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Restoration 3 - 1943 James ML

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If I've got my calculations right. The bottom rung on a war time stand is 3.8" from the ground So measuring what you have against that should give an idea of spring length base on the spring I posted. Ron

ML Parts8.jpg

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So the front hub is now rebuilt, and the investment of time has been well worth it, the wheel fits perfectly and spins like a top! Rear wheel next!

First attempt ... Approved or ?? I also make the screw and nut, but if they can be bought cheaper then I do it instead.   

Thanks Ferg but I'll pass on the hat! I've never wanted to be involved with the UK Mason's let alone the madness of the US lot!! My early MK1 ended up in India from where it was repatriated by Pe

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Thank you gents, really helpful indeed!!

all these little nuggets are a massive help!

I have been spending the last 72 hours cleaning/prepping and spraying some of the last components.......just the tank, wheels and seat frame to do!

Although a very rewarding build, preparing each part by hand, down to each individual grease nipple, has taken me a fair amount longer than I anticipated. I still refuse to take any shortcuts.......






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I note your air cleaner is not quite the correct one Steve.....Terry or Drew at "Metal Magic" made some replica examples last year that come complete with the proper printed Villiers plate. They were copied from a new-old-stock original I had....They may still have some...01189 731631.....

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Yes the Coopers filter has the raised lettering but the correct Air-maze filter has the flat name plate. Arnaud in France makes the plate also and I sanded down my ML Coopers filter end enough to loose the lettering under some heavy coats of paint before fitting the Air-maze disc. 


MLLightweights 353.JPG

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Many of the newly painted parts are now fitted, most of the engine is built, exhaust on, things are really starting To come together. You may well note the carb is still unpainted, the reason for this is I wanted to preserve and show the original OD paint, I may well paint it at the end as it’s a little shiny but let’s get the bike together first......






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As I start to think about the last few jobs, I believe I have the correct Lodge ignition cap and resistor. I would dearly like to add an immobiliser to complete the set up, I know they are rare, one anyone be able to point me in the right direction? Thank you in advance!

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Steve, you are correct in saying they are rare.........I have used a couple of originals in the past but the best thing today is to make up a replica out of suitable black-rubber tubing glued together and slip it on over the HT lead........

It's a really good idea not to add any "obstruction" in the current of the HT lead as this can affect the quality of the spark delivered........best to use the hollowed-out resistor and just an immobiliser false/replica cover.....


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I just remembered I'd taken a picture and made measurements for someone before. I didn't bother to take the female half of the brass connector out as it will need some gentle teasing. When I fit it one day, I'll do as I've done before and as Steve suggests, leave the connector out and slide it on the HT lead with a blob of silicon. (Same as I do with the suppressors)

The diameters are approximate as the moldings are irregular. I'm expecting some batteries from Arnaud and I  have asked him if he has one or any of his repro immobilizers left.   Ron



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Thanks Ron.

Thats Great!

So I have finally prepped the last of my parts, excluding the wheels.

The petrol tank was in pretty bad shape but it’s starting to come good......you will note the postwar James transfer still on the tank.

intriguingly the first WD paint on this tank was Service brown then painted over with Olive Drab. This was the same as the wheel hubs, why might that be?






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The last few bits now painted I am just waiting for the paint to dry before fitting. The tank has proven difficult to get right but the end result is nice! 

Just a few missing bits left to source. 

Rear brake rod arm.

Front lower brake rod (I have all of the cables and adjusters)

Rear wheel sprocket 

I am unsure if these are still available or not? I may need to make them?



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