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It’s thin metal welding time!!  again🤨   Had  a few small repairs to carry out before the panels get painted  Bottom end of an engine bay panel, obviously a weak point as it’s been repaire

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Another way in obtaining new gears is if you look for the Dodge WC series gears , they are the same , or buy a cheap used dodge gear box , and take the gears out , this will widen your search area , and prices .I even have seen French made gears .

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My Canadian Universal Carrier is fitted with a gearbox from a WOT6 (Part No on the casing is:WOT6 7006 17H), so the WOT6 gearbox is definitely compatible with Carriers (that or my gear ratios will be completely wrong!). LWD Parts has some gearbox spares, under the Carrier and Ford CMP sections, which may be suitable for you.

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Thanks for the info guys, it would appear these gearbox’s are more common than I though, I have now obtained the rear gearbox mount thanks to Super6 and I’ve been offered a complete gearbox from an ET6 which I believe are the same, I will keep you posted on how I get on. 

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1 hour ago, Pete Ashby said:

I would suggest you look at the Canadian Ford CMP gearbox as a possible option 

Pete

I will add it to the list, many thanks

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Posted (edited)

So.....not much happening at the moment but this arrived in the post today, it was spotted by super6 , nos rear gearbox mount  

D822DEA2-49E6-420C-BC3F-FD7DC3E256F9.thumb.jpeg.cc8ddddd1e8f69ee2ec10ff16a3c8780.jpeg

Nice F mark

91B8FEA4-EEC2-41BE-BB2B-0FEC7AC24C7B.thumb.jpeg.8f39eee52fdf970391f8ceab6c4fbc36.jpeg

seams a pity to remove the original label 

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Slightly better condition than the previous one 

1E860065-9FCE-40AE-A7F5-6F5B5F504EEC.thumb.jpeg.6cd94770bbd229fce74c74f83113827f.jpeg

 

slight change of subject, I was clearing out a garage of a recently deceased family friend and came across a couple of tools that I can’t identify, any ideas?

A5CCC88F-D500-43C7-AE94-4A9321E4DE06.thumb.jpeg.544e8d4209d3249e147ec9511c15c398.jpeg

CFC487FA-B723-499E-8AEB-3698922BDB10.thumb.jpeg.aa9b67a5071ff090183d3ce5c2c159eb.jpeg

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Edited by 67burwood
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I think that the tool in the red case is for measuring the output of diesel injector pumps to check that each element is pumping the same quantity of fuel. It may also be possible to measure the leakoff from each injector by conecting the pipes to the leakoff ports on the injectors.

No idea what the blue thing is though.

David

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1 hour ago, Highland_laddie said:

I think the blue thing is a dovetail jig for use with a woodworking router, similar to this found on the web 

 

 
R5020.jpg

That’s spot on, I would never have thought of that 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

“ We got one !! “🎉🍻

Finally found a replacement gearbox for the wot 6, many thanks for everyone’s input and thank you super6 for the et6 parts list. The replacement gearbox is an et6 box which is identical apart from the clutch fork and output flange both of which were easily swapped from the original.

AEA989AA-600E-4C25-8902-6550AAE8D11A.thumb.jpeg.2fe962584316279648c3f75b0148c970.jpeg

Needed a good clean as it had 60+ years of diesel oil coating it.

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All shiny with very little wear and good bearings, the gearbox was courtesy of Gregg Shadbolt from the Early Ford V8 club, very helpful people if anyone needs anything in relation to Ford flathead V8’s. 
 

Advise needed!!  the rear output shaft leather seal is quite worn and I have so far not been unable to locate one, my question, is it an actual oil seal or is it there to stop water and dirt ingress? Have a look at the pictures below, the front seal is an oil thrower and has a drain hole back into the gearbox but the rear doesn’t have any drain hole and neither did the wot6 box, so does oil actually pass the rear bearing?

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I think that it is inevitable that some splashed oil will get past the rear bearing, simply because there is nothing to stop it. However it will not be under any pressure and if the rear seal is working the cavity between the bearing and the seal will fill up to level with the bottom of the bearing (a little higher than the bottom of the seal surface) and lubricate both the bearing and the seal as soon as the truck moves. It is certainly there both to stop oil getting out and dirt and water getting in so does need to function. There is no reason not to use a modern seal in its place if you can get one that fits but don't disregard leather seals, they work fine given a smooth surface to seal against, and as long as they are not allowed to dry out by not being used for years at a time.

The gearbox looks great though, good find.

David

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6 minutes ago, David Herbert said:

I think that it is inevitable that some splashed oil will get past the rear bearing, simply because there is nothing to stop it. However it will not be under any pressure and if the rear seal is working the cavity between the bearing and the seal will fill up to level with the bottom of the bearing (a little higher than the bottom of the seal surface) and lubricate both the bearing and the seal as soon as the truck moves. It is certainly there both to stop oil getting out and dirt and water getting in so does need to function. There is no reason not to use a modern seal in its place if you can get one that fits but don't disregard leather seals, they work fine given a smooth surface to seal against, and as long as they are not allowed to dry out by not being used for years at a time.

The gearbox looks great though, good find.

David

I completely agree that the original leather seals do a good job but unfortunately this one has started to break up and no longer seals against the flange, I will explore Modern seals and see what fits. 
 

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If you are looking at modern seals you need an 'R23' type as they have a little lip that helps keep dirt away from the actual seal part. Don't worry about the thickness, just the internal and external diameters measured from the case and the rotating part.

It is important of course that the surface that runs against the seal is very smooth or it will chew through any seal in no time. The precise diameter is much less critical as the oil seal will accommodate to it within a small tolerance.

David

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12 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

Have you tried Oil Seal UK? 

From their website:-

Where seals are not available from stock we can have them manufactured in the the following materials:-

Metal cased leather
Metal cased rubber
Leather (flat or shaped)
Rubber
Felt
Cork

http://www.oilsealuk.co.uk/

Thank you for the info👍
Yes I’ve been in contact with them and they’ve been very helpful, unfortunately they don’t have any stock of the seal but they are finding out a price for one to be made, the Payen number is D353 Just in case anyone has an obsolete collection of oil seal gathering dust😬

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7 hours ago, Scammell4199 said:

I've always had good results from https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/ and https://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/

If the leather is just a flat piece of leather contact these guys https://www.par-group.co.uk/ they cut out new leather seals for my Scammells back hub seals.

Thanks for the info, all help is appreciated 👍

However.... I may have solved the problem, while rained off site today I came up with a cunning plan🙄 or did I !! 
 

The old seal was well passed repair. 74529B06-9F5B-4EAE-9F84-B737645BAE71.thumb.jpeg.ba6681b2846ef13c06c2a5b7fb5e2edb.jpeg
 

After a quick rummage through the parts bin and salvaged a couple of parts from the original seal I ended up with these. 
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The original seal was a D type double seal , internal seal to retain oil and external to prevent water and dirt ingress ( info and picture courtesy of oil seals uk )
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Stripped the internals out and grind the edge off the seal , used one of the leather seals as a spacer and insert 2 Land Rover series hub seals bedded into silicone, refit the original outer casing and locking ring. F3578DB8-DDA7-45E2-B123-37F818834522.thumb.jpeg.7653f32b6a0875ef4a6243073c845bab.jpeg
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New double seal created  and gearbox back together 🤞it’s got 2 choices 

DEABB08E-719D-42F4-B253-C003AD054327.thumb.jpeg.7ecba690296a073edcb9fb64ce368419.jpeg

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