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Fantastic job.  Before and after pics just do it for you.

As for spray gun choice.  One slightly battered and well used Sealey gun.  Must be getting on for 20 years old now, wasn't that expensive, but lovely tool.  Wouldn't change it for the world. 

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Just had a look and mine is a Sealey gun. For the price it has done really well. I recall a lot of my friends advised going for expensive guns but as a novice I wanted to dip my toe in before taking the plunge as they say!

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I have a question about paint and thinners, I accidentally mixed some cellulose thinners with the paint but luckily spotted it before I used it, the paint seemed to react with the thinners and after having a bad experience with a high solvent

thinners pickling paint a few years ago on another project I didn’t want to take the chance, does anyone know if its ok to use Also is there any advice for setting up a spray gun, I have an old school siphon feed Gun but it was a nightmare to set up, liquid feed adjustment made no difference, fan adjustment was either bullseye or full fan, air pressure turned down, air pressure turned up, absolute pain in the backside!!

You will find your new top feed gun a much better piece of kit to use, it maintains a stable fan over a wide range of gun angles.and will use less air to do it.

I noticed your comment that the cellulose reacted with the paint when you mixed it I'm curious as to what you saw happen and the important question here is what ratio of thinner to paint direct from the can did you use ?

Pete

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Morning Pete

The ratio was probably only about 10% as I stopped pouring, the reaction was that paint started to swirl as if it was about to bubble, I’ve been told the cellulose thinners is high solvent and that this may have something to do with it, it did mix in and the paint looks  fine but as I said before I’ve had paint pickle due to high solvent which made a proper mess and I didn’t want to take the chance. 
 

I might use this paint on smaller items and see what happens. 
 

Seamus 

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I use War Paint G3 15% sheen on several projects and thin with a universal cellulose thinner for spraying at not more than 20% by volume straight from the can I usually work at around 10 to 15% at around 25 to 35 psi at the gun.  Don't be concerned about the cure time it can take up to 3 months for single pack synthetic enamels to cure fully which ever thinner you use.

 You have to be careful not to thin to much as the heavy pigments can separate but providing it's stirred well before adding to the gun it works fine, I find by using cellulose the paint coat flashes off faster than using the normal Xylene based thinners.  A word of caution here is this has to be compatible with what ever undercoat system you are using if in doubt try a small area first and leave it 24hrs to see what happens. 

Couple of points you may consider,  when ever I get a new 5l batch of paint stir it well then split it down into new 5x 1l cans (cheap off ebay) that way you don't keep putting air back into the main stock and limit the risk of knocking the whole lot on the floor.

The other point is I have two sizes of top feed gun a stock standard one for large areas and a small 250ml one for small parts and tight corners it saves on wasted paint if you are only doing small parts

Pete

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Just a minor detail, For some reason, you have to use a Civilian type pick axe on a British Ford as an Army style one won't fit. Found this out when I restored my WOT2. 

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34 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said:

I use War Paint G3 15% sheen on several projects and thin with a universal cellulose thinner for spraying at not more than 20% by volume straight from the can I usually work at around 10 to 15% at around 25 to 35 psi at the gun.  Don't be concerned about the cure time it can take up to 3 months for single pack synthetic enamels to cure fully which ever thinner you use.

 You have to be careful not to thin to much as the heavy pigments can separate but providing it's stirred well before adding to the gun it works fine, I find by using cellulose the paint coat flashes off faster than using the normal Xylene based thinners.  A word of caution here is this has to be compatible with what ever undercoat system you are using if in doubt try a small area first and leave it 24hrs to see what happens. 

Couple of points you may consider,  when ever I get a new 5l batch of paint stir it well then split it down into new 5x 1l cans (cheap off ebay) that way you don't keep putting air back into the main stock and limit the risk of knocking the whole lot on the floor.

The other point is I have two sizes of top feed gun a stock standard one for large areas and a small 250ml one for small parts and tight corners it saves on wasted paint if you are only doing small parts

Pete

Thank you for the pointers, it’s all a learning curve and much appreciated. 

 

7 minutes ago, woa2 said:

Just a minor detail, For some reason, you have to use a Civilian type pick axe on a British Ford as an Army style one won't fit. Found this out when I restored my WOT2. 

The great thing about this forum is the wealth of information available from other members, I would have never thought about the difference styles of pick axes, thank you. 
 

Seamus

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40 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

Thank you for the pointers, it’s all a learning curve and much appreciated. 

 

The great thing about this forum is the wealth of information available from other members, I would have never thought about the difference styles of pick axes, thank you. 
 

Seamus

I wonder why that is then?

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Progress is slow....

Having pretty much returned to full time work the rebuild has slowed considerably, I’ve managed to clean and paint some of the fittings that were removed before the welding started, the manual holder was in the worst condition with the bottom rotted out.

77FA66E7-5399-4880-8A2C-1836E77037ED.thumb.jpeg.d8aa6c79b07f33fa55d4c0fe1396456f.jpeg

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forgot to take a picture before repairs started, the bottom was non existent but the rest was salvageable.

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Due to the 4d engine now fitted the oil filter brackets are redundant but I am thinking of fitting a filter housing and pipes just to make it look original, I haven’t measured the diameter yet but a Jeep Filter housing might fit unless anyone has more knowledge and can point me in the right direction. 
 

The rest of the fittings cleaned and painted. 
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Posted (edited)

And now for something completely different...

At last I have moved away from bodywork 🎉 ( for now ) and attention has turned to the engine mounts, as most of you know this WOT6 has had a Ford 4d engine fitted by a previous owner but the conversion was never properly finished,  the adapter plate was done well enough but the engine mounting wasn’t quite right, the front of the engine was to high, it leaned to one side and was wedged tight against the chassis. 
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Bear with me as I digress slightly..

The gearbox was completely seized when I got the truck but after many hours and plenty of heat I was able to free it off..but the bearings are shot and it needs a rebuild, so the engine and box have to come out but I decided to redesign the engine mounts first, I didn’t want to rebuild the gearbox then mess about trying to refit the engine and box, at least doing it this way it will go straight in and job done. 
 

I decided to use Land Rover defender engine mounts, tried and tested mounts that can support the weight of a Land Rover Diesel engine and are readily available, I didn’t want to cut the original chassis mounts just in case I ever decided to refit a V8, although the previous owner had cut a small chunk out of one but it’s easily repairable. 
 

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Engine now sitting level and lower by a 1/2 inch 

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Edited by 67burwood
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Doing a great job, will be nice to see it on the road.

Don't want to hijack your thread, perhaps we could do with a painting thread, but i was interested by some peoples comments regarding painting, in particular what Pete Ashby said. I too use the Warpaints paint with 15% sheen after trying numerous others with differing results. I've always used the thinners that Warpaints sell and its always come out quite well, until i was painting the winch for our scammell a couple weeks ago and it came out quite matt. The pro painter chap next door said it could be because it was a particularly hot day. I might have to give using standard cellulose thinners a go. I was recommended to use Max Meyer 4310 thinner. I'm no pro when it comes to painting, what i do know is self taught and i learn by trial and error, so always interested in what others with more experience have to say.

Thanks, Richard

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Hi Richard 

feel free to ask as many paint questions as you like, I have had a lot of help on this thread from other members and plenty of good advice, it may be worth while starting another thread On paint as there will be lots of interest. 

I’ve had a similar experience, I purchased the correct thinners from War paints and the finish also came out Matt, it was a warm day and I think my air pressure was to high, the finish was almost rough to the touch and Matt, I’ve since used the paint that I accidentally mixed with cellulose thinners on small parts and the finish is satin and smooth, however it was cooler and I had adjusted the air pressure, I am still learning myself the art of spray painting but someone on the forum will tell us both where we went wrong. 
 

Seamus 

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School boy error...

had the day off work today and decided it was a good time to remove the engine and box, sounds straight forward!!...until you release your engine crane doesn’t lift high enough 🤨

5BEDF133-E38B-4F89-9E00-88498094CA20.thumb.jpeg.f8082d20051106dbc644ff3b039b8341.jpeg

 

So...what do you do...simple, adjust your lifting chain and take one of the front wheels off.

 

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just enough clearance 

 

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Need some help identifying the conversion plate, I’ve cleaned the paint back but I can’t make out the marking

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Also need help in locating a new gearbox mount, the one below is definitely past it’s sell by date.

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Gave the gearbox a good clean as it was full of sludge and muck, you can just make out the tide line where it had been full of water. 
8D0BAE97-8300-4799-860D-716C1AAD7CCA.thumb.jpeg.29d98827c8295b4c7cf48258bdde29a0.jpeg
 

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1 minute ago, MatchFuzee said:

Interesting use of the Ford script 'F' on the conversation plate. 

I seem to remember that ENFO stood for English Ford, but don’t quote me on that.

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I though it looked like the Ford F mark but haven’t see it used that way.

English Ford sounds familiar, it may have been mentioned earlier in this blog, if it is a Ford back plate could it be from the original V8?

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34 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

I though it looked like the Ford F mark but haven’t see it used that way.

English Ford sounds familiar, it may have been mentioned earlier in this blog, if it is a Ford back plate could it be from the original V8?

The gearbox is a standard Ford V8 flathead one, so probably original part of your Fordson. There should be a an air compressor mounted on the right side.

Edited by Duson
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The adaptor Is a proper Fordson part, although not from the wot, maybe from the 50’s as I think that was when the 4D engine was introduced. The 4D has a different shaped bellhousing to the v8

enfo was stamped on lots of Fordson parts, sort of the English Fordson equivalent of the scripted f found on jeeps etc I suppose.

Fordson Major tractors for example have got enfo stamped on all sorts of different parts

Edited by T.Watts
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2 hours ago, 67burwood said:

Hi Richard 

feel free to ask as many paint questions as you like, I have had a lot of help on this thread from other members and plenty of good advice, it may be worth while starting another thread On paint as there will be lots of interest. 

I’ve had a similar experience, I purchased the correct thinners from War paints and the finish also came out Matt, it was a warm day and I think my air pressure was to high, the finish was almost rough to the touch and Matt, I’ve since used the paint that I accidentally mixed with cellulose thinners on small parts and the finish is satin and smooth, however it was cooler and I had adjusted the air pressure, I am still learning myself the art of spray painting but someone on the forum will tell us both where we went wrong. 
 

Seamus 

Hi Seamus,

It’s good that you’ve had the same experience as me, and that you’ve found a solution. Of course the good thing about using cellulose thinners is its dirt cheap.

I was talking to another a friend yesterday about painting and he does a lot priming at his place of work because they do blasting and he said he painted some railings once when there was snow on the ground and got a lovely finish. Think my previous idea that the warmer the weather the better was probably wrong. 

I’ve got a batch of small bits to do for the Scammell so I’ll try the cellulose thinner. 

Cheers, Richard

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17 minutes ago, Duson said:

The gearbox is a standard Ford V8 flathead one, so probably original part of your Fordson. There should be a an air compressor mounted on the right side.

Yes the compressor is present, I removed it first so the engine and gearbox could come out together. 

 

12 minutes ago, T.Watts said:

The adaptor Is a proper Fordson part, although not from the wot, maybe from the 50’s as I think that was when the 4D engine was introduced. The 4D has a different shaped bellhousing to the v8

The adapter plate isn’t a perfect fit to the 4d, it doesn’t line up the bottom 3 bolts as the 4d back plate is slightly larger

 

5 minutes ago, Scammell4199 said:

It’s good that you’ve had the same experience as me, and that you’ve found a solution. Of course the good thing about using cellulose thinners is its dirt cheap.

Hi Richard, try the cellulose thinners and let me know how you get on, there may be another explanation but it was definitely a better finish. 

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