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I bought some silicone sealant removed from Yorkshire trading. I wouldn’t say it was a wonder chemical but it did make it easier to remove. It appeared to lift the edges of thick parts and dissolved the smaller parts. I wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a better stronger version available.

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Wow Jerry, nice things you are doing over there. Keep the pictures coming as I am just as eager as Steviem to learn from it. Looking at bodywork repairs, Often you see waves in the panels or an area w

"i learnt not to throw stuff out from that, well not to until I’d confirmed it as junk" No such thing as junk its all "stuff". Partners might not agree though...🙄

This is the best penetrating oil I’ve come across: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263293111736

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Cheers come to think of it i think unibond do one.

Anyone ever removed a bonnet hinge pin, my hinge has snapped the hat channel section is fine it is the cowl side.

idea is to remove the pin and fabricate a new section.

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Not done a jeep hinge but helped with a Austin hinge and it took lots of penetrating oil, lots of small opening and closing movements of the hinge to free up part of it and then we used heat and quenching with oil to release the other side of the hinge and then we tapped either end with a drift and hammer until it came out. Lots of fiddley taps and repetitive motions but it came out. The chaps fitted a stainless pin in its place. I wasn’t to sure about fitting a stainless hinge pin as I’ve heard stainless and mild steel can cause friction heat but I suppose it’s not a hinge that constantly in use.

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2 hours ago, Jessie The Jeep said:

Electrolysis should sort the hinge too!

it is still attached to the hood, the cowl fitting side has snapped in two places, i need to remove the pin which moves but butts out on the hood.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, steviem said:

it is still attached to the hood.....

I just made a long shallow bath to put long parts in. The whole hood doesn't need to be under water, just the hinge. Here's my inner screen frame being treated. I'd free up the hinge and weld a small replacement section into the hinge.

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Edited by Jessie The Jeep
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Ah the welding topic, i need to get one that is nice and user friendly. run off a 13amp socket (100ish amps i guess) and a dual operation option, gas/gasless so i have the best of both worlds if needed i will not be doing anything industrial with so a small rig would suffice, any ideas?

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I wouldn’t bother with the flux wire no gas stuff, it’s crap and you won’t be happy with using it or the results.

the welder I bought came with a 13 amp plug but I got fed up with having to reset the circuit breaker just as I was about to start. I ended up fitting a 16 amp blue plug and using it on my air compressor circuit. Depending on how sensitive your existing 13 amp electrics are, you may find even a 13 amp machine could trip the breaker.

when I got my air compressor (16 amp single phase) I got an electrician to connect in a short spur from the fuze box to a socket about 60cm away on the outside of the house. I then made up an extension lead (armoured) and ran this under my block paving to my electric meter box. When I want to use the 16 amp circuit, I open the box, get the plug out and connect it to the socket about 60cm above that. 
 

all in cost was about £200 8 years ago and I think it’s saved me getting stressed with tripped CBs every few minutes.

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32 minutes ago, steviem said:

Ah the welding topic, i need to get one that is nice and user friendly. run off a 13amp socket (100ish amps i guess) and a dual operation option, gas/gasless so i have the best of both worlds if needed i will not be doing anything industrial with so a small rig would suffice, any ideas?

get a clarke 110e wig welder shop part code 101110111 have told you don't get a gasless one you will never be able the run a weld and if you do it will look like a pile of bird shit  stick to gas most welding supply's shops can supply you with a exchange gas bottle  

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Posted (edited)

Cheers, i have heard good and bad with both so if get  dual one i have both options, i do not have a workshop as such here a long space down the side of my house with car port etc and use of a garage at my daughters i have also put a reasonable amount of money aside to help with repairs etc but would like to try do as much myself as possible.

I am sure as a novice my welding will look like cow s""t opposed to the bird stuff until such time i get used to it but trail and error hey guys we all start somewhere.

Edited by steviem
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14 minutes ago, Jerry Jeep said:

finished off the front axle today 

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Is that one for you Jerry or a customer request. Are you doing the tub?

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 yes that's one for me, finished the jeep frame today its had its last coat of paint got the gearbox out to strip down tomorrow and order any parts needed stay safe and keep restoring them jeeps

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I do like those early battery trays!

 

I found out a few things I didn’t know recently.

 

the VEP GPW appears to have used Slat Grill type footman loops and there should be another stone guard around the fuel tank spot welded to the riser (not the seat one).

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Posted (edited)

Done a little bit after work today finally remove those welded brackets on the outer frame, cleaned most of the outer frame up, one bit (pictured ) has gone through in the middle section thinking of forming a piece to go over it also removed the hard top bar, first time with a disc cutter i have feeling lots more practice will be on the way, ps, i know i need to tidy the cut areas.

 

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I'm very curious what your experiences with the new wiring kit will be, as I would like to replace my home-made one for a more correct looking one sometime.

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How do you find having the M2 on the back? I’ve already got an M2 but I don’t know if I should put a M31C pedestal mount in my jeep or stick with the M31 mount with my M1917. The M2 looks impressive due to the size but the M1917A1 is much scarcer on a vehicle and probably more in keeping with the VEP.

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Posted (edited)
59 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

How do you find having the M2 on the back? I’ve already got an M2 but I don’t know if I should put a M31C pedestal mount in my jeep or stick with the M31 mount with my M1917. The M2 looks impressive due to the size but the M1917A1 is much scarcer on a vehicle and probably more in keeping with the VEP.

you need to fit the m31c otherwise the gun will rip the floor out of your jeep also weld the brackets to the frame for the two back legs I can post photos of the brackets that are on an original willys frame that I am going to restore for myself  

Edited by Jerry Jeep
miss spelt
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I’ve got the dimensions of the frame brackets so I can make those easy enough. I just wonder how much space the legs of the M31C take up as my 2 kids will be in the back. The M31 with the 1917 will be a rare sight but it doesn’t have the presence of the M2.

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