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Crossley IGL 3


smiffy

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The clutch brake is pivoted on a eccentric pin to allow for adjustment . I machined up  a suitable pin and fitted a bushed sleeve to the end of the clutch brake . This is a very tight fit in the chassis .

It looks like an after thought as the is very little clearance between the cross member and clutch disc on the gearbox input shaft  . I need to find a suitable piece of friction material to line the brake with and that will be another job done

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I ordered  a meter of 6 inch wide balata belt to make a new fabric drive disc . The first step was to cut 3 discs and glue them together . I then mounted them on a face plate and machined them to a nominal 6 inch disc , not easy to machine but ended up with something that is near enough round.

I cut out 12 reinforcing plates and marked and drilled the 6 holes . Next job is to make the rivets to hold the plates in place 

It should work ok and a lot cheaper than the quote that I had of over £300 per coupling to have new ones made to original spec 

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8 hours ago, smiffy said:

I ordered  a meter of 6 inch wide balata belt to make a new fabric drive disc . The first step was to cut 3 discs and glue them together .

Nice work there, Smiffy.  And exactly the job I have to do on my Leyland at some point.  what glue did you use, and was the Balata belt to any particular spec.?

Thanks, Dave.   S&F

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1 hour ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

Nice work there, Smiffy.  And exactly the job I have to do on my Leyland at some point.  what glue did you use, and was the Balata belt to any particular spec.?

Thanks, Dave.   S&F

The balata belting came from https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Flat-belting/   They only do belting up to 6 inches wide so that had to do ,I could really have done with some 6.5 inch material .

The other alternative would be canvas reinforced  conveyor belting . Years ago I would have had something suitable in the yard  but all long since gone  Since moving  a few years ago I no longer have any contacts in the quarrying  industry

Its almost impossible to get access to such places to ask for any second hand material .The same as scrap yards .

I used Gorilla glue as its what I had .Hopefully the reverted plates will hold it all together  

I do have some larger drive discs what size PCD do you need   Mike

 

 

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9 hours ago, smiffy said:

I do have some larger drive discs what size PCD do you need   Mike

 

Thanks Smiffy,  I just measured mine and they are 6 inch dia and 11.25 in diameter.  Oddly, the parts list shows the two coupling should be the same size (Leyland SQ), o maybe i have a cuckoo.  More research needed, but your technique is most interesting.  Cheers, Dave

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Riveting  the plates on was a bit difficult as the rivets bent into the softer balata instead of forming heads at each end . I made the rivets out of 10 gauge gas welding rod .

The whole drive shaft is a very tight fit but it is in place  Next job will be too make bolts to the correct length and make some castle nuts 

Then I will have to dismantle for a clean up and sort the paint out . 

Dave if you let me know the PCD of the bolt holes I will see what I have .  11 inch disc seems rather large  . My dics are 4.5 pcd of the bolt holes and 6 inch od

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Next job on the gear box is the pto . Originally it would have been fitted with a pto driven compressor this is long gone but I do have a pto out put shaft  and a suitable period hydraulic pump.

After being sold this truck worked in a quarry and was possible fitted with a hydraulic tipping body . 

 The pump I have was still bolted to the chassis but every thing else had gone

Today I rebuilt the pto ready for refitting

The main shaft which runs in plain bearings was well worn so I machined it and made new bearings 

To save making a mandrel to machine the od of the bearing I bored it to size and the used  locktight to hold it on the shaft to machine it to size. Then warmed it up to break the lock tight .

Pressed the bearings into the housing  , made new gaskets and fitted the end plate. 

The  shaft is sealed by a stuffing box  . so had to raid the box of graphite packing and chose some graphite rope that was small enough to fit in the box and fitted the gland nut .

Does anyone knows of a suitable period hydraulic ram for a tipping body ?

I will make a suitable tipping body when time permits 

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Fitted the pto and started on repairing the hydraulic pump.

The pump body and reservoir is a  aluminum casting . It had 4 corner  flanges for mounting it , 3 of these are broken 

I cut a suitable piece of plate and welded it to one corner as a trial 

The aluminum welded ok but needed a lot more amps than I would normally use for a repair like this   I had to resharpen the electrode several time due to impurities coming out of the original aluminum

The pump bodies and delivery valves are bronze with a total weight of 28 lbs 

The oil return to the pump body is via the centre of the pump drive shaft through a hole in each eccentric drive to the pistons . 

All the wearing parts are in very good condition 

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I have also done some work on all the small annoying bits that take ages . These include both foot and hand throttle linkages ,manual advance and retard linkages .  Most of this was missing or in a very bad state

There is also a linkage from the clutch that turns the the self cleaning oil filter . Ever time the clutch is depressed a lever moves a  ratchet on the auto clean filter  to turn it about 20 degrees

The auto clean filter is made up of a series of discs  anchored to the main shaft , in between each disc is a .005 1nch shim that is supposed to scrape any gunge into a separate small sump under the oil filter .

Every 500 miles this sump is drained 

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