Chris Hall Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 That’s why I was asking, perhaps that’s why it had replacement wheels. I don’t think the little 350 wheels are strong enough unlike the CO rear wheel! That thing is good for at least 750cc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 Maybe Chris. As it happens the front wheel was a very rare Triumph 'heavyweight' girder wheel and the tank from a KM20 so both worth quite a bit. Talking of rare bits. As you know I was asking around, trying to locate a WD/C ally rear brake plate for my bike. Just on the off chance, I put the part number into Hitchcock's search box. Luv a Duck, Stripe me Pink guv! They had one NOS!!!??? £31 delivered!!! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 I know how hard it is to find a KM20 tank, I was looking for one for ages and when I did, it cost me a fortune. good find on the brake plate, I wonder how long they’ve had that!! is that a Lithgow Vickers Gun sat behind the Enfield? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 All part of my arsenal Chris! Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 She’s a beauty, Australian by the looks of it, I have 2 my self with one being an original Cutaway model. What else is in the arsenal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Sending PM! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 (edited) I've split the flywheels to reveal a badly worn, non standard crowded roller big end. Fortunately the shafts are about perfect. I've ordered one of Hitchcock's caged roller big ends a small end bush and new rollers for the mains. I've also stripped the mag to reveal some loosely assembled new parts, but what looks like very poor condition armature windings. The points housing is the wrong hand but I have the correct housing. So will drop the whole box of bits to my mag guy tomorrow. Ron Edited October 22, 2019 by Ron spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewdco Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) As explained in a previous post, the bike was found with a pair of Triumph wheels fitted. We found a pair of WD/C wheels, but needed an early aluminium brake plate for the rear wheel. Fortunately forum member Niek who owns a late spec WD/C wanted to swap his perfect alli brake plate for a steel brake plate, which would have been correct for his bike. We didn’t have a WD/C steel brake plate either, but a steel brake plate from a post war Model G (which was available) could be converted… The back plate is identical, the front plate had to be replaced. Drill out the spot welds, clean the back plate, make a new front plate, assemble, job done. Edited October 25, 2019 by rewdco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewdco Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) And here’s the aluminium brake plate that we will be using for this early WD/C. It came with a triangular bracket for the anchor rod, this was a later factory modification. So one hole in the aluminium plate had to be plugged, and the anchor rod is now in its correct (early) position. Edited October 25, 2019 by rewdco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewdco Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 The early WD/C uses Amal’s “Clean Handlebars”, where (some of) the cables run inside the bars. Unfortunately the handlebars on this project had been replaced, so we had to find / make a correct set. Lex found handlebars with the correct shape and dimensions, but they needed quite a bit of work… They had to be straightened, repaired, a slot for the internal twistgrip had to be milled, a few extra holes had to be made, and the pivot clamps for the levers (from a set of donor handlebars) had to be welded in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewdco Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Also made up a missing bracket for the rear mudguard, and some stainless fasteners for the front wheel... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 Nice work Jan, I have all seen it already ofcourse, but nice it is! Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 I Stripped the gearbox today for inspection and drill out a snapped bolt. All looks good inside and the nice outer cover from ebay arrived. All the fixings have been stripped and cleaned ready for chemical blacking. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted November 6, 2019 Author Share Posted November 6, 2019 Good work guys!! I purchased the gearbox, that my local motorcycle scrapyard first didn't want to sell, but he agreed now, and I took it off his hands, along with some more Matchless parts. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 I've gone as far as I can go with Lex's frame and engine, until the fasteners are returned from the platers. I was pleased to find that the steering head races are in excellent condition, so just replaced the steel balls with best quality British balls. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 Just some pictures from the the previous French owner , how he purchased the bike, it was used after the war by a priest, so it could have been baptised…. The prev. owner(s) thought, or hoped the bike was from 1937, and the French papers confirm that, don't know how that came to be, probably because it was taken from some British depot, where it was stored, and just after the fighting in 1940, it must have been "liberated", and hid for 5 years of occupation, and to avoid any questions, the date of 1937 was "invented" just after the war, and the bike put to good use! Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 On 11/9/2019 at 9:35 AM, Ron said: I've gone as far as I can go with Lex's frame and engine, until the fasteners are returned from the platers. I was pleased to find that the steering head races are in excellent condition, so just replaced the steel balls with best quality British balls. Ron You got the balls Ron!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 I've collected the first batch of fasteners I sent for plating so able to do some assembling. I've assembled lots of girder forks over the years and I think I might have said it before, but Royal Enfield WD/C's take the biscuit for the most awkward!!🥴 Ron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Slow going with this one! But here are some pictures of where I'm up to at the moment. Ron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 Very nice Ron!!! will bring the following. Zero miles….. Cheers, Lex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 By the way, original rear brake plate swopped with a later one, with a Belgium friend, very nice! Magneto ready too, we're getting somewhere! Cheers, Lex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 (edited) Magneto fitted and timed, cylinder head fins repaired, and fitted, rear number plate painted and fitted, original exhaust cleaned, painted and fitted, speedo fitted with the cable, not bad for an afternoons work Ron! Thanks, Lex Edited February 2, 2020 by welbike more pictures 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 The tank was full of holes after (and before) blasting, so extensive repairs needed, or if anyone has another tank? after the first try it was still leaking, so maybe better after the second try? Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltwtbarmy Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 May I suggest POR 15 from Frost UK? Have done three fuel tanks so far, including a Zundapp one and have had no issues whatsoever. I also use the stuff on Jaguar radiator expansion tanks because they tend to rust easily and have had no problems with them either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Yes much as we try to avoid tank liner/sealer, we have decided to probably go that route. Thanks for the suggestion as I've been studying the market for the best Ethanol proof option. Today's efforts after some more "three steps forward and two steps back" include the primary case foot rests brake pedal and a start on the wiring.....Dynamo and regulator at least. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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