Jolley electronic ignition

[Brooky]

I fitted the system to my Morris CS8. No end of problems with it burning out rotor arms and coils. I think that the spark was to powerfull for old rotor arms. Ended up buying any rotor arm that would fit!!! In the end after yet another breakdown converted it back to points.........no further problems!!!!

Wouldnt touch the system with a bargepole for older vehicles, just get the original system well maintained, just my experience you understand

[Tony B]

have to say my Dodge runs fine on it, and very welcome improvment. There is the problem that adding new kit to a 'comfortably worn' system it does have a tendency to show up the rest of the cracks.

[Richard Farrant]

I fitted the system to my Morris CS8. No end of problems with it burning out rotor arms and coils. I think that the spark was to powerfull for old rotor arms.

 

 

Brooky,

 

In my opinion, if the HT voltage was same as normal ignition, the system would be better, because it is the removal of contract breakers, that is the important thing with the system. I have fitted Boyer Bransden units that still use the points, but in a very low current, switching mode and they increase performance and starting is better, with out the worries of burning out hard to source parts as the voltage of the HT is unaltered as far as I am aware.

 

This is interesting because I thought the rotor arm failure was a rare problem, but it seems it is not.

[Brooky]

Point taken (no pun intended!!) I came to the conclusion that the spark was too powerful ( it would jump between an inch and two inches) when you look at the thickness of bakelite between the copper on the top of rotor arm and earth (the spindle of the distibutor)the spark will seek out any weakness. I would go through rotor arms in 50 miles!!

As I said I wouldnt touch the system again. I also found out (an expensive lesson) that the module didnt have any reverse polarity protection and a mistake in the wiring blew the module

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

No polarity protection:nono: i am surprised at that for the price,i can see why you would have the ache with it.What we need is the old SPARKMATIC who remembers that.:-D

[Chrisg]

No polarity protection:nono: i am surprised at that for the price,i can see why you would have the ache with it.What we need is the old SPARKMATIC who remembers that.:-D

 

Didn't he have a magic piano?

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

Didn't he have a magic piano?

:n00b:

[Chrisg]

:n00b:

 

Ouch...

[ArtistsRifles]

No polarity protection:nono: i am surprised at that for the price,i can see why you would have the ache with it.What we need is the old SPARKMATIC who remembers that.:-D

 

Funnily enough - I do...... :sweat::sweat:

[Phil P]

Brooky I am amazed. The electronic ignition only acts as a switching medium. The HT spark doesn't build up and trail off again as in points but just goes bang for a very precise period of time. The problem with the Bedford rotor arm it is probably NOS and very likely is crazed or has aging cracks running through it. Dodges, Jimmies and J**ps etc have usually got repro parts fitted and don't suffer from aging cracks. It might be possible to adapt a rotor arm off something that they are still currently manufactured for. I don't know if that is a possibility I haven't studied it though saying that I know a guy who has just finished a 1935 Bedford 3 way tipper with a model 26 engine and has fitted a reconditioned dizzy on it. Did you check the air gap for the rotor arm to dizzy cap terminals. Did the rotor arm wobble and catch the terminals. It does sit on top of the magnet on the distributor shaft. I have no doubt you did check all these things but it is worth a second check. I remember trying to start a vehicle that when I turned the ignition on there was no reading. I tried the lights...nothing. Checked the fuses and all ok. I walked to the work bench to get my test meter and on the way fell over something on the floor. It was the battery bubbling away on charge!!Doh.

 

It is a shame to blame the Jolley unit. Why not speak to Frank Jolley. My Dodge ran like **** with some NOS Champion J6 plugs because more spark went down the porcelain than down the conductor. So I binned them and fitted new NGK. Problem solved.

 

The other thing is get your engine set up on a Crypton or similar. The problem will become obvious on the screen. ie the plugs and leads having a high resistance. It's the daft things that stop vehicles 99% of the time.

 

Phil.

[Bodger Baz]

i have used them on jeeps and have the following experiance

 

12volt jeep = excellent, sprak so powerful that you need modern leads to cope with it, or the spark will go all over the show! we have advanced the timing until it ran its best.

 

6 volt jeep = had to run a new feed to the ignition switch directly from the battery to sort out the cold starting (starter robbing the volts), then had running issues that were put down to the timing being too retarded! do not use the original timing marks as they were for 72 octone petrol! i spoke to Frank and he was very helpful when i had troubles after fitting the kit. have not done many miles on this one yet as i have only just refitted it.

 

both certainly run smoother and pick up quicker, the 12 volt jeep has now done over 2000 miles without fault.

one complaint is the fact niether kit came with a rubber bung type thing to fill the large hole in the dissy where the old base plate used to exit and the new wires go in! prone to letting water in!

 

fitting one to a DUKW next so will keep you updated.

 

 

Baz

[LeeEnfield]

I've (still) got set sitting in its bag,......after replacing dizzy with RL one, (cheers for the parts and advice, Pete Gaine ) the bedford runs like a dream..........(says he, with fingers x'd :sweat:)

 

Andy

[Tkelly1250]

I need some help. I added the Jolley system and timing changed quite a lot. I used timing light and turned dizzy clockwise as far as it will go. I still need about 1 inch more to have timing correct, but dizzy won't turn anymore? Any ideas? Thanks. Tim:-)

[Grasshopper]

Try moving each HT lead around 1 position anti-clockwise. If at the same time fully turn your dizzy anti clock wise, you will have a whole new timing range. Don't forget to mark things before you move them or it can all get a bit confusing if you need to move it all back!

[afvnut75]

Well i fitted this ignition kit to my ferret and bloody hell shes had a new lease of life but this question of polarity does bother me so i shall do something to modify it if i can :cool2: i shall also be fitting the kit to my saracen and see what happens .

 

Fingers crossed ill hopefully have two b series vehicles that will be up for anything without anything making nasty acrid smells :nut:

[Phil P]

I'm now up to 4000 miles with my electronic ignition on my '42 WC51. It's now on my recently fitted rebuilt engine. The other engine had badly leaking front and rear oil seals so iI was swapped for my spare one. The new engine at first didn't run as well the original so I stuck it on the Crypton and there was a high resistance reading from the coil to dizzy. I took the cap off and the centre electrode was burnt away. I changed the cap and fitted the spare rotor arm and re checked it. The reading was back down to where it should be. The plug readings were also high so I regapped them at 35 thou instead of 45 thou I had been running and they gave a better reading. The timing is still at 7 degrees BTDC. The engine runs beautifully again. A £1 coin will stand on the oil filler cap with it idling at 350 RPM. It pulls like a train. The electrode burning was obviously caused by to biggwer gap on the plugs. The emmissions are better than most modern cars. When my Willys J££££p is finished that will be fitted with a Jolley electronic ignition and running 12 volts system.

 

A mate of mine has just fitted a 'Sparkrite 2000' that he bought from a car boot sale for £5-00 onto a Meadows 4EL petrol engine in his 1951 Guy Otter van. That runs like a watch but he had to spend a lot of time re engineering the distributor to make it run true and get an equal point gap on all 4 lobes. Breaker less ignition systems like the Jolley version don't have that problem.

 

Phil P