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Hi New Member, new Jeep


steviem

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Ahhh, now here is a story, originally i was attracted to the 42GPW which was ok i guess, after speaking to mike he informed me 75% of the imports the get now are Ford tubs and Willys were getting harder to source (amazing because more were built) The Jeep generally is more original to its factory day and is in sounder condition, minor work to the side panels/floor joint the footwells already repaired to a good standard rear floor is sound just a bit in the tool storage to work on, i listened carefully to the advice given by the guys that long term this would be a decent  option, 

I am as you know somewhat green, this is my material to work with and hopefully we will get on fine.

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I don't know what your rebuild plans are, but after stripping mine, I cleaned up all the small parts, oil filter housing, footman loops, pedals etc, and repainted them. They were then wrapped and boxed out of the way. When the main rebuild started, all those parts were completed, ready to be fitted when needed. I ended up using two and a half 5 litre tins of paint sprayed. I started with two 5 litre tins but towards the end of the project it was clear another would be needed which also gave me some for future touch ups.

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Pretty much the same however i will not touch anything until it is registered, lots of small pieces like you say to be removed for cleaning and painting even down to the original lead washers, once we have the tub off a real evaluation can begin with hopefully a nice long summer to enable a little outside work when possible.

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I believe if the Jeep has a valid US title, NOVA etc then it does not need the MVT to verify it but the DVLA will inspect to to check the numbers etc.

It’s worth buying all your paint at the same time to ensure it’s all the same shade. I didn’t do this, but did mix together all the 1 litre tins in a big bucket and then put it back into the smaller tins to make sure they were all the same colour.

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22 minutes ago, steviem said:

I have the NOVA etc, it will be here in an hour or so, is it right to be both exited and nervous at my age?

Nothing wrong with that .

Its a good sign, costs and resale value etc don't stack up to how it makes you feel, that's priceless.

Remember to take pictures !

Iain

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If you post some pics of the area of the block around the waterpump we'll know more. The head is post-war but that's easy to change.

Also, study the bolts! Original ones are usually marked (I think 'EC' for later Willys?) and will be an indicator if parts have been removed/replaced. Original bolts are a premium for a restoration so try to carefully salvage and re-use as many as you can.

Apart from the already mentioned sources, there is a wealth of information to be found here: http://jeepdraw.com/

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If I'm reading data plates correctly.....

Serial 432030

DOD  4/3/45   I believe April 3/45.  Could be original motor.  Parts came in by rail car so they just grabbed which ever one came off first.

1945 MB  should be ACM 2 body.  look on toe board gusset on driver side. should be stamped on the side.

https://g503.com/oldsite/serial-numbers/view.php?record_id=2006  Serial number 431759.with WD number

1945-04-03

Willys MB

430095

Barker

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

431735

Tate

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

431740

Sandhu

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

431759

Braeger

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

431867

Bennett

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

     Ascending     Descending 

     Ascending     Descending 

     Ascending     Descending 

 

 

1945-04-03

Willys MB

431973

Durtschi

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

431999

Wilson

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

432008

Fattig

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

432088

Bennett

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

432101

Landino

This is a tiny thumnail of the jeep picture.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

432126

Hubert

This is a tiny thumnail of the jeep picture.

1945-04-03

Willys MB

432126

Hubert

This is a blank image space holder so all of the table cells are a uniform height.

 

These are all from the old G503 serial number datatbase.

Sorry..  Got bored Did some digging.

Also..  plate beside glove box..  Is there any holes behind it or is it just hiding where bubba hid his jukebox?

Jason

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Ok guys its here, not to bad on the body a few repairs done and a few to do, very kruddy underneath it was kind of a rush to get it into the garage avoiding showers, cylinder head is post war but on the original block, some bits and bobs left in the tool wells and think some original OD visable, 

VIN432030   ENGINE NUMBER MB566495 REGD 04-03-1945

a few rushed pictures

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20200222_103659.jpg

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1 hour ago, steviem said:

Notice the red box next to the passenger seat has a pipe from to underneath the body it has lead washers, something to do with a radio?

This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward  GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. 

Pete

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It seems the ridge on the block between waterpump and head is approx. 8 cm wide, which indicates it has a gear- and not a chain distribution, which is a post-war feature. On the WW2 engines with a chain distribution this ridge is only about 3 cm wide, hence my question if it is the original block although I could be mistaken.

Also, have a look at your inlet manifold. It seems to lack the two vacuum inlets at each outside corner. Check if it has 'A-1166' casted at the underside. If it has it could be a early manifold used only on very early production jeeps and quite sought after!

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hi earlymb, i did question the guys regarding the head they confirmed "> Hi Steve
> Yes the head is post war on the original engine
>    regards   Mike"

I assume they themselves checked it all over prior to listing it for sale, they have between them over 70 years of knowledge, but i will check, as stated the jeep is currently in my daughters garage a short drive away until such time that the DVLA have checked it over i am not going to touch other than a bit of WD40 here and there to help the strip process.

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I used a little butane gas torch on quite a few Ford marked nuts and bolts to help free them before trying the spanners. Some were however, too far gone and one nut had corroded away so much there was just a helicoil of thread left screwed onto the bolt!

I did manage to save some things like the steering wheel nut.....
0029.jpg

and the collar around the wheel.....

0023.jpg

0028.jpg

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4 hours ago, Nick Johns said:

Good basis to start on. But for the asking price you could easily get a restored one for what it is listed for!..There is a LOT missing. & It need a fair bit of work doing. But not as bad as some I have seen!

To be fair, the vendor has stated make an offer.  But I suspect He probably wouldnt accept a realistic offer?...

Edited by ferretfixer
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4 hours ago, Nick Johns said:

That is amazing that the two Jeeps have shown up, looks much more complete than mine but its 10k more.

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Hi guys been up today had the old girl running, runs quite nicely and oil pressure is good there is a leak from the water pump though, all converted to 12v which i am happy with for now, gears seem quite stiff something i will have to look at, so as tempting as it is i have wait for the DVLA  before i start stripping her.

PS question, i started it up via fuel can and a length of piping, really dont want to risk the tank, are there any threads related to tank testing/repairing etc.

Thanks Steve.

Edited by steviem
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