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Daimler CB22


PITT24423

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New cast ally radiator sides arrived back from the foundry last week which we used original sides from New Zealand as the patterns .

 The only original parts we can reuse are the top and bottom tube plates which came in a box of loveliness from Cumbria along with the unserviceable tubes which has given me the size and spacing for the gills.Managed to buy a pattern for the header tank from a earlier Daimler restoration which is now at the foundry which was a result. 

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Used a friends shot blaster and cleaned up the tube plates this evening fitted temporary angles to hold them flat and square. Also drilled the mounting holes and had a trial fit ready for its trip to Lincolnshire to the rad guy. I won’t fettle and polish the sides until it comes back. 
Made a dummy base plate so I can fabricate the bottom tank whilst the rad is away. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Over the last week of evenings I have been distracted by the Dodge but Dave finished off the seat box which was mostly modelled on Bill’s period photo and a couple of other pics I liked the detail.

A friend has turned up a replacement drive shaft which powers the water pump, lubricator and finally the mag as the original was worn and a poor earlier replacement. 

 

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1 hour ago, Great War truck said:

That is a super sounding Pierce Arrow. Another survivor i did not know about.

 

Its story is apparently , It was sold to the USA in 65, then it moved to Canada in a major collection. The collection was donate to a museum, but the bus was discarded due to no canadian history. In 86 it was sold to a Denmark where it had been hiding for about 30 years. 

 
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Tied in a work trip and collected the crown wheel and worm from Leek Gears can’t recommend these guys high enough , did exactly what they said they would when they would. New bearings fitted to the diff hub and crown wheel bolted to the hub just got to measure up and knock up the input shaft . 

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46 minutes ago, Citroman said:

Has this bronze? wheel a need for special oil?

Our 1916 Dennis has a bronze wheel like this. It has been running on generic "steam oil"[1] with the club since 1955 doing around 1000 miles a year (which isn't a lot. but probably more than most solid-tyred vehicles). Last time I saw the wheel it looked great. 

[1] As far as I know, Valvata 1000. Ben might know if that is still what they use. 

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Our choice of oil is Morris AG 140 or 250 oil for our axles and gearboxes . One of the problems  I’ve been told about with early oils (Daimler recommended best quality steam oil ) is cavities forming on the pressure points of the teeth as the oil gets squeezed between the teeth causing cavities in the bronze teeth.Modern oils are designed to avoid this problem but time will tell.

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17 hours ago, PITT24423 said:

Our choice of oil is Morris AG 140 or 250 oil for our axles and gearboxes . One of the problems  I’ve been told about with early oils (Daimler recommended best quality steam oil ) is cavities forming on the pressure points of the teeth as the oil gets squeezed between the teeth causing cavities in the bronze teeth.Modern oils are designed to avoid this problem but time will tell.

I had a good discussion with Richard Hallett about back axle oil some time ago. Specifically with regards to bronze components and my Austin 7.

Castrol D140 is recommended, I was using Morris AG140 with no complaints. A very common substitution. 

His advice was similar to Daimlers, that a ISO 460 Steam cylinder/bearing oil is more or less an equivalent to the SAE 140 gear. A straight oil being direct equivalent, but a compounded oil was likely to be better.

Given that like you I run a steamer, and have ISO 460 compounded bearing oil in stock (for the total loss system), I just use that now, for both steam bearings and Austin axles. 

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When I was restoring the Peugeot, a friend who has several old cars and motorcycles recommended Rhino Silkolene 140. He has used this oil for several decades in his vehicles, so that is what I am using.

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Lift gearboxes have bronze wormwheels and run for decades on 460 / 680 steam cylinder oil. (which is never changed, only topped up!) Until recently I serviced one (for 22 years) which was installed in 1927. The wormwheel is still like new.

 

Jarrod. 

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Posted (edited)

Just came across my original notes from the man that knows at Morris Lubricants;

AG250 = 800-900W crash box oil ,but i usally try the AG140 first , if it is difficult to select gear once warm i change the oil to this one .It didn`t make much differance on my Daimler lorry as it was still a fine art to get second gear when its cold but after about four miles it gets easier.

AG140 = 500W this is what i prefer for the diff as i like the idea of it being thrown around inside and flowing through the bearings and not being too thick.

K4000 or the thicker K400 is a semi liquid grease which i`ve used in the steering boxes 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Our very own “Tomo” is now waving his magic over the bus and is now gaining its identity plus some additional bonus for good measure .

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Edited by PITT24423
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