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Saladin Brake Cylinders


timbo
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Having got fed up with running what is effectively a total loss braking system (ie pour in large quantities of expensive ISO10 which promptly pours out!)....I have decided to have a go at changing the cylinder seals. Got new seals (not NOS) from Richard Banister, and was expecting this to be fairly straightforward.

 

But....for most of the cylinders they seem to be fouled either by the handbrake cables, or steering gear. The brake cables won't come off without removing a roadwheel. Am I missing an easy way of doing this?

 

Also, was thinking about trying to get some seals made in polyurethane, which seems to be recommended for this type of application, but the new seals are quite a shiny, plasticky material so I suspect may already made of this. Andy J if you're out there I think you were going to try a different material - any success?

 

Cheers

Timbo

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Timbo ,

 

I have had the same problem with my Saladin. 3 years ago I had two sets of seals made which I fitted to both center wheel stations. To date they have not leaked. The rubber seals seem to last two years at best. On some of the wheel stations (not sure which) you have to disconnect the handbrake so as to get the cable out of the way. The steering linkage should not be a problem.

It takes me around two hours to change a pair of cylinders with the wheel on and less than an hour with the wheel off.

After 24 years I've had lots of practice!!

 

Andy

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Thanks Andy very helpful

 

I think my plan will be to remove the wheels. The centre right wheel station has a very pronounced bend in the ball joint, which must have happened a long time ago as the wheels are all straight - I suspect it was the result of being fork-lifted pre restoration. I do have some spare NOS wheel stations so I will try and get a spare off them. Anyway the upshot is that the ball joint is hard up against the cylinder on that side so it has to come off anyway...

 

Always something to do!

 

Cheers

Tim

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