TonyB 0 Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Just looked at the REME Museum site and promised myself a visit as soon as covid allows. We tried to find some photos of the M9 to no avail, but found some others which are interesting for another thread, so thanks for the nudge. I think the tracks last about 1,000 miles on hard surfaces but cross-country is more interesting. Have fun. I’m enjoying your project and the detail in the pics, well done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan stubbs 0 Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 Hi chris whats the condition of the engine? Will it be a total strip down and complete rebuild? Best wishes with it Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hall 33 Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 I’m thinking I will be purchasing a crate engine from BAIV. The engine that came installed needs a lot of work. At best it needs a rebore due to the cylinders being corroded, 2 very badly. The generator needs new bearings, the carb is rusted solid and the distributor is also solid with only the shell being salvageable. For the cost of having it rebuilt (or the parts for) I would likely save money by buying one of BAIVs surplus rebuilt stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Citroman 24 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 Did find another pic of the dutch overhead cable constructors in our newpaper archive. Looks like a crane on this one. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Herbert 25 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 I don't think that that is a crane but a tower that erects itself. It does not seem to have any pulleys at the top (which is the free end nearest the ground) so I guess there was a cage or platform that climbed the tower under its own power. All the mechanism visible seems to be purely for raising and unfolding the two sections of the tower. David 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Surveyor 17 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 How about this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timbo33 0 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 (edited) Hi Chris, I'm a newbie here so just started reading your fascinating thread. Do you still need a steel supplier or did you source your armour plate? I have a client runs AJ Steels in Coventry - I can ask him - what plate sizes do you need? Edited February 11 by timbo33 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hall 33 Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 I’ve managed to get some thanks, a local place called laserfab. It was only £240 for the rear panel (huge) 2 side panels (1/2 as huge), 2 doors and a panel to fit under the rear. I was getting quotes for £1000 just for the rear panel! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hall 33 Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Not updated much recently due to the weather and kids. I used my 2 original panels to get the dimensions for the screw holes on my 2 new panels and found something was wrong. Im about a 1/4” out in length but I don’t think it’s my repro plates. I’ve stripped the right side track armour out with the intention of cleaning the joins of rust and crud in the hope of re-gaining that 1/4” at the rear. What I found was that the track armour attaches to the Maxson bed at the bottom only; and without the rigidity of the side armour, it allowed the track armour to sag. Then with the track armour sagging, it let muck accumulate between the bed and the armour plate. This in turn trapped water and the steel had swollen quite a bit. So I’ve been spending most of my time removing every part and blasting each ready for reassembly. This will be a dry fit so I’m leaving in primer for fitting up of the armour. My new plan is to assemble everything into a complete track before disassembling again for painting fully. The photos show the gap between the track armour and back plate, the removed right side track armour (corrosion and crap on the vertical plate), the external gap in the rear left corner and then how it should be. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Morris C8 21 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Original colour slide from my collection. Korea. Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hall 33 Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Great photo, can you make out the number on the original? It looks like it may have been stuck nose down in a ditch and then used the winch to pull out. The damage to the bumper suggests the only way to get out was to put the cable over the bumper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ltwtbarmy 11 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 11 hours ago, Chris Hall said: Great photo, can you make out the number on the original? USA 4061613. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Morris C8 21 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Yep Itwtbarmy it is USA 4061613 . Here is a close up. Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hall 33 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 I’ve been wire wheeling and painting when I can this last week, it’s only a temporary measure to test fit the rear armour before I strip and shot blast. I also re-fitted the repaired Delco Remy trailer socket cover and some other repaired parts. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.