flyingfleasteve Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 An early start sees the start of some light restoration to the battery carrier, the metal is really thin in places but I am quietly plodding on with it.......still plenty of work to do but I am pleased with the progress.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Good job, not an easy task on such thin metal and not the best place either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 Thanks Chris. Putting the new piece of metal in has certainly restored some rigidity back into it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Final rotten sections cut out and new sections welded in. It’s extremely thin in places so a fine layer of filler will be needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 The strap and carrier is now solid but there is now a fair amount of prep work to get this just right..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Wire wheel the rust off, a smear of body filler over the welds and then plenty of high build primer before W&D.👍 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 A bit more elbow grease Ron and it will be as good as new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 As I plod on with the battery carrier I have now taken delivery of a load more new nuts and bolts which means I can finally fit some more of the smaller components. Currently the headlamp shell I am using is a reproduction and as such not drilled for the cabling to enter or leave the bowl. I cannot seam to find a good enough picture which shows this? Can anyone shed some ‘light’ onto this for me, please? Can I ask, what is this shown on the glass of the headlamp? How can it be replicated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 My original headlamp has a hole about 3/8" diam in the center about 2 1/2" up from the edge of the bowl. Those early blackouts where simply cut from black manila card (available from Hobbycraft or online I guess) a half circle hole in the middle and placed behind the glass. The Lucas logo medallion is available from "Vintage Supplies" The factory picture has a switch panel so is different. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Looks great Ron! What size is your Lucas madallion, please? I love the gas detection paint, is that original ? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 6 minutes ago, flyingfleasteve said: Looks great Ron! What size is your Lucas madallion, please? I love the gas detection paint, is that original ? Steve I love those King of the Road badges. I remember them on the old gas lamps and Reed horns in my dads parts box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 If I remember the gas paint was often brush applied because it needed to be replaced regularly. The traces I’ve found inside lamps is yellow with the stuff exposed to air oxidising to a brown colour. Not sure what colour it turns when exposed to gas but I bet Ron knows and maybe even tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 There's 2 sorts of gas detection paint, 1939 to about 1941 it was canary yellow, after that it was the MK2 version, that is the mustard colour like Ron as, I do have several tins of the later type, but never found the early type yet, only on original parts. Lex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) Steve my Lucas badge is 7/8". My gas paint is the original stuff which came from John Tinley and I have a small amount in a jar. It's the mustard colour as you can see, which I prefer to that other gay colour!!😏 I think it turns pink or purple once in contact with gas. The whole gas mask and gas detection systems during the war were an unnecessary precaution, after lessons learnt from WW1, the Germans never used it. Ron Edited January 15, 2021 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 About ready for some primer... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 One of my previous restorations. My Triumph 3SW, thanks for sharing Barrie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Big leaps forward this weekend, the front mudguard is now on, front wheel back in, gearbox finished & levers on. I have managed to source a wartime dated regulator but I may swap this at a later date for a solid stat alternative, I am yet to find an early dates MRC1 to use as a donor. Looking at some period photos it appears the value lever is fitted on the outside of the combi clutch lever instead of immediately after the rubber bar grip.....this makes the decompression lever a little awkward to pull, when needed. What is the general consensus and what is correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 I've done my levers as the factory photo too. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) Thanks Ron! I think I will stick with that setup too! I am just now debating how to finish the control levers, should they have been cad plated originally? More new parts arriving yesterday, the saddle bungee kit...... Edited January 20, 2021 by flyingfleasteve Missing text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 The bungies look good Steve. The levers were dull chrome plated. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Ah, great, the saddle bungies, but still some DIY to do, make sure you don't use the lengths as noted in the VAOS parts list!! this is way too sloppy! And what whas the price for them? I need to do my second set of Big 4 saddles, that were just delivered yesterday! if not too much, I will just order them. Levers as Ron said, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Here's the VAOS info with the bungy lenghts. Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Thanks for that Lex. We have a starting point now. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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