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CVRT Gearbox OIL SEAL replacement PART 2

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List of parts

8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?)

47 Tab Washer

46 Washer

45 O ring

44  O ring

43 Output Drive Coupling

42 Oil Seal

40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder

39 Bearing

38 Bearing Inner Spacee

37 Bearing Outer Spacer

36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer

35 Spacer

34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring

33 Steering Disc Hub

32 Oil seal

22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder

23 Bearing

24 Spacer

25 Spacer

26 Roller Bearing

27 Roller Bearing outer track retainer

13 Steering hub drive



Part 2

Replacing the inner seal.

Having completed part 1



 The next stage is to replace the inner seal.

Access to the inner seal can only be obtained by removing slotted lock ring item 34.

THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO ACCESS THE SEAL AND ANY BEARINGS BEHIND IT, it is essential that the lock ring is not damaged, it is also unlikely the lock ring can be removed by any form of bodging such as using a drift, screwdriver or chisel and any attempt using other methods.

anything apart from the correct tool is likely to cause damage, rendering the removal of the locking ring next to impossible – you have been warned!


To access the lock ring having removed the seal holder/bearing retainer, knock back in using a soft drift the drive shaft coupling.

Once again pull out the drive shaft coupling and with luck the bearing item 39 will come out with it, if it does the bearing has to be pulled off the coupling for later reinsertion into the hub.

If the bearing does not come out with the coupling it will have to be removed using a bearing insert extractor. The bearing is readily available and reasonably cheap.


With the bearing removed spacers items 38,37,36 and 35 can be removed, a magnet is useful to remove item 35.


With all the spacers removed the slotted lock ring should be removed, the only way, in my experience to remove this is using a castle socket impact wrench made specifically for the job and a 1500Nm air impact wrench, even a 1 meter breaker bar may not remove the lock ring.


 To prevent the hub turning fit 2 or 3 G clamps to the steering disc which will contact the still attached  steering brake caliper whilst the lock ring is removed.


With The lock ring slacked off upend the box as best it can be and remove the lock ring, once removed, remove the G clamps and the steering brake caliper.


The hub is heavy !


There is no need to remove the steering brake disc.

Using a 3 leg puller pull off the steering disc hub.

Lift the hub clear, Item 24 will now have dropped making reinstallation of the hub difficult unless the hub and housing are on a flat surface

The oil seal is now accessible and can be removed.

Examine the seal surface on the hub for a groove using a finger nail, a shiny ring  on the seal surface is acceptable. If there is a groove a speedy sleeve will have to be fitted.


The replacement seal can now be fitted into item 22 or can be fitted later after item 22 is removed from the main gearbox, (see later)  Item 22 has to be removed to reinsert the steering disc hub,


Remove the bolts, item 31 on the periphery of item 22 as well as the socket head bolts item 29. Item 22 can now be pulled off the gearbox by screwing into the two threaded 7/16” Unf bolts on the edge of item 22


Fitting the seal

If a rubber edged seal as previously described is used then insertion into item 22 is not too difficult. Place the seal into the housing and gently push, using hand pressure on the edge making sure the seal is fitting squarely into the housing. With a soft faced hammer or mallet gently tap the seal working slowly all the way around the seal, gradually the seal will move into the housing, when it is flush place the old seal, face on face to the new seal, and again tap gently using the old seal to push the new seal home.

The new seal should not protrude past the housing face, and should sit slightly inside the housing when correctly fitted.

The old seal I removed can clearly be seen in a photo below protruding outside the housing where it had been rubbing on the hub and incorrectly fitted.


Fitting the hub into housing item 22

Grease the seal and the surface on which the seal faces on the hub.

Place the hub into housing 22, centre spacer 24, the hub now needs to be pulled back into item 22 and it’s two bearings using a suitable bolt and two face plates.

A suitable kit is 23pc Front Wheel Drive Bearing Puller Removal Installation Tool Kit Set” from eBay or Machine Mart, together with a suitable locally produced flat plate with a hole.


Once the hub is back into housing item 22, the housing can be reattached to the gearbox, use blue Hylomar to seal the joint before reattaching item 22.

Replace the slotted lock ring, tightening it back to where it came off such that it can be locked in place with locking washer item 36 after the spacer 35 is fitted.

Refit spacers 37 and 38, refit bearing 39 hammering it in squarely on its outer race.

Proceed to fit the bearing retainer/seal housing as per part one and continue assembly as per part 1 



Item 35  spacer can clearly be seen, behind that is the difficult to remove lock ring


Steering disc hub removed, old oil seal clearly visible


The incorrect fitting of the old seal can be clearly seen.


New correctly fitted double lip seal





Preparing to pull the steering hub into it's housing -Notice the rust marks on the sealing flange ! The silicon sealant used previously had not been correctly applied. - use Blue Hylomar!



The steering brake hub being pulled back into it's housing with a super large bolt and a piece of scrap aluminium. The 7/16" UNF bolt is still in place used to split item 22 from the gearbox.


Edited by Diana and Jackie
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10 hours ago, Diana and Jackie said:



With all the spacers removed the slotted lock ring should be removed, the only way, in my experience to remove this is using a castle socket impact wrench made specifically for the job and a 1500Nm air impact wrench, even a 1 meter breaker bar may not remove the lock ring.
















Hi Diana,

The person who tighten that lock ring up must have been a Neanderthal ! The correct tool for removing the ring only had a tommy bar hole and I never had any problems, see photo of tool here.

CVRT socket.jpg

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Hi Richard,

I had a 1 metre 3/4" breaker bar standing on it and the lock ring would not move, even with a 1500Nm impact wrench it took 5 minutes to get the lock ring (on both sides) to move, I suspect depending on who overhauled the gearbox,( this was Belgian) you may or may not get a problem.

You can also notice bodge marks on the large lock ring - not caused by me, clearly they had tried to get it off by bodging.

You may notice that not even the oil seals were properly fitted, a bearing dust cap was fitted on both sides, one had come loose, had a steel backing and damaged the seal surface of the output coupling shaft, the output coupling shaft lock ring was loose as well which was causing the major oil leak and started off the whole repair.

Incidentally the outer seals were nitrile - with finger springs - really old seals, and the inner seals were Viton, none of which makes the least bit sense!

In all a right bodge, so I suggest anyone taking this job on needs to hope for the best and be prepared for the worst.



Edited by Diana and Jackie
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