restoration New project - Mk 1 Knocker 6x6

[Brooky]

Daft as it may seem Aldi (other German supermarkets are available) have just had in stock some Bluetooth headsets for motorcycles

Maybe worth investigating?

[ArtistsRifles]

Getting a bit carried away with the Military abrieviations here. ANR kit? etc looks nice in the pictures, 352 is clansman kit if I remember right, all going over my head a bit.

 

Anyway reality. Militant wiring is simple in the extreme by todays standards so taking a spur off of the mains to power an intercom would be easy. Fitting a master switch across the batteries is a good anti theft device as well.

 

I did try a civvy intercom on the timber tractor, but the unsuppressed noise from the dynamo made it unusable. Given that ear defenders are essential we have resorted to sign language or silence on longer journeys.

 

Assuming the "ANR kit" is pretty much self contained I would suggest the hardest bit would be where to mount it on the back of the cab. Wiring it in would be the least of the worries

 

Working from memory - I was thinking a mounting board supported by brackets that are held by the bolts that hold the two cab halves together - mounted centrally on the rear wall and either hanging down and held off at the bottom by rubber feet or above the union and with another pair of brackets bolted through the cab wall. Board would be big enough to hold the IB3, ICB2 and perhaps an isolator switch. Obviously a more detailed plan can be drawn up once I have the old girl in its store and have the time to look and measure.

 

Looking on eBay right now - there is not a lot going in the ANR range although one seller is knocking out installation sets for £90 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLANSMAN-MILITARY-Vehicle-ANR-INTERCOM-HARNESS-SYSTEM-IB3-main-unit-and-2-x-CB-2-/311376195145?hash=item487f77ae49:m:mbDsdKHD_iFf8D1pYaZwEig

Says it is for a two user set-up - but has 2 x ICB3 boxes? No headsets or PTT switches - there is another seller who has the green PPT switches but there is a lack of ANR headsets currently.

[ArtistsRifles]

CB2 and IB2 will also work - the IB3 is really only useful if you have 3 radios (and loses some of the other features of the IB2). Of course if you have no radios it doesn't really matter ! The IB2 can be used directly with the 321 and 353 radios - the 351/2 need an external interface box called an IBHA to convert an audio socket to harness. There is a good set of wiring diagrams for the IB3/CB2 version at http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/intercoms_&_radios.htm and a freely downloadable manual at http://traktoria.org/files/radio/clansman/prc320/Clansman%20harness%20manual.pdf

 

Regards

 

Iain

 

PS Neil - I probably have some gold fronted harness boxes you can have (untested) for cost of postage

 

Thanks for the links Iain - they are very useful!! :)

And I'd certainly be interested in the ANR boxes - which ones do you have??

[ArtistsRifles]

Collection has had to be deferred to the 7th May due to a mix-up (on my part) as to the dates the current owner will be free.

[ArtistsRifles]

OK - got the thumbs up today from the seller and transportation that we are definitely go for Saturday the 7th.

Picking up two new type 663 batteries on Thursday and then the fun begins. :D

[saracenstump]

burco will be on but its self service ha ha

[ArtistsRifles]

burco will be on but its self service ha ha

 

I don't know - just can't get the staff these days!! :)

 

Hoping to be there about 15:00 ish!

[ArtistsRifles]

Picked up the two new batteries today - type 663's @£70 each.

 

[Zero-Five-Two]

7th tomorrow!! Breath has been baited and I've moved to the edge of my seat for you.

 

Must insist on loads of photos, please

[N.O.S.]

Don't forget the essentials!

 

[Degsy]

I hope you're not getting addicted to that stuff Tony:nut:

[ArtistsRifles]

Good news is the move went ahead and the old girl is now safe in her new home. Traffic issues amongst other things meant the planned timings slipped drastically and I finally got home at about 21:30 and too knackered to post anything.

One of the "hiccups" in timings involved me getting caught in the middle of an armed police raid on a local house. - not a good sign for the start of the new London mayor... Road go closed for a short while as two van loads of armed plod leapt out, removed a front door with one of their opening devices and swarmed inside. Took about 30 minutes before the road was reopened to traffic. But I got there in the end, the two new batteries were fitted and the old girl burst into life.

 

[video=youtube_share;0hPJS771kA4]

 

A while later and Andy arrived with the low-loader - she went straight on and once the neck was reattached we were ready to go - albeit apprehensively ad the height was looking a bit worrysome. The old girl stands at 13' 1" on her wheels so on the trailer considerable higher - 16' 2" at the highest point if I recall correctly. But it was agreed the route to Sible would be OK as the Dartford crossing has sufficient clearance on one of the bores - only concern - and it turned out justifiably - was the road down to the farm which has lots of overhanging trees. More later.

Once Andy was loaded and rolling I heade off to Sible to find out exactly where Stuart the owner of the farm wanted it put. Did manage to catch one snap of the loaded trailer:

 

 

Once at Sible it was a case of wait until the low loader arrived. Which it did at about 19:30 Once Andy had dropped the trailer and cleared the cab out of the away the fun started!! I reversed the old girl off the trailer and back between two buildings Both of which might best be described as fragile.Then proceeded to try and turn left at 90 deg. Cue 10 very nervous shunts in decreasing amounts of room before we got the old girl around and pointed in the right direction. From there it was plain sailing down to where Stuart wanted her parked. Sadly everyone else had had to head home for dinner so there was no one there to record the momentous occasion - or the fact I never demolished either building!! :cheesy: :cheesy:

For those interested the Mil Reg was 16 CL 49 and the service history was:

Entered service in 1959 - supplied under contract 6/V/27070, chassis number 0860-504

21 Sqdn RCT BAOR from 4/59 to 5/71

4 (Div) Regt RCT BAOR from 5/71 to 3/72

 

17 BVD (Stock) BAOR from 3/72 to 10/72

Ord Depot Antwerp from 10/72 to 4/73

17 Sqdn RCT BAOR from 4/73 to 4/74

621 MT Unit MSO BAOR from 4/74 to 4/74

627 ??? RCT BAOR from 4/74 to 5/74

1 BR Corps Veh Coy Recklinghausen from 4/74 to 6/78

Ord Depot Antwerp from 6/78 to 6/82

Vehicle Depot Ashchurch from 6/82 to 4/84

 

562 Sqn RCT (V) from 4/84 to 8/88

S/O ???? Blackbushe arrived 8/88

 

 

The "to do" list has already begun - but I think I have gotten off incredibly light given she has sat outside so long. Currently it comprises (in no particular order) and not including the bodywork I was already aware of:

 

• Air leak from somewhere around the rearmost axle - maybe a sticking valve?
  
• The engine stop by lifting the throttle pedal does not work - have to stall her out in a high gear currently.
  
• Door window winders do not work - and it gets VERY hot hauling that steering wheel around.
  
• Passenger door handle does not work - externally at least.
  
• Now needs a new silencer - the old one has blown apart!! Possibly a down pipe too
  
• Needs a handle for the indicator switch - should be easy enough to source.
  

 

 

First job though next weekend (today I am in dads taxi mode) is to wash all the algae and crap off - so a pressure washer will be put to good use. and then I can take stock of how bad the tin worm is and what needs to be done.. maybe find a couple of more items for the "to do" list. Good news is a stack of manuals came with her!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Zero-Five-Two]

 

The "to do" list has already begun - but I think I have gotten off incredibly light given she has sat outside so long. Currently it comprises (in no particular order) and not including the bodywork I was already aware of:

 

• Air leak from somewhere around the rearmost axle - maybe a sticking valve?

• The engine stop by lifting the throttle pedal does not work - have to stall her out in a high gear currently.

• Door window winders do not work - and it gets VERY hot hauling that steering wheel around.

• Passenger door handle does not work - externally at least.

• Now needs a new silencer - the old one has blown apart!! Possibly a down pipe too

• Needs a handle for the indicator switch - should be easy enough to source.

 

 

Won't be ready for the AEC Show at the end of the month, then !!

 

On a slightly more serious note, good to see you got her home without too much drama.

 

Morris Minor window winders make good replacements for Militant ones, and generally there more of them available.

 

I have a down pipe if you do need one.

 

I am insanely jealous of the books you got with her, especially the tanker parts list

 

Didn't realise how near Sudbury you are, may have to call round on the way to the Long Melford Show in July.

 

Best of luck with it, looking forward to more pictures etc

[ArtistsRifles]

Thanks for the pointer on the Moggie minor winders - that will be invaluable! Right now if I turn the handle on the drivers door I just get a grinding noise inside and the glass does not move - which is annoying as there is about 1'4" gap at the top letting the elements and the wildlife in. I did not realize how bad that part of things was until the sun caught the front of the cab during one of the shunts and then I realized virtually the entire front of the cab inside is spider webs. :wow:

The down pipe currently has a small hole, maybe 3mm dia, about 100 mm from the flange to the silencer. Might be possible to weld up - I won't know till the detailed look-see next weekend. If the rest of the pipe is sound I should be OK but if it is like the silencer then I'll take you up on that. Do you happen to know what can be used as a replacement silencer for the Mk 1??

The one on mine quite literally flew into a cloud of rusty fragments when she was started and revved up. :-)

 

 

You are welcome to borrow the Tanker ISPL any time. If you like - I will ask around and see if I can get it copied for you.

 

The vehicle is up near Sible, I live about 60 miles away in Dagenham so its weekends only for me as some one has to stay home with the dogs (1 very ill, 1 neurotic) but always glad to see militant lovers and a pair of expert eyes will likely see lots that I've missed. :-)

[David Ives]

neil not sure if same size

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bedford-TK-M-300cu-in-Petrol-330-381-466cu-in-Diesel-Exhaust-Silencer-/291756242252?hash=item43ee06f54c:g:WQ8AAOSwHaBWj8oc

[Butch]

Neil , l live 6 miles down the road from sible and and will be happy to supply a second or third set of eyes as l've owned a knocker for 15 years and have done nearly everything you can do in that time. a ford cargo part number TDE2P Timax ltd fits nicely as a silencer and a WB6M bend Timax ltd puts the smoke out the side.

[ArtistsRifles]

Many thanks Butch. The info on the silencer is great. The extra eyes would be very useful too

 

neil not sure if same size

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bedford-TK-M-300cu-in-Petrol-330-381-466cu-in-Diesel-Exhaust-Silencer-/291756242252?hash=item43ee06f54c:g:WQ8AAOSwHaBWj8oc

 

The guy has a number of these too David so I'll check measurements at the weekend. This is - or was mine - before it "exploded" into the cloud of rust.

 

 

Edited May 9, 2016 by ArtistsRifles

[ArtistsRifles]

End of the first day today. We have photos and videos so read on!! Firstly though an important lesson. If using a step ladder to un-lash the tail sheet and flip it onto the roof - make sure it is actually on the ground and not on top of two ruts. Otherwise - as happened today the ladder will shoot sideways when a rut collapses and whilst you are at the top of it leaving you hanging from the rearmost sticks before you drop, gouging the leg on the hinges and then falling the remaining 8 or so feet to land flat on your back. Which f&%k$£g HURTS!!!! :-( :-(

 

 

Now to business, First thing noticed was a soft front tyre Drivers side. Now I have no idea if it was soft on collection or whether I've picked up something manoeuvring to get into where it is parked at the farm. I believe there is a tyre inflator in the tool locker to be used with the inflation system on the vehicle - but the lock is rusted solid and needs to be cut off tomorrow. As do the ones on the oil can and jerry can carriers. The front lockers each have one of the T-key locks frozen - and on both it is the rear most one so they will need a good soaking in penetrating oil. And I need to invest in a set of T keys. Luckily I managed to borrow one today.

 

Both the T-key locks on the rear panel worked easily though - I guess because they were in regular use.

 

The rear body is not too bad - exposed rust was coated in Kurust today to arrest any further corrosion For sure the front drop side on the drivers side is pretty far bone albeit salvageable. Working around the vehicle outside from the passenger side front:

 

• Passenger door will not open on external handle.
  
• Silencer has blown apart (already knew that!)
  
• Rearmost t-key lock on the front locker is frozen and needs soaking.
  
• Padlock on the Jerry can holder rusted solid and needs cutting off
  
• padlock on the oil can locker rusted solid and needs cutting off.
  
• Bump stop on tail gate, drivers side, bracket is corroded to nothing.
  
• Padlock on the took locker is rusted solid and needs cutting off
  
• Rearmost t-key lock on the front locker is frozen and needs soaking
  
• Air leak from chassis mounted valve - compressor holds its own though.
  
• There are two holes in the roof - one at front on centre line and one to the rear of the drivers door that were originally taped over. Managed to tape over one again but the front centre was out of reach.
  
• There are bumps under the tape running around the edge of the roof section. Ominous!!
  

 

 

Up in the cab:

 

• Passenger door will not open from the inside either.
  
• Window regulator does not work at all. Glass tries to move when lowering but other than that - nothing.
  
• Passenger side front screen cracked - suspect because of heavy corrosion in vehicle from ( screen does not close fully.
  
• Wipers do not work. Turn on air top, turn on wipers and they make one sweep and stop.
  
• Temp gauge was all over the place. At 500 rpm its steady on approx 16. At 1000 RPM it was flicking from 16 to 20. At 1500 rpm it was flicking from 16 to 24. After leaving it a while turned off then restarting the gauge seemed to hold steady on about 12 (120 deg C) So I think the sender has cleared what ever was acting up.
  
• Cab interior light not working
  
• Horn not working No idea about dip switch - need to get some one to watch as it is operated.
  

 

 

The good news is all the lights are working - head side and tail as is the hazard warning light switch. Can't check the indicators as the lever is in half a dozen bits and needs replacing.The corrosion is a bit more extensive than I first thought - but its all doable. I think, though, that its going to take a bit longer than expected. I will be extremely lucky if she is anywhere near finished by the end of next year. I do not think - given the skills, facilities and financial resources available to me - that she will be at any shows next year.

 

Now - photo time

 

The leaking valve:

[

 

Rear of the rear cross member:

 

Pin hole on the roof - front centre one (note tape marks):

 

Roof taping - never seen this on a Militant before:

 

Cupola and cover:

 

Instrument panel in desperate need of a clean and paint:

 

Corrosion in cab corner & hazard warning switch:

Corrosion at rear of cab where the top and bottom are joined:

 

Passenger side windscreen - cracked and unable to close properly - due to corrosion in lower internal frame:

 

Broken indicator switch lever:

 

 

 

Videos

External walk around:

 

[ArtistsRifles]

The cab roof:

 

[ArtistsRifles]

Inside the cab:

 

 

 

Provided I do not lock solid with the after-effects of the fall today I will be back over with a pressure washer, hose and genny to clean her up tomorrow.

[Zero-Five-Two]

You sound a bit down at the end of day one, but given the skin removal and associated injuries from coming off the ladder, it is perhaps not surprising. A spell in the armchair and a cold beer and things will all look better

 

Generally speaking she doesn't look too bad. Much of the body corrosion appears superficial, De-rust and patch paint etc.

Seized locks and Hinges need patience and penetrating fluid rather than money spending.

 

Cab does need a bit of help, though

 

 

I've seen the taped roof before, on my timber tractor. It was a bit scary underneath. The inside ceiling on yours seems to have had extra plates welded into the corners, presumably hiding some nastiness. It is complete, though, and all repairable.

 

Better weather is here, get a few good days in and you'll be surprised how quick it suddenly improves. Get it washed tomorrow and it'll look like a different motor.

 

What you could do is patch it up quick, just enough to get on the road, take in a couple of local shows to get into the swing of it. Then plan/save up for the detailed restoration bit by bit.

 

I'll lend you my new rotisserie when I'm done with it

 

[ArtistsRifles]

You sound a bit down at the end of day one, but given the skin removal and associated injuries from coming off the ladder, it is perhaps not surprising. A spell in the armchair and a cold beer and things will all look better

 

Generally speaking she doesn't look too bad. Much of the body corrosion appears superficial, De-rust and patch paint etc.

Seized locks and Hinges need patience and penetrating fluid rather than money spending.

 

Cab does need a bit of help, though

 

 

 

I've seen the taped roof before, on my timber tractor. It was a bit scary underneath. The inside ceiling on yours seems to have had extra plates welded into the corners, presumably hiding some nastiness. It is complete, though, and all repairable.

 

Better weather is here, get a few good days in and you'll be surprised how quick it suddenly improves. Get it washed tomorrow and it'll look like a different motor.

 

What you could do is patch it up quick, just enough to get on the road, take in a couple of local shows to get into the swing of it. Then plan/save up for the detailed restoration bit by bit.

 

I'll lend you my new rotisserie when I'm done with it

 

 

 

Nice idea with the rotisserie :-) Should make life a lot easier. :-)

 

On the whole I feel quite upbeat about the vehicle in all honesty, Some parts are worse than I would have liked, many others less so and on the whole I am happy. I think the areas to concentrate on first are the cab, tailgate (esp. after my leg managed to almost rip the drivers side bump stop off) and that front dropgate on the drivers side. Everything else can be as and when I can work through it. A healthy dose of penetrating oil should fix most things apart, I think, from the padlocks and the window regulators - they will need replacing.

 

The cab roof does worry me a bit - that I will admit - as does the fact the passenger door will not open. The door feels jammed in the frame and I am wondering if the dreaded tin worm has swollen it, Same with the passenger windscreen - the bottom section of the cab frame has swollen so badly that the screen will not close onto the body properly and has actually cracked the windscreen. Not worried about the glass - that needed replacement anyway as it was going white from the bottom up.

 

I think maybe a quick waft with a soda blast might produce interesting results, inside and out. As you said in your thread luckily most of the metal is flat steel sheet. The lower corners of the cab and around the bottom foot steps will be the tricky parts as they are curved. We will get there though slowly but surely. Sheet metal work is not my particular skill though despite a toolmaking apprenticeship. And AFAIK - we do not have access to benders and wheels where she is stored. There is a CV restoring firm a few miles down the road though who do have this equipment so I might rumble her down there and get the curved area patches formed there ready for welding in. Problem will be cost I guess (always is ) so a bit at a time.

 

The cab interior and parts of the exterior also desperately needs the attention of a vacuum cleaner to get rid of the masses of spider webs everywhere.

 

Right now though the effects of the nose dive are making themselves felt big time so you are right about that part - lower leg feels like its burning and I'm slowly losing the use of the left arm as it freezes up. Hopefully a nights rest will see these reverting to normal a bit. If not them tomorrow might a trip to the local walk-in centre as I have type 2 diabetes and there is a risk of the lower leg ulcerating if it does not get back to normal quickly.

 

Won't be making that mistake again!! But I will have to sort out why the tailgate won't release from the locating cones - and why the lower cone on the passenger side is missing.

[ArtistsRifles]

Aaaand - grounded a;; day.... Got up this morning to find the left arm basically non-op bue to bruising etc so I couldn't drive - not even the auto Rangie

 

Means washing the old girl off will have to wait till next week now. I can get hold of some red oxide paint though so that any fresh metal and anything rubbed down can be given a protective coat. Think I might follow Robs advice and get the necessities sorted out - horn not working , wipers etc and give her a coat of satin green to tidy up then take her to a few days out/shows and see how she runs/get a feel for her ways.

[scotbb]

Hi Neil,watching your restoration with great interest you are doing a great job,I have a similar problem with my Mk 1 militant fitted with an atlas crane,just removed the roof panel which as one piece round the cupola,mine doesnt have the mg ring mounts tho, but had gone at all the edges and i intend to rivet back a slightly oversize panel and weld back the retaining ring round the cupola.I will have to do a windscreen too as drivers side is broken,gotta find out where all the electrics go to as not sure,and nothing works!best with your restoration.scott

 

 

Aaaand - grounded a;; day.... Got up this morning to find the left arm basically non-op bue to bruising etc so I couldn't drive - not even the auto Rangie

 

Means washing the old girl off will have to wait till next week now. I can get hold of some red oxide paint though so that any fresh metal and anything rubbed down can be given a protective coat. Think I might follow Robs advice and get the necessities sorted out - horn not working , wipers etc and give her a coat of satin green to tidy up then take her to a few days out/shows and see how she runs/get a feel for her ways.

[Zero-Five-Two]

Hi Scott, if you have a look at my militant tanker restoration there is a wiring diagram I printed that shows the connections block on the back of the dash. It may help with your electrical issues