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Land Rover 2.5 NA diesel engine rebuild (picture heavy)


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As some of you may know Im currently doing an ex-FFR 90 with my brother and its come to the engine rebuild stage so thought Id share what we've been up to and hope it helps some of you or interests you at the very least.


Stage 1: Getting the engine ready to lift onto the engine stand


Before doing anything, mark up the clutch and the flywheel so you know which way it goes when re-fitting. It makes life much easier if there is a chance of different hole centres in the clutch - just something I learnt through my own experience in work. The first thing to take off will be the clutch assembly




As the engine spins when you try and crack open a bolt, the proper timing pin was placed into the flywheel to hold it in position to stop the engine turning. (you could also either have a socket on the crank pulley or jam the ring gear if starter is removed)




The 6 retaining bolts were then removed using a 13mm socket






Once the assembly was removed, the bolts were put back in place so we dont lose them.




The flywheel bolts were removed using a 22mm socket on air driven impact gun, note the big retaining plate/ washer behind the bolts along with the dowel meaning the flywheel can only go back on one way






Revealing a rather oily flywheel housing, comfirming my suspicion that the rear crank seal is passing oil




Before taking the housing off, the starter motor was removed using 17mm socket and spanner. The earth bolt for the cable from the block to the motor is removed with a 13mm socket.






Next the flywheel housing itself is taken off, again with 17mm socket. There are 6 bolts inside the housing and 2 above. These 2 bolts have a bracket on them to hold wiring. These are also longer than the other 6




Its all pretty oily




Ready for lifting tomorrow evening




Tools needed:

Clutch assembly - 13mm socket

Flywheel - 22mm socket

Starter motor to engine block earth bolt - 13mm socket

Starter motor - 17mm socket and spanner

Flywheel housing - 17mm socket

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Stage 2: Removing the cylinder head


More progress, the engine stand was still set up for my 2.5N/a when that was on the stand which made life simpler. (Needs turning round in the photo)




Next up is to remove the breather pipes. These werent standard jubilees on this one, instead they were 6mm hex




The pipe going to the filler cap is held in place with this bracket which is removed with a 10mm socket/ spanner






Once these were removed, it was time to remove the rocker cover nuts with a 13mm socket. The rear one holds the other breather hose in place, and the middle one has the bracket on it for the heater pipes and filler cap breather hose






Rocker cover should then lift off. If its stuck a tap with a mallet usually frees it






Next step was the exhaust and inlet manifold which are removed using a 13mm socket on an extension bar




The image below shows the clamps on the top and just nuts at the bottom




Next up was the thermostat housing. This is removed through using a 10mm socket on the three bolts on top. These are very long and thin so if they're corroded then they may snap, luckily these came out easily








Then it was the turn of the injectors, first the pipes were removed








For the injectors, the spill rail was first removed using a 10mm socket to remove the banjo bolts. Next a 13mm socket was used to remove the two injector bolts. To get the injectors out the bore, a brass drift was used on the underside to knock them up gently, then a pry bar was used to lever them out being careful not to damage anything and being careful that it doesnt fly out the bore and land on the floor.




My brother has since taken his injectors to college to test, all are fine cracking off slightly above 135 bar but one has a little injector dribble so will be having a look at that later on

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Next job was to move the rear lifting bracket out of the way so as to gain access to the banjo bolt for the head oil feed. This was done with a 10mm socket.




Next an 8mm socket was used to remove glow plug wiring




Then the oil feed pipe was removed using a 19mm socket on the 2 banjo bolts, one in the head and one in the block






The glow plugs were then taken out with a 13mm dep socket and strung together with the wiring, at least now we cant misplace anything




Next the 13mm bolts holding the rocker cover to the head are removed (the smaller more gold looking bolts seen in this pic)




Once this was removed, the pushrods were taken out and placed into cardboard in order numbered 1 - 8. It is important not to get these mixed up




Once everything is off, the head bolts can be slackened off evenly going by the book to get the order for bolt removal




Can then be lifted off, ready to be serviced later, the hotspots have some large cracks going through them and theres a lot of crap in the water jacket





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