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Munga talk...


Snapper

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I am still keeping the medics in full time employment, but things are moving on a bit. Hope your father if a lot better, and that the progress will lift his spirits.

The radio fittings were a stores item held at depot level, and issued as required. The idea was that no vehicle required to be dedicated, or moded for radio use. So ALL MUNGA 4's were made ready in build, and the bits drawn from stores and fitted when required. The only tools required being a couple of box spanners for the antenna mounts, with also fitted the battery clamps, and battery box cover. A seat would be removed, and a radio frame fitted with a suitable radio.

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Below is some info about the antenna bases, and the radio that in your photo. The radio is an American design build in Germany by Telefunken. The antenna base, and antennas are the same.

Most MUNGA's were fitted with German built GRC 9, or much later the SEM25/35 series.

 

 

 

 

 

Antenna

Antennen

________________________________________

Unbek. Unknown

Jeep Antenna Set

 

 

Jeep Antennensatz, bestehend aus Federfuß und drei ineinander verschraubbaren Antennenstäben MS 116, MS 117, MS 118A/K; Gesamtlänge ca. 2,5m

 

 

Whip Antenna Set for mobile use,

comes with insulator and antenna elements MS 116, MS 117 and MS 118A/K.

Total length approx. 2,5 meters

 

Unbek. Unknown Jeep Antenna Set

Gewicht/ Weight: 2,5 kg

 

 

________________________________________

Ab Stapel / As is: 20,17 INKLUSIV MWST / 16,95 NETTO (appr. US$ 22 .-)

 

 

 

Transceivers

Sendeempfänger

________________________________________

Unbek. Unknown

AN/VRC8 = RT66/GRC+PP112

 

 

Hallo Jeepfahrer und Bastler, hier DIE Idee: Entfernen Sie doch einfach das Innenleben dieser Funkanlage und bauen Sie einen Cassettenspieler oder ein Autoradio ein.... Ihre Freunde werden verblüfft sein!

Funkanlage AN/VRC 8, eingeführt bei allen NATO - Streitkräften Ende der fünfziger Jahre, bestehend aus:

- Sendeempfänger RT 66 / GRC

- Stromversorgungseinheit PP 112 (24 VDC)

- Kfz Mounting

Frequenzbereich: 20 bis 27,9 MHz - durchstimmbar oder in 100 kHz-Schritten rastbar

Betriebsart: FM

Ausgangsleistung: 16 W oder 2 W

Die Geräte sind laut Bundeswehr okay, von uns jedoch nicht geprüft.

 

 

All NATO Combat Tanks and many other vehicles were equipped with this Radio Set in the late 1950´s:

Radio set, consisting of

- RT66/GRC Receiver - Transmitter

- Mounting

- 24 VDC Power Supply PP112

Frequency range: 20 to 27,9 MHz

Operation mode: F3 - modulation

Maximum output power: 20 W - can be reduced to 2 W.

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my dads today found an article in an old dkw club magazine which states our munga(someone has put its details in with its v reg plate, since got its original 64 plate) as a 1963 one. The plate on the body says 64 so not sure .think there might have been two in the same owners hands at one time .(possibly making 1 good one out of 2)......

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Been in parents garage tonight, dads painted the front of the body in olive drab and what a difference a coat of paint makes ..going to look smart when all done .:coffee:.

Dear Santa please find below my christmas list ,

Clocks

Switches

Wheel trims

seat frame(2 needed for rear)

Engine bay items

Tatty Hood (will use as a pattern)

Grille (desperate for this)

At least one front tow hook.

 

and whatever else you think we need

thankyou willyslancs (age 42 and 3/4)

 

(pm prices please)

Edited by Willyslancs
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I await a return visit to hospital for more surgery, but may not be till new year. But my mother has just had a heart attack, so rushing about tryto visit her and sort things out. Hope your dad, is much better. Hope that the progress is helping him, and giveing him a lift.

If all else fails, get your dash bits to me and I will reburb for you. I may need a nice little light job to keep me indoors!

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hi i'm new to this forum and not sure if to make a new post or just to add to this one "munga talk" ,:) which looks great

I bought a munga in the summer that i've known about for many years a real barn find that had been tucked away since the early eighties , i got chance to buy this but after what i found out about them thought it best if could get it running before i buy it ,,:) once i'd sorted the ellectrics clean 'n' set points to get spark , fresh juice in squeezy bottle she fired up realy sweet , with plenty smoke :) i've just honed out the master cylinder as there was no brake peddle feel , and just starting to remove the engine because the clutch is stuck ,:)

logbook says chassis no 3032020823 if this tells you anything , will try and find some more numbers as will be good to find out a bit more about it , will add some pics in a moment :)

Edited by phil munga
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thanks guys its good to know that help is only a phone call away :-D

 

got some more info from chassis tag

 

type 0,25t Bouwjaar 1963

NATO stock nr 2320-17-706-8490

motor nr 8862028193

chassis nr 3038020823

 

this will help if i reregister it , its on a 1979 V reg at the mo , but does state on the V5 declared manufacture 1963

 

I've got the brakes working but think for safty :) that i might fit a new dual circuit one as fitted to 70's VW beetles or campers , these have a seperate reservoir that feeds the MC through pipes ,, so the reservoir could be fixed under the drivers seat :)

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Hi,Phil.

Your Munga is ex-dutch, 1963. It should have an oil tank on the exhast side of the engine, which has a metering pump fitted to it. So if it works, you don't need to do the 40:1 mix in the petrol tank. Do you have a handbook, or any other tech info? If not get in touch, and I will see can be done to get that to you.

You can ring me on 01752 323841 days, or 01752 481189 evening weekends.

Don't be temped to take the engine apart, as you need special jigs to get it back together. And you lack of pedal, was probably in fact an airlock! The MUNGA brakes, can do this if you are not careful. Also make sure that EP types oils have NOT been used in any part of the vehicle. as it will eat the bronze parts of the gearbox etc. You must use only SAE none ep type oils.

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cheers for the advice Andrew ,:) there does'nt appear to be an oil pump and tank on this one ,might be wrong but dont think there's any pulleys spare to drive one ?

,,,,,,,, fuel tank cap say's 40:1 ,, dont intend to take engine to bits as runs realy sweat :) just going to clean it up ,

 

there does seam to be a bit of oil on the bottom of the gearbox

but none on the floor ,, will check it over for play in the input and output shafts ,, ,, not drove it yet as clutch was stuck ,,

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Phil

You find that past owners have tried to make Dutch MUNGAs, into German army ones. So you may have bits of both fitted, but just means you need to premix fuel. And the MUST, stir the tank each day before use. You should find a bit of steel wire on the inside of the filler cap, which you need to pull gently. On the bottom of this in the tank, is a paddle with a spring. You need to do 15-20 pulls, to mix the petrol/oil mix. With modern oils, you can get away with 45-50 to 1 mix. But don't push the engine too much, if you do that.

You will find when you drive, you need lots of revs. It sounds very crazy frog, but that's normal. Once the ngine is warm, the exhaust should not be tto smokey. The other things with driving the MUNGA, is that due to the 4 wheel drive system. If you do tight turns, it "feels" like the brakes are binding. It's just that with no central diff, it can't get around tight unless the tyres skid a bit.

Once you are ready, send me a "wish list" of parts required. I will try and see what can be found.

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cheers for all the advice Andrew :) I'll have a look in the tank ,, I'm not sure if this one has been made to a German army one ,, person i got this from her late husband used to do rock drilling and blasting and at one point it has been painted of all colours yellow :nono: ,, then later black not sure when it was painted but it was black when i first saw it in the barn more than 15years ago ,,

:) , lots of revs it'll be great if it sounds like the old Terex supercharged two stroke diesel loadind shouvels :)

these mungas must be light enough and strong enough to cope with having no middle diff , old landys used to snap half shafts if on tarmac in four wheel drive ,, I'll be looking through some parts that came with it not sure one came with it but have not seen the centre cover for the steering wheel ,,,,thanks again :)

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Phil

Almost all MUNGAs in UK were imported in a block from Holland, which were ex-Dutch. But many spares were imported, which were for German MUNGAs. The joints on the axles are only used on the MUNGA, and not normal UJs. But you must make sure that all the tyres are the same size. Jack each corner up, get a tape and measure round each tyres. All must be not more that 1 to 1 1/2 inches differant from each other.

The MUNGA is very strong, but water sitting in the body is the main problem. Paint should be NATO semi matt green, and all came from factory like that. The bit that's in the middle of the steering wheel is the horn push, which I may have a spare of.

Speed on road, max about 60 MPH! But that is like traveling at the speed of light, and not for faint harted! Off road, in low box you can with four up you get up 60 degree banks.

But expent to be stopped by the police, and "AUDI" owners. The police will be curious, and will want a ride. The "AUDI" owners will moan about the badge. It's VW that took over Auto Union (who built the MUNGA) that took the 4 rings badge and used it for AUDI.

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:) hi I've looked at the fuel tank filler and can'nt see a bit of steel wire on the inside of the filler cap for mixing the fuel/oil , will get a better look inside with a light , the fuel cap on the underside has what looks like a measuring cup for the oil , would I be right in thinking this ?

 

dont live far from millitary offroad testing grounds above Catterick Garrison , have seen quite a few Dutch ( i think ) over last two weeks , in what look to be Mercedes G Wagens or puch G's so might be able to go up and mingle :-D ,,, How would i go about trailor lighting plug , is it common to 24v trucks ??

 

Think brother is getting me some paint he used to work at REME , now works independent repairing & painting landrovers ,+ pinzagaur's also hulands , :)

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Yes, cup is for oil. The NATO trailer plug is common to all NATO forces, and is the same for 12/24 volts. The tank cap may have been put on to replace a damaged one, and not for a pre-mix. The other way to find out, is take the woden cover off the petrol tank inside of the MUNGA. Is you look at each end, you should see the access plates for the paddel.

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