Hi New Member, new Jeep

[steviem]

Got the lights sorted with a bit of TLC. ready to be cleaned and primed, i got a few larger sections off today drivers fender what a bitch that was, bonnet and screen all here to be stripped cleaned primed, i know to take it easy with the bonnet to see if there are any serial numbers on there, the fender? full of filler but original i think, the screen top bar wants removing where a hard top was on, see if i can get the inner screen seperated too, should keep me busy for a while.

It must take some of you guys back to when you first started.

 

[earlymb]

Gently sanding the sides of the hood by hand is the way to go, you never know what it might reveal. The old layers of paint are also fun to document. Up to 1945 the number applied at the factory was in dove-grey and then usually re-applied in white in the field, but sometime in 1945 the factory switched to white so depending on that date you might find traces of that dove-grey number too.

[steviem]

Cheers buddy, low grade wet and dry right?

headlamp units almost ready for primer, one small hole to repair and some rust on the inside to remove.

[Jessie The Jeep]

I used soft solder to fill a number of small pin holes in small parts. 

[steviem]

The only hole is the one pictured, impact damage.

The rust inside is a bugger to clean.

[Jessie The Jeep]

Is there metal from the puncture wound that can be bent back into place? Failing that, I'd cut a piece of steel or brass to fit the hole and soft solder it in place.

[Jessie The Jeep]

1 hour ago, steviem said:

The rust inside is a bugger to clean.

Have you tried electrolysis? That works really well. Look on Youtube, there's plenty of videos about it.

[steviem]

Thanks Steve, no there is no bent over metal , regarding electrolysis i have never had the balls to do it something with water and electricity gives me the wobbles although i have restored old rusty helmets and bayonets etc i took the hard way.

So i tried to reveal some hood markings, several layers in and bare metal not a sausage have i gone to far? after the orange came the OD with metal after that. I still have the other side to check.

 

[Jessie The Jeep]

Electrolysis isn't difficult. I ran my system from a 12 volt car charger. It really gets to all those difficult to reach areas. Give it a try on some scrap. 

[earlymb]

I would continue sanding the sides of the hood till the OD, you never know but it is possible the numbers were removed before the first civilian coat of paint. I think I might see the trace of an 'S' on that close-up pic, on the OD part just right of the screw?

 

Ditto on the electrolysis, it's perfectly save as long as you do it in a well-ventilated area away from any igniters as the vapour is flammable (Hydrogen), I have done it many times and you probably have everything you need for it already at hand. It's a slow process and the used soda solution is a perfect garden fertilizer as it doesn't contain any chemicals but it does have plant nutrients. Just remember it will also strip any paint on the items.

Edited April 28, 2020 by earlymb

[steviem]

Thanks guys i will plod on with it and see if anything appears, with the headlamp cups i will more than likely spend a little time with the Dremel there is no rush. And this is the easy bit? All new to me but loving every bit of it so far.

[steviem]

OK half the hood stripped nothing, hopefully something on the other half, lights are coming on nicely.

Welding guys, i need to learn/teach myself it is a must i guess when owning a Jeep, so Mig/Tig etc what would be best for me based on i am a complete novice Mig?   any advice tips or welder types welcome.

Steve

 

[Jerry Jeep]

Have been working on the next jeep over the last week some photos for you of the front axle and rebuilt steering box will get the hubs on tomorrow steviem get your self a mig 120 and a gas bottle with .6 wire don't get a gasless one they are s**t and you will regret it 

[Chris Hall]

Is that a Slat Grill?

[steviem]

Nice work Jerry, gowd knows how i will get on when i reach that stage.

Regards the welder any brand? i will be welding outside straight off an outdoor socket so 13amp, i guess anything between 100/120 amps should be ok, i took your advice and ordered replacement section for the axe area, one last question for you or any other members as any used a shrinking disc, lots of lumps and bumps on the the bonnet, i watched the youtube guide and they look pretty handy.

[Jerry Jeep]

7 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

Is that a Slat Grill?

It is a very early first production ford gpw as ford plant that built the frames was not working they got frames from the company that made for willys however ford stamped them up in the usual ford place   

[Chris Hall]

15 minutes ago, Jerry Jeep said:

It is a very early first production ford gpw as ford plant that built the frames was not working they got frames from the company that made for willys however ford stamped them up in the usual ford place   

What’s the number? I’ve a VEP,  GPW 6008, DOD 18 Mar 42 which is no where near as early as yours must be! The only early battery tray framed GPWs I know of were the factory demonstrators that Ford sent out to each plant at the start of production. They weren’t delivered ( I believe) until March/April. Very interesting if that’s what it is.

[steviem]

Bit of a thread hijack here guys?

[steviem]

So back on topic with the 45 MB, the only numbers i could half make out looked like 547 on the hood, this is now ready for dent removal/hinge repair primer and storage, the screen, i have to remove weld between brackets and main frame, the inner frame slid straight out although the glass has been put in with silicone, the main frame has some rot i am thinking repair here as it has a piece behind which is solid enough, lights ready for a re wire and storage slow progress i know but progress is progress.

[Chris Hall]

What’s the wording under the paint? Looks like BRI.............ORDER

[steviem]

Thats the Lube chart holder bud.

[Chris Hall]

I see it now “LUBRICATION CHART”.

[Jerry Jeep]

some one has welded up the hood block holes and the tinning  on the leading edge of the hood is for the grill to hood bond strap nice to see the original lube chart holder keep going  

[Jessie The Jeep]

1 hour ago, steviem said:

........the glass has been put in with silicone.......

When I rebuilt my Ford, Cliff from Universal suggested I put the new screen glass in with silicone, rather then the proper seals. He said that water always gets behind the seals and rots the frame out. This then expands and cracks the glass. Put in with silicone, it keeps all the water out.

[steviem]

Thanks guys, the indents for the hood block are still there they will be reinstalled once i have sorted the hinge and dents, Steve i dont mind using silicone for the glass but could be a pain to remove the old stuff along with perished rubber around the rest of the fame, so hopefully now get the bottom piece off to reveal the E frame and grind the bubba weld on the brackets.