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Hi New Member, new Jeep


steviem

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If it runs well then I’d maybe leave it as is. If it doesn’t get heavy use then it may go for years without issue.

The GPW engine I have was very firred up with scale, rust and.... a drill in the water jacket. There’s also a few cracks between the galleries on the deck an oversized stud/head bolt hole, a crack to the bottom end (I’m told this isn’t bad to repair compared to the Disy side and the oil galley plugs need sorting.

it won’t be cheap.

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My plan is to find a good machine shop who can do the work. Normally I think such a bad engine would be scrap, but this engine is currently the oldest known Ford produced L134 engine (Feb 42) so I think it’s worth saving. Prior to this, Ford purchased Wilson foundry blocks (same as Willys) and machined them in house. During the assembly of the VEP GPWs, a mixture of early Ford and Wilson blocks were fitted with out any obvious sequence.

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21 hours ago, steviem said:

Chris i am at the other end of the scale mine runs nicely enough i do not know if it was rebuilt, should i strip it down anyway or flush it out clean oil and let it run, like you maybe a repair shop job. i could try it myself never done it, but it may then cost more for someone to put it right.

As Chris said, if it runs OK just leave it closed, change the fluids and clean & repaint the outside.

I found this website http://jeepdraw.com/ to be extremely helpful, especially the 'Colour or Finish of Jeep Parts'-section.

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I’ve already stripped it down so I could see what was wrong and give me an idea. It has been rebuilt previously but the rebuild plate was for the most part, missing. The jacket has been repaired around the coil mounts (usual) many moons ago, perhaps at rebuild and must have worked well and given many more years service.

 

The big crack, and the one that worries me a little looks like it may have been due to a snapped/separated front prop shaft. I did wonder if it may have been left in 4WD while being towed on the rear wheels.

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I understand laser welding is an option but very expensive, being stripped already should help cost wise, it must be damn frustrating for you pretty much in limbo with, like you say it is a early one and well worth keeping. and here i am moaning about rubber windshield seals, my can of worms has not been opened as yet.

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I’ve heard good things about laser welding so will be worth looking into when I’m ready. I find recommendations go a long way to finding a good engine builder. Problem being they are usually swamped in work so people don’t give out recommendations so they can squeeze their own jobs in lol.

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Is that GPA body original? That is amazing condition.

Ive got the early filter for mine too, with the F script on the top, it has its own story. I bought my jeep missing the filter and when I made enquires about it, I found the previous owner in the USA and he gave me some history on it and then said “I’ve got the filter for it here if you want it”. So on one of my 3 month trips over there (working) I had it sent to me and I brought it home. It has the top connector and the screw which was nice. I just need to find an F marked top for the Carb, they were like the filter end but the reinforcing disc on the top wasn’t drilled for the screw.

im well gell over your setup. Looks the bees knees.

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sorted the jeep frame out I think is had a crash in the past I first set the frame level then cut the frame and set that level fit the new bumper guests and spring hangers then bolt up the bumper this will set the correct width cheque the frame for level  cut some steel to fit the gap weld up   its going to be an sas jeep I am only doing the frame and the axles I will start a new post on resetting the crown wheel and pinion 

P1000974.JPG

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Hi Steve,

I've been following your restoration. Looking back to the photos of your windshields were there traces of yellow primer? I'm just curious about whether they used yellow as well as red primer. I also noticed that the inner windscreen handle at the bottom of the frame is screwed on, every other one I've seen is welded on. Can anyone shed any light?

thanks

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Quick one folks, finding one or two bits and bobs that will require a metallic filler, any suggestions? still on the lookout for a trailer socket, as rough guide what price should i look for between genuine and repro.

Thanks folks,,,,, i`m still enjoying what time i get with the MB.

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Try phoning Dallas Autoparts UK. I know they have loads more parts than they show on their website, especially less popular and odd bits. The same goes for Jeeparts. Give one of them a call, I now they are always happy to help. This will get you the price for a repro part. If you are thinking of having a trailer the socket that will be functional, being an electrical component sometimes an original part can give you problems with corrosion and poor contacts especially if you intend to keep 6 volt. 

A trailer socket cover which goes inside the tool locker is £18 from Joe's Motor Pool. I am not on commission from any of these companies but have just spent shed loads of money doing my restorations.....I don't dare keep count!!

Keep posting photos as work progresses, am always keen to see other people's projects.

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Thanks bud, i have messaged both, there is on on Evilbay atm although US shipping would be painful if i was successful with the auction,  once the tub is off i will be looking for a rotisserie (ideally rental would be good) although this stage is a while away yet.

Steve

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Hi,

If it is the socket on evilbay , seller strausfs, it is missing the rear metal cover which protects the stud connectors.

When I purchased some parts from the USA I had to pay 20% uk tax and a Customs and Excise handling charge before the parts were released for delivery. These were new parts but I have heard rumours that if the items are listed as used/secondhand/antique etc they only attract a small amount of tax - but don't quote me. Maybe someone else can add to this.

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