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Hi New Member, new Jeep


steviem

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Long bolts away from clutch and brake arms, won't pull through though,  also thought I'd take data plates off to save any damage,  choke and throttle cable's released from the  carburettor,  soaked chassis bolts driver's side front. 

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It is running on 12v would that not be a problem, i have here a replacement set from MV and kind of brings me to my next question, which electric cables are mandatory during tub removal, i have read one guy removed his tub stood it up on its back end the removed the gauges and clusters he found it a lot easier standing, i am only 5,7 so it could suit me too.

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12V won't be a problem, it's more that you have to check if the original wiring is damaged/broken/brittle (especially the coating) but even if it is, it is worth keeping for reference.

You can leave the wiring on the tub, just make sure everything is disconnected at the fire wall.

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I personally would replace the complete old wiring loom. I can see in the photo that the fabric covered wires are looking frayed and brittle and where they might make a tight turn when in the tub they could crack and potentially short out. On my Dodge under the dash the insulation had fallen away leaving complete lengths of bare copper wire. While you have the easy access with the tub off put a new MV Spares loom in ( I think about £260).

Good luck with the project and I will continue to follow this thread to see how you get on.

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thanks guys i already have the new loom here, Sirhc, did you strip it like that too.

Pretty much now chassis bolts and i think there is a oil pipe to disconnect that might be it, unless there is some bubba work to deal with.

My plan as you know now is to do the tub,hood,fenders,seats,grill and screen and send the entire drive train for evaluation and repair/restoration hopefully with Jerry (must give a bell soon).

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cheque the date of your jeep as late pedals did not have the cast type the plane ones had a type of grip tape on them you can simulate this with grit sand in the primer then paint the top coat in green i had to make the ones on my late war time jeep and my next ford is the same and deep mud exhaust pipe  you can make this from an m38 jeep with a bit of cutting and welding 

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Hi Jerry yes mine are the late type no nobbles. not sure if i have seen any later repro types. i also understand the front floor pan differs for the deep mud type exhaust. hopefully give you a ring soon so you can get your hands on it.

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19 hours ago, sirhc said:

I found it much easier wiring my tub with it on its side. I wired everything and then put it on the chassis.

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I found the same, do the wiring when the tub is off. I also built a jig on wheels to make it easier to move move around to get access

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Thank you this seems to be the way forward in lots of ways, wiring, repairs, welding. i managed to get a set of 4 heavy duty trolly wheels from work i am sure something can be rigged together with a decent sized pallet.

Thanks to everyone for help and advice

Steve.

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A good idea I’ve not tried myself yet is to buy 2 cheap engine stands with a single or double long box section leg. Buy a length or two of box section of the next size down and connect the 2 together with the right distance apart to mount the tub. This gives you a very professional rotisserie that can be used for lots of different vehicles.

something like this would work

https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/car-engine-stand-support-mount-heavy-duty-swivel-transmission-workshop-gearbox-182308

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To end up with something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-duty-rollover-jig-rotisserie-on-wheels-mobile-fits-any-vehicle/133183471143?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133183471143&targetid=1001986947744&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007079&campaignid=10199638303&mkgroupid=107296312292&rlsatarget=aud-629407027905:pla-1001986947744&abcId=1145987&merchantid=115730036&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5J0C6ZmnpqGtJPfigjNxS6_qSzfYmNdWJeZ1mA1sYMGB7eN7_aDqg-hoC_8YQAvD_BwE&pageci=7cc3faba-8ef7-40c4-9384-3ff51f62aaea

1CCD93B1-08B6-444D-ADE3-92F0D30C0D81.thumb.jpeg.efb8929dd66ba327cb0b6d5b5055254b.jpeg

Edited by Chris Hall
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