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Hi New Member, new Jeep


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4 minutes ago, steviem said:

That looks almost new, is it authentic, never heard of this seller but looks very well priced.

Steve

I bought a NOS one at War & Peace a few years ago. It was a shame to open the box. There are some good Jeep parts dealers on the continent. 


https://www.jeepsudest.com

http://www.classicjeepparts.com/sv/
http://www.wildenbergparts.nl

 

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this is what happens when some one does not know how to set a diff up in a jeep axle it lasted less then 100 miles photos of the new one and the busted one  its the best one i have ever seen it made a

A quote [ a man who never makes any failures never makes any successes either ] very true

Hi  your jeep looks a good project for you I build jeeps for a living they are not difficult to work on just get on with it this is the last one I did it went back to America a ford gpw from this to t

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Socket arrived today, first class service.

One question the socket has no visable makers mark i did not know there was a after market product made is this the case. part number WO-A-6019.

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getting rid of some old parts that arrived with the Jeep,  regulator,fuel pump,air cleaner bracket no idea if the are original or not or even if they work thought Ebay maybe a good option, any thoughts.

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i have the filter brackets attached already, also a 12v regulator that is working fine, the fuel pump i have on now is the glass type, i dont know if these were ever on my MB, they were in the storage bins, if they are the correct parts someone may want to refurbish them ive got enough on with it atm, how are you getting on with yours bud this forum seems a little quite just lately.

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Yes, erm.....my jeep looks like someone took a cheese wire to it and turned it to smaller chunks! I will hopefully be welding the 3 big chunks to the new front and rear floors soon. I just need to some good weather and some good luck. If I was brave I would post some photos but I reckon there would be a lot of WTF have you done lol.

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chris please don't worry what other people think its your jeep and as long as you are happy with it and the way you work on it than that's ok look what i did to a slat grill some one asked me why i did this to a slat grill i told them i only collect ford gpw;s   

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Totally agree with Jerry, you ought to see some of my efforts, its easy to go out buy a repro tub etc, i am sure many if not all on here have and continue to make mistakes, my tub is a bit scary for me but i will have a go at it.

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On 7/9/2020 at 3:00 PM, steviem said:

Guys, i have some nasty dents in the hood and wish to try heat shrinking, will butane heat the metal enough for it to work.

Steve

A shrinking disc is likely better than butane. You need a short sharp localised heat on the raised part, butane will be slow and heat up a large area which defeats the object really. It is amazing how it works, some say you can’t move metal but after seeing the Rolls Royce guys at work, I beg to differ.

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Cheers guys, map gas gives more heat than butane and propane, the dent i have is quite large and gives the typical `oil can` effect i guess either gas or disc could work and may well end up trying both, when the dent is lets say relaxed it tends to have the high point inside the hood, i can pop it back out but the slightest touch sends it back, so when when shrinking should i put heat where it is relaxed?

thanks for all your help and advice guys it really helps.

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Hi guys could anyone help me to estimate my hood number please, after careful paint removal no numbers where evident although this is an original hood, anyway the main details of this MB are engine number; MB566495 VIN;432030 DOD;04/03/1945 like everyone else i would like to have a unique number for my old girl, thanks in advance.

Tried G503 forums no luck there.

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On 6/12/2020 at 9:30 PM, grey on top said:

Hi Steve,

I've been following your restoration. Looking back to the photos of your windshields were there traces of yellow primer? I'm just curious about whether they used yellow as well as red primer. I also noticed that the inner windscreen handle at the bottom of the frame is screwed on, every other one I've seen is welded on. Can anyone shed any light?

thanks

as promised the yellow paint, this is on top of the inner screen but  has been evident on the hood and outer screen, now covered with red oxide.

 

 

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Camt thank you enough Jerry that great, i spent hours trying to reveal it, would this followed or started by an `S`. Also 8 numbers is that correct always thought there was 7.

Steve

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11 minutes ago, steviem said:

Camt thank you enough Jerry that great, i spent hours trying to reveal it, would this followed or started by an `S`.

Steve

no the date of your jeep it would have the type 2 earth bonding only a few earth straps and a load of earth washers for example the body bolt by your foot would be  like the order in the picture you can get this set from jeepest in France the best set around 

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33 minutes ago, steviem said:

Hi guys a little quite on here lately, i am looking for plug advice G503 forums mention these as suitable has anyone tried them.

 

I use Champion J8C, you can find them very cheap on eBay.

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Cheers bud, its weird most of the feedback was Champion were not that good the two i mentioned came out top, i think the AC ones run hotter to prevent fouling although others said they can cause serious engine damage.

Also noted you are very close to me, have you used anyone locally to do any work for you.

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Those that have had issues probably haven’t considered that the fuel is much better than it was 70+ years ago and their engines and carbs are likely also tired. And in the States (I would guess 75% on the G are US based) the petrol has a lower Octane rating than the U.K. (Regular is about 87) which will also play a part.

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Hi all first on the plugs i have run both AC45 and all so CHAMPION J8C and never had any problem with them only ones i find don't work was DENSO plugs number W14-U this i found out with help from a ww2 spitfire plug tester and this was that if the cylinder pressure is not high the plug don't fire  they are made for modern high compression engines now the fuel. The fuel or gas in the uk is high octane almost the old 5* and if you look on your data plates you will see that jeeps octane is 68% min paraffin is 72% so what i do is i add some diesel in with the fuel this drops the octane and also gives the cylinder bores some lubrication  the best i find is the industrial derv as it has fewer additives making it cleaner also most additives lead replacements add to the octane making it higher. the high octane makes your timing need altering you need to retard your timing the number of jeep i get in the work shop that need retiming is all most all of them. anther thing i find is the alcohol that is added to uk fuel can rot the rubber in the fuel pumps rot the leather on the carb pump and make the fuel tank sender float sink as it becomes heavy with ethanol all the best jerry        

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