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Bedford MWC restoration


64EK26

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5 hours ago, goanna said:

Excellent work. Is the lid for the filter a casting ? If so what is the material ? 

 

 

Made of fibreglass....

Make a wooden pattern

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Make a silicone mold

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Layer up the fibreglass with brass inserts

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Now I have the pattern, I could get then cast in brass (but that is very expensive)

The beauty about using fibreglass, it is light, strong, cheap and waterproof.

 

 

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Next installment...

Fitted the offside rear mudguard, the plate that sits on top of the mudguard is all bolted bown

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Made good progress on the "T" port valve that sits on top of the tank, 7/8" BSP inlets ftom the filters and 1" BSP to the tank.

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A little more work, especially on the handle as it is a bit too big

Cheers Richard

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5 hours ago, 67burwood said:

Can I ask where to bought to anti slip plates from?

Hi

It is called pyramid edging, sometimes it has a small lip on it that can easily be ground of with a flappy disc sander.

Here is the link to where got mine from

https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/25NOSE2__Pyramid_Non_slip_Nosing_35_x_5_x_3000mm

you can probably get it from other suppliers, it is a very good match for the war time type.

Cheers

Richard

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9 minutes ago, 64EK26 said:

Hi

It is called pyramid edging, sometimes it has a small lip on it that can easily be ground of with a flappy disc sander.

Here is the link to where got mine from

https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/25NOSE2__Pyramid_Non_slip_Nosing_35_x_5_x_3000mm

you can probably get it from other suppliers, it is a very good match for the war time type.

Cheers

Richard

Many thanks, my Wot6 is missing it from one of the step plate👍

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Hi

I have reduced the size of the T port handle and it looks a lot better

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Also made a bit more progress on the split pillow/plummer block that supports the front end of the power pump

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It is made from two heavy duty  trailer jockey wheel clamps that I sliced and welded together. The ends were faced by a friends fly cutter and the hole bored out to 2" diameter. brass bits on top to make it a bit more like an original one (photo of Tomas Higgins MWC)

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The back end of the power pump is attached and supported by a bracket that is attached to the chassis, this can be seen the photo below (also Tomas Higgins MWC)

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Just thinking of ways to make this as the power pump I acquired had a simple ring strap,

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which was used to support the weight of the pump when mounted on the front of the vehicle

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Cheers

Richard

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Not much progress this week, limited time at the "shed", but did manage to get the hand pump supports brackets partially made

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Thanks to Pete Ashby for supplying me with pattern for the supports (and some useful photos), hopefully will be cutting the back in the next couple of days and welding them up next week, this is what the should look like

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Next on my list is to attemt to make the facy valves that goes at the bottom of the pump (unless anyone has any of these that they wish to sell),

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this is specially for MWC's as other bowsers have a different arrangement for selecting hand pumping or power pumping. When the power pump is used, the water flows though the hand pump to the filters

Cheers

Richard

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi

Not posted for a few weeks, but I have been busy

I have spent some time making bits for the power pump, the one that I acquired was for an early MWC (see notes in previous posts) and needed some some modifications. The outlet of the pump did not well under the tank and also it did not have a third port for the pressure releif valve, so new top made

This is the original output (the "Y" is the output ports)

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and this is the newly manufactured one fitted to the pump (it is not an exact copy but it will do what an original one does (thanks to Tomas Higgins for some additional photos of the power pump)

 

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Thanks to Pete Ashby for take the measurement of the pressure relief valve, ny truck need three of these , one on the power pump and one on each of hand pumps (still looking for these)

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I had already made the front pump support,  the rear was proving a bit more difficult as the reat of the pump is 3" in diameter and the clamp width is about 1". On eBay I happened to come across a sanitary/kitchen pipe clamp which was advertsed as a 3" pipe clamp (just perfect I thought), the clamp is american made but made for a 3"BSP pipe. So I turned up an Aluminium split shell to fill the gap between the pump and the clamp.

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Welded up a support backet that sits on the chassis cross member, the clamp bolts though into this (3/8" UNC bolts, these are what came with the clamp) nett resut

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Next job is to convert the drive mechanism to a chain driven one. This will unfortunately means cutting the drive shaft as it is a bit too long. The modification I will be doing will mean that it can be returned to its original state at a later date.

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Due to the rotational direcion of the pump, all the threads on the end will be left hand ones. The chain is the same as the timong chain that used on a Bedford 28HP (looking for a scrap one of these)

Next update in a couple of weeks

Cheers

Richard

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Been doing a bit of tinkering in the "shed"

Gun Mounts coming along nicely

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Wiring slowing taking shape

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Decals for master switch from Simon King (on this forum, I think he has some left)

does help having a A0 wiring diagram to hand

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Also taking the slack out of accelerator linkages using home made brass bushes

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  • 7 months later...

Hi - I have ony just recently been able to get to my truck, but in the mean time I have been busy making bits. The most difficult bits to find for an MWC are the pumps and filters. In the first lockdown I made some replica filters, in the second lockdown I decided to make the hand pumps. Today I gave one of them a test.... They are made as close as I could to the original specification. I had originally made the barrels out of aluminium, but brass and aluminium and water don't go well together. The aluminium ones look the part but aren't function and will find good homes in due course

Trial fitted on my MWC

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These are the aluminium ones

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The pistons are the most difficult bit to make as they have internal valves

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Yesterday I tested the first one at home...

Worked well

Cheers

Richard

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8 hours ago, goanna said:

Did you have a original pump on loan to copy ? 

Hi

Sadly no, but a friend of mine did make some good overall drawings for me, I used these and the sectional drawing from the manual.

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I used thes to make better drawings like this

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so I could machine it.

I have made the wall thicknesses a bit bigger than the originals as the original pistons did suffer fromfrost damage as shown in the photo below.

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(note the crack in the piston body)

The differences in walll thickness will have little difference on the pumping capacity of the hand pump. I can see why they would prefer to use the power pump.

Cheers

Richard

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27 minutes ago, cordenj said:

Do you think you'll be at Capel with the truck?

Hi John

I will be there, but I don't think the MWC will be all finished by then, still have plenty to do, but I am in the home stretch and the end is in sight 🤞

Cheers

Richard

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15 hours ago, goanna said:

Sorry to be a pest . How did you machine the recessed valve section in the piston ?

Hi Mike

No problem, feel free to ask questions...

The original ones were cast, but mine is made in two parts, firstly the main barrel of the piston is machined with a cutouts

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Then a blank is made to slot into the gap

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The blank is then machined with the slot for the lever

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The two parts are then soldered together and then machined round

I use FreeCad to do all my drawings, I will e-mail you the CAD files for you to play with (these files are for reference, I did make some adjustments to make machining easier)

Cheers

Richard

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