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Fordson WOT6


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On 1/11/2021 at 10:16 PM, 67burwood said:

Thank you Pierre, hopefully work will re-commence in the next few weeks. 
 

WOT stands for War Office Truck and 6 is its model number. 

WOT actually stands for W = War office, O = 1940  (start of WOT series production), T = Truck. 

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Robert,

Are you saying that there were no War Office Fords that started production before or after 1940 ? If your interpretation were correct there would be W9T and W1T, W2T etc plus the equivalent WxA and WxC designations.

David

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2 hours ago, woa2 said:

WOT actually stands for W = War office, O = 1940  (start of WOT series production), T = Truck. 

I am happy to stand corrected, my information came from my peers and google. 
 

if the O stands for 1940 is at actually O or 0 ? 🤔

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20 hours ago, 67burwood said:

I am happy to stand corrected, my information came from my peers and google. 
 

if the O stands for 1940 is at actually O or 0 ? 🤔

Nobody knows!!

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After many day’s, weeks and months of procrastinating!! I have finally pulled my finger out and started the roof 🎉🤨

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A couple of hours later I had a little cry and thought WHY!!

Those of you that have followed this blog from the beginning will remember just how rotten the lower section of the cab was......well..... the roof section doesn’t disappoint!! 🤔😭

 

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To make life easier I decided to split the cab into 3 sections, in its current state it’s impossible to work on as it risks collapsing due to the extent of the rot, if any of you are familiar with Land Rover truck cabs then you will know that the roof section unbolts from the rear section and of course the windscreen is separate, the main problem I had was that it was difficult to see its original construction because of previous bodged repairs, some areas were bolted but also had repairs welded to the same sections.

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Even though the roof was ready to fall apart on its own, it still took 3-4 hours of gentle persuasion not to cause anymore damage than necessary 

 

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not much left to work with but the timber support is in fair condition 

 

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Edited by 67burwood
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Well........... the plan is already in action !! ...... I’ve bought a massive sheet of steel, loads of cutting discs, loads of woven pad preparation wheels, a new shovel, broom and bigger scrap bucket!!

 

But on a serious note, I am starting with the rear section as it’s similar in construction to the lower cab, its in bad shape but doesn’t look to fiddly just time consuming ,  full steam ahead this Saturday....

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Slowly, slowly catchee monkey as they say, measure twice and cut once and all the other useful sayings people come out with.  Best of luck with it.  Shout up if you need a hand even if we can only provide verbal encouragement just now

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Welding gas advise needed !!!
 

I have an Adams hobby gas 5% mix bottle at the moment but it’s just about empty, my local stockiest only has 20% mix in stock , will this be ok for thin welding? ie 1.2 mm

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And so it begins...........

 

Finished work a bit early to day and got stuck in to rebuilding the cab

first up build a suitable bench, 8ft scaffold boards work a treat

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Access the damage

 

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I decided to strengthen the frame and make sure everything lined up as best it could before removing any of the outer skin, there was so much flex in the frame I didn’t want to risk loosing the shape by going at it like a bull in a china shop.

 

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All the welds still need cleaning up but the lower frame is now solid.

Attention is now turned to the upper frame, this section of cab has really suffered over the years and there are far more old bodged repairs than first expected.

 

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The top corners have previously been replaced and just haven’t stood the test of time, my plan is the replace these before the rusted skin is removed, this will allow me to follower the original curve or what’s left of it. 
 

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Finally the whole top section has previously been replaced but again it knackered, I’ve decided to replace this as well as it is part of the frame, it’s a stepped section which looks simple enough but was still tough to fold and keep neat just using angle iron and a vice.  
 

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6 hours ago, andy1960 said:

Fascinating thread....every day is a school day and I am learning lots  ..thanks for sharing...

Thank you for the complement, today’s process will be uploaded shortly. 

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Today’s progress report....

Didn’t quite get as far as I had planned but half the job is just working out how to tackle the problem, the main problem being some of the cab has rotted so badly there’s nothing to copy 🤨 but once you know what road your going down it’s fairly straight forward 🤥

 

what’s left of the top rail, this isn’t original but it’s the only thing I have to copy

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More panel work to replace 

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The rear supports are fairly solid with only one repair.

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Lined up the 3 new sections of frame and welded them in place

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Started making a repair section for one of the corners, it’s not finished yet but it’s nice and solid. 
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Now I have a welding question?? and I know there are plenty of experienced welders on this forum 

Why does my open weld run fine ( ish )

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But weld into a corner and it just don’t flow??

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what am I doing wrong? Is it a gas or wire speed issue ???

 

Edited by 67burwood
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Great work 67burwood,loving your fabrication methods & results.

I had to use the angle iron trick for some of my civvy Bedford body repairs & it works well.

Your right, with all this type of fab work it takes time to nut out how to tackle it.

I'm no expert on welding, but I'm sure someone on this forum will have the answer for you (& me).

Watching with great interest

cheers

Pierre

 

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Thank you Pierre. 
 

9 hours ago, Trooper 3/9 RAAC said:

I'm no expert on welding, but I'm sure someone on this forum will have the answer for you (& me).

Calling all welders, there’s now two of us that need advice 😬

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6 hours ago, 67burwood said:

Thank you Pierre. 
 

Calling all welders, there’s now two of us that need advice 😬

........make that THREE!

Looks like welding leason number 1 is..."We need clamps...lots of clamps!"

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On 1/30/2021 at 6:19 PM, 67burwood said:

But weld into a corner and it just don’t flow??

CA63597B-03AD-49E8-8C87-218E37ADADF9.thumb.jpeg.af1a78030fe6e4119872174bd6396bd9.jpeg

what am I doing wrong? Is it a gas or wire speed issue ???

 

Hi

A couple of observations / comments...

As you are welding old steel to new steel, the old steel may well have rust and other impurities that will stop a good flow

Also when welding  old to new steel. The old steel needs to be really really clean, clear of any rust and thoroughly de-greased (likewise for the new steel). If you don't do this then  rust will soon bubble through. (Learnt through experience)

Also good idea to give welded items a light coat of paint to prevent surface rust, especially important as it damp at the moment. Any small unseen voids can also be sealed with seam sealant.

Hope this helps

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