mat777 Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Hi all, I've just purchased a dismantled Meteor V12 engine, and am looking to rebuild it for static running. It currently doesn't have anything to engage with the crankshaft splined end but I would like to put some sort of flywheel on it. I'm aware that a Centurion clutch pack should fit right on, but would the clutch plates have enough rotating mass to make any difference, or am I best to dismantle a u/s clutch pack for its input shaft and then get something heavy fabricated onto the other end of the shaft? I have been given the details for Bob Grundy with regards to finding a pack but I'm still not entirely sure what one looks like inside or if they even come apart, so I'm fumbling around in the dark really - any ideas or advice would be most welcome! Thanks in advance, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Barrell Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 The tank clutch is a separate unit suspended on the engine on one end and the gearbox on the other. If you use one, you will need to come up with a support bearing to replace the gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddy Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Shouldn't need a flywheel to run the engine. All the meteors I've seen are run just by themselves. if you keep the standard ignition setup then the starting ignition circuit fires after TDC. The mag runs not that advanced any way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat777 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thanks chaps. Knocking up a support bearing shouldn't be a problem in the grans scheme of things. Caddy - although it doesnt need one, I would like to have some weight on it so that I can do more than just tickle the throttle open when running it statically - ie being able to really open it up like the Merlin guys can do due to having props on theirs. Thanks, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Herbert Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) Matt, Did you know that a Centurion clutch weighs almost the same as the engine ? I don't have the exact figures available but it needs a crane to install it. You would certainly be building a quite substantial bed to mount the engine and as you say, extending it backwards to support the back of the clutch would not be too dificult. A dummy gearbox input flange and a big self aligning bearing in a pillow block would do it. Have fun ! David Correction, see next post - the clutch is actually 1/3 the weght of the engine but still very heavy. Sorry ! Edited January 27, 2016 by David Herbert Wrong info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Weight in kg from REME recovery manual. Matt, Did you know that a Centurion clutch weighs almost the same as the engine ? I don't have the exact figures available but it needs a crane to install it. You would certainly be building a quite substantial bed to mount the engine and as you say, extending it backwards to support the back of the clutch would not be too dificult. A dummy gearbox input flange and a big self aligning bearing in a pillow block would do it. Have fun ! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Herbert Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thanks Sirhc, I stand corrected but it's still bl***y heavy ! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat777 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Thanks for the replies chaps.... didn't realise they were quite that big :wow: and in fact 200kg would tip the all-up weight over the limit for the ready-made Sankey-based rig I've bought for it! I think I shall indeed proceed down the route of getting a dummy shaft machined with a smaller flywheel on the end of it instead. Thanks for the advice and for preventing me making a costly mistake! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiffy_massive Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 When removing or refitting clutches we used to use a tin of compo processed cheese as the special tool. The size of the tin was just right to fit between the bottom of the clutch housing and the hull. Once in place under the clutch you could undo the ring of bolts and allow the cutch to rest on the tin until ready to lift with a crane. Using a tin for refitting allowed you to sit the clutch at the right height to slide the shaft in with relative ease before securing the bolts. Could be a horrible job some times. I can remember cutting my hand a coule of times on lock wire while trying to remove clutches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerDave Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 Late joining this discussion, maybe well finished. I have a Meteor, firing but not running, a clutch pack would give some inertia to keep going, looking for such, or input shaft and add some type of flywheel. any ideas would be appreciated. TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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