Jump to content

Restoration 4 - Matchless G3 Panel Tank


Recommended Posts

Thanks gents I shall investigate and report back.

I do have the orginal guard but rust worm has eaten the number plate area away 🙈 hears hoping mine is long enough to accept the number plate 🤞

Does the base of the number plate over shot the end of the mudguard, please?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 539
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Hi Ron, though I’d share with you an image of the original fuel tank, you can still see it attached to the fuel tap🙈😂

Hi All. After recently completing my James ML restoration idle hands set in again. I said to myself no more projects, but after the opportunity of an early Matchless G3 panel tank came up I

What the Hell's the matter with you Steve? Send it to Jan and he'll soon repair it for you😈 Ron

Posted Images

No as I said, my number plate is just above the end of the mudguard. Ron

PS. Mine is certainly a lot longer than the red one Lex showed.

Edited by Ron
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Ron. 
sorry I don’t know why I ask that question again, too many cocktails last night.🙈

Talking of tinware variances I have noticed that the tyre pump retainer, to stop the pump going into the back wheel, appear different on this image to some of the earlier matchless G3’s, I assume there must of been a few variances?

68C8570E-B6B0-4546-A093-8AB631D59CBE.jpeg

630FBDF2-F5FF-44D7-BB24-1F02690E639C.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tyre pump thingy should be curved, at least on my NOS guards the are, maybe someone stole the pump on that one in the b/w picture, and bent it?

Will take a picture from the back of my number plate, and measure from the rivets downwards, maybe time to document it all??

Have the short one on my US G3WO, but have an original long one, and will change it when I next visit, that reminds me, that I do have somewhere the remains of my mates Indian one, that could be used to lengthen others.

Lex

06112008832.jpg

Edited by welbike
Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, lenght from rivets to tip of guard should be 12" Ron, I think yours should not have the number plate holder, it had the WD rear lamp as in the above b/w picture. Or you need the longer guard, as you have the panel tank.

Lex

12inch from rivets to tip.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, that sounds about right, now I checked my spare one, that is in a bad way, and that is 12" too, but the holes for the numberplate holder are way up! see picture, this means it sits a lot higher!  I cannot see any welded holes, very strange, a third mudguard I have is exactly the same. the lowest hole may have been for a reflector? will check my period pictures in a mo.

Lex

IMG_1484.jpg

IMG_1486.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just checked my orginal rear guard and it does have the top number plate fixing holes close to the rivits, as per Rons. I have now just fitted my number plate in a similar position.

looking at the below detailed picture it appears that the rear number plate on both machines leaves quiet a sizeable space between the underside of the mudguard and the tip of the mudguard 🤔

586F93BB-B76C-40C9-8DD4-0BEDE96AF14F.jpeg

Edited by flyingfleasteve
Edit text
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I just checked! so now I have to change that!! the mudguards always break off near the rivets, that's why they later re-inforced it with a steel strip on the inside, I welded that on my mudguard, as it kept breaking up, but the bike was used hard! 

Ron, I found a picture of a paneltank with an early fag's end taillamp, so you can fit one of those, and sell the MT210 to Steve!

1939 G3 IWM H27772 - kopie.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, welbike said:

Yes, I just checked! so now I have to change that!! the mudguards always break off near the rivets, that's why they later re-inforced it with a steel strip on the inside, I welded that on my mudguard, as it kept breaking up, but the bike was used hard! 

Ron, I found a picture of a paneltank with an early fag's end taillamp, so you can fit one of those, and sell the MT210 to Steve!

1939 G3 IWM H27772 - kopie.jpg

Mt210 - Yes please 😉

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I stripped the paint off my NOS ammeter and it's bare brass underneath. I guess for a painted installation, maybe a car dash? I certainly don't want to risk dismantling it or the platers, so I've simply sprayed it with Simonize Wheel Silver. 

Ron

DSCF3531 (2).JPG

DSCF3535.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Found another ribbed rearguard (for my 1st contract G3L) that has a 10" distance from the rivets to the bottom, and it's not ribbed over most of that distance! strange! only a little bit at the bottom, maybe civillian prewar?

Lex

IMG_1493.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Ron said:

I stripped the paint off my NOS ammeter and it's bare brass underneath. I guess for a painted installation, maybe a car dash? I certainly don't want to risk dismantling it or the platers, so I've simply sprayed it with Simonize Wheel Silver. 

Ron

DSCF3531 (2).JPG

DSCF3535.JPG

Looks great Ron, the Simonize wheel silver is great, I use it frequently.

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Ron said:

The bottom of my number plate is about 1/4" above the bottom of the mudguard and you can see where the top bolts are in relation to the riveted cross piece.  Ron

DSCF3529.JPG

Ron, where did you route the tail lamp/brake light cables? Is there a small hole in the guard underneath of the plate?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is up the right side rear mudguard stay as in the B&W factory pictures, but instead of over the top to a fag end, it is under the mudguard behind the number plate. Ron

DSCF3162 (2).jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thinking restoring an ammeter was easy, sill me 🙈 I have finally got there and pleased with the end result, a little patina and fully operational. Some reference images before during and after should anyone fancy doing the same.👍 Just a original DC40 inspection lamp to to go to complete the set.......

 

E5D75EFE-601E-4744-944A-7260B18F0009.jpeg

537EEDAE-D887-46FD-B812-BA4C64512FF4.jpeg

4C0C186F-672E-4275-9927-225B4BA11AD1.jpeg

C40A5DE6-7A51-45B3-B3CA-65E2463DBB5B.jpeg

 

BF2B1145-A7EC-486D-B4A2-44498EFBBD30.jpeg

EADC8AFE-E82A-4FCC-A5F4-5156B963A445.jpeg

4C2822FB-CDB2-4719-B3B8-C499D762E7F1.jpeg

Edited by flyingfleasteve
Edit Photos
Link to post
Share on other sites

Very well done Steve. Mine had the four little bend out lugs to clip it into the panel (silly idea)  How is yours fixed? Also at the bottom of the brass bezel, where it meets the Bakelite base, I had to sand those three little lumps off to get it through the hole in the panel.

Ron

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...