Jump to content

RAF Leyland workshop lorry

Great War truck

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, andypugh said:

Also shows that the motor drives a ring gear on the flywheel of the lathe. So I am rather sure that it is a Drummond lathe. 


Shows what looks like _exactly_ the same lathe, with the leadscrew handwheel and clasp nut on the side of the apron. 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note, also, that the Drummond double-height-bed 5" lathe in this photo is being used with a powered overhead to grind a crank journal. 



And the far end of the crank is being supported by a Con-rod held in the drilling vice on the drill press 🙂

That's a Gosling level of machine capacity stretching. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The narrow gauge War Department Light Railway workshop trains are well illustrated in WDLR Album by Roy Link. They seem to be built onto the standard D Class bogie wagon chassis and are therefore longer than the IWM example. Could be the source of the idea that it was once a railway wagon, although it would have had to be cut down.

Edited by simon king
Duplication of idea
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

So at "Woolpit Steam" last year, my brother got a lead on a Drummond lathe of the correct pattern for his workshop body. The deal was that we had to find an equivalent lathe to replace it - it was still being used. So a slightly more up-to-date Boxford with all the ancillaries was duly found, dismantled and delivered to its new home.

The Boxford was reassembled on site, meanwhile the Drummond was stripped and loaded in the back of the car. This has been thoroughly paraffin washed and allowed to dry before applying linseed oil to bring up the original paintwork.

He has a 3-jaw and 4-jaw chuck as per the original specification, though not sure they are the originals, also the face-plate and a steady that can either be fixed or travelling. There's also a selection of change wheels, but not the complete set. These do turn up - patience is required. This lathe looks to have never has a treadle fitted.

He is missing the original 110V dc motor, also the cast iron knee that supported it. However, everything else is in wonderful order. There's even the ASC requisition plate below the makers' plate.

The weather was clement in Suffolk today and with the aid of our neighbour's fork-lift, the lathe was lifted into place.IMG_7342.thumb.JPG.432d217ac4d215fa633bd09cb90bb1cf.JPG

Preparing for the lift. This platform / side panel was the one which had the hole for the stove-pipe cut through.

Note the temporary roof. Shelter from the sun (and rain!) at GDSF 2018.


Carefully lifting into position.


Note "War Finish" stencil on the end of the bed, just above the leg.



Final position. Dimensions measured from the body at Duxford.

Many thanks to the curatorial team there, who have been extremely helpful and accommodating.

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Cel said:

That looks very good! Do you have the other tools and dynamo? It will make a great display when finished.



My brother only has the lathe and the switchboard. Switchboard is Austin and has W^D on one of the meters. Differs from the Duxford example in that it is open, not in a cabinet. Also the voltage regulator is built into the panel whereas the Duxford example has the voltage regulator bolted onto the dynamo. We understand it was discovered in a motor repair garage. May have been W^D surplus equipment, re-purposed. Or may have been constructed by Austin for civilian use, using surplus W^D components. 

He is looking for the following tools:IMG_6125.thumb.JPG.c73b8f8b4626ae27f6d8b1b63dd9c884.JPG

Silver Mfg Co No 24 drillIMG_6127.thumb.JPG.1fa0a9ee1f88bfbec48d2fc195d0decb.JPG

Luke & Spencer grinderIMG_6131.thumb.JPG.a4de3f2095d307a36b2bfa09822ae663.JPG

Wolf electric drill & stand

He also needs an Austin 8 hp, 4 cylinder T-head radiator cooled 110v generating set with 3.5 kw dynamo and shunt regulator.



  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

This tatty old case once contained spark plug testing apparatus (according to a stencil on the side). More recently it, like the Leyland chassis on which the workshop body is mounted, was used by an East Anglian showman. It's just the right size for Drummond lathe accessories, so has been repurposed.





Some additional fitting out will be required before the chucks, steady and change gears are stowed in the box.


Many thanks to a generous benefactor for donating this finishing touch.


  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good things must come to an end and for David, three weeks of furlough finished Friday. Back to work Monday morning. He feels the time has not been entirely wasted; I tend to agree.


Steaming the first of four hoops for the workshop roof. Actually we steamed five so we would have a spare, just in case...

IMG_7506.thumb.JPG.3549ca68111f965e0a0d6af90722db79.JPGHoops clamped in place and to a temporary ridge piece. This will be removed once he has finished clambering about on the roof.


Boarding out.




Canvas laid out and trimmed to size.


Rolled back in preparation for applying the adhesive. Bulldog clips at either end are a precaution against the canvas sliding down the roof.


Liberal application of "Williamsons Roof Canvas Bonding"


Edges turned over and tacked in position. Covering laths to follow.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good.  You don't seem to have a lot of room to work upon the roof with the roof frames so close,  and I do hope the roller door is not all the way up or you will have to let the air out of the solid rubber tyres. LOL!    When I restored my Albion A10 I only had 1.5 inches clearance both sides and to the bottom of the open roller door to the top of the front board.  The canopy frames had to be made removable as the canopy was about 8 inches higher than the door opening.


Link to comment
Share on other sites


You're right, not much room to spare, but this is the only shed tall enough. The roller shutter does just go up high enough to get the Leyland out, but you have to be careful not to wind the door clean out of the guides. When David has sorted through the pictures, I'll post a selection of the body at various stages of construction (or reconstruction) being moved from one shed to another each time it outgrew its home.

All the best,


Link to comment
Share on other sites

What was the procedure with applying paint to the canvas. Is the yellow paint a sealer only ? 

I recall making canvas covered canoes all those years ago and sealing the canvas with linseed oil before applying the various paint layers. The weight of the canoe increased greatly due to the addition of the paint.  

 I was expecting that I would follow a similar line to that used years ago, come the day when a roof is ready here. One day...


Link to comment
Share on other sites


Yes, it is a linseed oil based product. A good coating is first applied to the roof timbers. Next the canvas is folded back over the adhesive and bedded down with a roller. During this process you start to see the compound coming through the weft of the cloth. Finally a second coat  is applied to the exterior surface of the canvas before the whole is left to dry. Thereafter painting gives the final colour.

As you recall, the product is extremely heavy - too dense for the tins - the bottoms bulge so far as to touch the floor.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/17/2020 at 3:21 PM, nz2 said:

What was the procedure with applying paint to the canvas. Is the yellow paint a sealer only ? 

I recall making canvas covered canoes all those years ago and sealing the canvas with linseed oil before applying the various paint layers. The weight of the canoe increased greatly due to the addition of the paint.  

 I was expecting that I would follow a similar line to that used years ago, come the day when a roof is ready here. One day...


Not entirely sure how important complete accuracy is but, a couple of summers ago I was restoring a '60's vintage wood/canvas canoe and used this to fill the canvas. It wasn't difficult (rub in with another piece of canvas) and made a very nice and aterproof finish.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Citroman said:

Ran into this 1919 ad.



Love the ad - and even more so the copy. One of my Vaxuhall Manuals (only from the late 60's) says words to the effect of "the average person should be able to remove the engine in about 2 hours." Not sure where that 'average person' is these days. 😅

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

For many restoration projects it's the small details that make a big difference; the Leyland workshop certainly falls into this category. 

David is very fortunate to have an original Austinlite switchboard but this is missing five out of seven fuses. Back in early March I sourced some Tufnol tube to make replacements however this didn't arrive in Bristol until long after I had scarpered. 

Now things are back to a version of normality that if not normal is becoming scarily familiar, I've found a few spare moments to start fuse making. 

"A picture speaks a thousand words" they say. So to spare my writing and your reading, here's a selection of photos depicting the process:




Parting off tubes


turning the shoulders 


drilling out the bore



harvesting blanks


turning the outside diameter



drilling out the clearance holes



breaking sharp edges. We'll not say too much about that...


assembled (with a dab of superglue for good measure)


with an original for comparison. I have a length of brass square to make the end connection blocks. There's several hours work ahead of me. I'll keep you posted. 


  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Remember when lock-downs were still a novelty? Well, back in March 2020 this rather delightful little beauty appeared on our favourite on-line auction site. In response to the "Make and Offer" option an offer was made, which was promptly refused. The drill was subsequently bought second bid. A forum stalwart kindly took delivery and when free movement was once again possible (which now seems a distant memory) it made its way up country to Oxfordshire. Finally, after the 2nd lock-down was over, we were able to collect it.



So we have a Silver Manufacturing Co. Advance No. 12 drill. A little smaller than the No. 24 as listed in the parts book, hence the oak spacer block, but maybe if we keep it warm and nurture it, it might grow.



In the real world, maybe one will turn up. But in the mean-time, this is a good substitute.

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites


10 minutes ago, Great War truck said:

That looks great. Which bits are you still on the lookout for?

You're very kind. 

Still looking for Luke and Spencer grinder, 110V Wolf drill and stand, 4-cylinder Austinlite generator. As illustrated earlier in this post. 

Also looking for a Leyland 36HP inlet manifold for the lorry.

Any leads greatly appreciated. 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...