an EMER? It then says to mark/remark the body 276B/1J so the chances are, if you have one marked 400R, it was a MT/REME level replacement from generic stores.

 

lots of invaluable info in that doc.

Edited by Chris Hall
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Steve the jet block can be distorted by heavy handed removal. A wooden or nylon drift as big as the carb body is best with the body being warmed up first to expand it. Too many heavy blows can belly the block out in the middle.

Lex when Martyn had my carb, he simply tapped a brass plug in the blead hole in the jet block.  Ron 

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