Chris Hall Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 I believe you’re correct, due to rubber shortages the rubber draft boots on the transmission and pedals gave way to rubber and where seals weren’t really a necessity they were missed off completely. The way I do my panels varies. I may want to save a part as a pattern or save a part by sacrificing another. So I use a 1mm cutting disc on a grinder to cut rot out or remove a sacrificial panel and use a heavy grinding disc to remove spot welds on the sacrificial side leaving the panel I wish to save intact. I also use a spot weld drill occasionally but the grinder although time consuming, always does a better job. Very, very occasionally I have to use a chisel but it’s always my last resort. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Cheers bud, I am tempted if it will help with any water ingress, I am hoping to get my hands on a little sheet metal to help with a few patches i have already got the pioneer sections here, I guess the grinder will be used for cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 If I’m fitting new panels I also seal the seams. I know it’s not something they did back in the day but I don’t want rust starting at the seams as it’s just down hill from there. I just bought a can of it from eBay. I went for the BMW stuff as it was cheaper than buying a branded product. Just apply a thin layer using a corking gun, clamp together, spot weld and leave to cure for 24 hours. As it’s a glue/sealer it will be stronger than original (and maybe less creaking). If you don’t spot weld and and just mig through holes to simulate them, then I think you could just clean the hole out with solvent and a rag before welding. Then at least the glue will give a good bond even if like mine, your welding skills are en pas with a 7 year old girl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 (edited) I have no welding skills at all yet, my only source will be a mig, which is still in box, I will have hopefully just a couple of floor patches, the pioneer section, tank sump and I will probably replace all of the hat channels, this will more than likely change once daylight is exposed to the underside of the tub, was it just a seam sealer you got, I remember years ago something called wax oil. Edited December 10, 2020 by steviem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 It’s a seam sealer/glue. Waxoil is good inside things like hat channels but I do find it can either wash out or trap moisture. A combo of both would work well. The sealer/glue is something the manufacturers use to build the cars as it’s easier and stronger than welding. The spot welds simply hold the pieces in place while the glue sets rather than add much strength. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Cheers bud, if you could drop me a link/name i will pick some up, nxt time I'm near woodhall spa we will have to meet up i will buy you a pint in the Lancaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Jeep Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 get your self some weld through primer paint both sides then weld up this is the type I have 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Thanks Jerry, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Jeep Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 as for the top hats what i do is remove all the wet wood weld a heavy wall tube were the body bolt holes are then fill them up with expanding filler foam from tool station water will never get in when its all dry then seam seal joints and under the body were you never see stone chip paint this you can over paint 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Thanks Jerry, I reckon all my hat channels may need replacing other than the one behind the pioneer panel which looks pretty good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Jerry Jeep said: get your self some weld through primer paint both sides then weld up this is the type I have This is the stuff I’ve used for years and then someone said I should try the copper rich rather than the Zinc. I’ve never seen copper stuff never mind tried it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share Posted December 9, 2020 Both are available on eBay, not sure what the difference is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Well bugger me! It’s in near identical cans with the same number so I’ve obviously just over looked it. At least the old cans were different colours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 I added some stock steel in place of the original oak, loads of primer and then dynax wax I use this stuff on the Jeep and my wifes VW Camper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Nice work. like you say plenty of primer to keep out moisture as much as possible i have noticed JMP doing hat channels without wood inserts, i will have to pick some up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 I’ve also heard of nylon being used instead of oak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Again, makes sense Chris with our climate. Wife asked me what i wanted for xmas, yes you guessed it, an axe and spade love her face was a picture and some words that followed were not for the faint hearted , found some hat channels JMP as always "out of stock" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 The main cross section in my photo is the JMP piece in the picture and at the time I restored my jeep they only did the ACM2 replacement channels you have pictured and as I have a ACM1 tub, that was the only piece I used... So, I have the rest spare if you want to PM me an offer? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Can you get the main section on its own? if not i could end up with lots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 I was thinking more along the lines of if you main cross member was usable, you may only need the rest..? Or you could get a local fabricator to knock out a bit of had channel for that piece? I had to do that for the cross member that goes under the rear of the tub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 It is shot bud, i guess it makes sense for me to remove all of them and replace with new sections (maybe an entire front floor) the wood will eventually rot so better to do it when everything is off and easy to get to, thank you anyway i will keep you in mind nearer the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 The hardest part of any restoration is deciding how far to go. I like to keep as much as original as possible but at some point, it just becomes unrealistic. I’ve seen some replace small sections of hat channels that have rotted through which is fine. But in my experience the rest isn’t far behind and sometimes you’ve just got to bite the bullet and replace the lot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Totally agree Chris, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlymb Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 When we restored our jeep in the '90's my dad had some lenght of hat channels made, having the same outside dimensions but the metal being a bit thicker than original. We did not use any inserts and after welding we drilled a few small holes and applied Waxoyl on the inside over the many coats of paint, the holes being capped off. Seems to hold up fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviem Posted December 11, 2020 Author Share Posted December 11, 2020 Yes we did use wax oil some years ago on car sills, thicker metal would give you the added strength you need too, i do not have the tools or knowledge to make my own , a set from JMP when they are in stock is around £85 without wood or £120 with as this thread suggest there are pro`s and cons with wood inserts the British climate will not help it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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