gary0003 Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 My 1944 WD/CO is a real pain to get running. The carb has been re-built and it is all the correct jets/settings. It seems to flood very easily. Once it is going it runs really well - just a real pain to get it going! Thanks Gary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cull Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 If it runs well once going then you have to assume that valve and ignition timing are good and the engine is generally healthy. Poor starting then points towards ignition - A weak spark.Are the gaps correct in both spark plug and magneto points. Are the points clean in the mag ? A spark at the plug when its laying on the cylinder head may not be any good under compression. A failing condensor,HT windings, dirty HT pickup or sticking points can all lead to a weak spark. Often failing HT windings show up more when the engine is hot. Once you are used to the bike's preferences for its starting ritual it ought really fire up withing one or two kicks,hot or cold. My Matchless G3l never needs tickling,just air lever closed,a few slow rotations with the valve lifter pulled. A little bit of ignition advance and a long swinging kick and its away,hardly ever more than one kick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Just a few thoughts, have you got the correct retard/advance fitted to the magdyno? There’s a slack and tight version and can be mixed up. do you leave the engine on TDC? Does it smoke on start up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary0003 Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Thanks for all your help. I think I may have solved it - I checked everything today and and the plug was very sooty and the points had closed up a bit. I have re-set the points, cleaned and gapped the plug and lowered the needle a notch and it started first kick! Haven't got time to go for a test ride today though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 How’s it running, I remembered another issue with the carb, there’s 2 different depth nuts. If I remember correctly the incorrect one can cause your issues, especially if dropping the float one notch appears to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary0003 Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 Hi Chris, I take it you mean the nut that attaches the float bowl to the carb? How do I know if I have the correct one or not? Haven't yet had the chance to go for another run yet - so I'll let you know. Thanks Gary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Yes, it’s the big nut that holds the jet block in and the float bowl bolt screws into. I can’t actually remember which is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 It's the short nut on a CO/G/L! The hex is right under the threaded part. The second picture for comparison is the long nut on my Ariel W/NG. (angled carb) Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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