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Bit more progress on the Tanker this weekend.  Down to the small bits now, the five minute jobs that take all day. Fuel filter/sediment bowl fitted and a quick test.  Felt it was worth a short vi

Got to the point where I can't really do any more to the hose tubes, or the rear wheel arches, or any thing else until the tank has been painted in top coat. So, spent most of last week flatting

Started out on Friday evening over a beer or two writing a list of jobs that must be completed prior to going out for a road test.  It went on for 2 pages, some major tasks like wiring up the rear lig

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In amongst everything else, I've recently acquired 4 x jerry cans to fit the tanker side racks.




These 2 at a local boot fair, and 2 more from forum member Laboisselle. Many thanks to him


Unsure of the correct colour to paint them, I posed the question on the forum.


Clive Elliot provided the precise answer:


Regulations for the Equipment of the Army 1955, as amended in Equipment Regulations 1959 Pamphlet No.9.


Returnable POL containers (including jerricans)

Interior: Red oxide

Exterior: Spraying, Olive Drab

or Brushing, Light Stone



So Olive Drab it is, then.




Primer coat first (they look quite ghostly, just hanging in the air)




Finish coat of olive drab




Looking good and ready to load up

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I know the tags you mean, I remember seeing them, thin tin plate with 3 tabs on the corners to fold round the cans handle end, next to the cap.


I can't remember all the numbers, but diesel tag was a yellow "F54" Petrol was red and kerosene was grey.


As for finding some today, I reckon Rocking Horse Poo is more likely

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I know the tags you mean, I remember seeing them, thin tin plate with 3 tabs on the corners to fold round the cans handle end, next to the cap.


I can't remember all the numbers, but diesel tag was a yellow "F54" Petrol was red and kerosene was grey.


As for finding some today, I reckon Rocking Horse Poo is more likely


ust have been lucky then as they were attached to the jerry cans in the Land rover I got from Withams

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  • 2 weeks later...

After the tyre changing saga on the timber tractor, and everything else, it's been good to get back to a bit of tanker work. Been on the doors last weekend and this, they were in a bit of a state. Usual Militant issue, all rotten along the bottom edge.


255 Passengers Door.jpg


First up, Passengers side


253 Near Side Door Stripped.jpg


Tin worm getting in everywhere, Winder mechanism worn out, Glass intact but runners falling apart


256 Passengers Door Stripped.jpg


No time to be squeamish, rip it apart and start again




New skin of passengers door, notice that it is now a bit taller than the drivers one


254 Drivers Door Bottom.jpg


Next up Drivers side, not quite as bad as passengers, but!




Not much better inside




Same rule, if you are going to do it, do it all




New skin is the easy bit, repairing the frame takes a bit of thinking. It's not box section, just folded sheet welded together.




Bit of time and a good coat of paint and you get this




Good thick coat of zinc oxide! Wrong!! must have got too much thinners in it or something, it ran like mad and made a right mess :red: oops! Worse still I missed the top edge of the drivers door completely.





Ignoring the crap paint finish on the outside of the door, it's only the oxide base coat and will get rubbed down for a second coat anyway. I pressed on with fitting up the window glass with it's new runners and winder mechanism in the drivers door




New runners from www.Vintagecarparts Winder from Fleebay, reproduction bit for a Morris Minor. New inner panel will be cut out and riveted on this week and we are nearly there.


Only remains to sort the handles and locks. I have the original for the drivers side, just need to identify the right key for the lock. but the passengers one was missing completely, so need to find a matching new one.



Away from the doors, and in the great outdoors, got a coat of filler primer onto the cab roof, with no runs too!



Cab Roof in Primer.jpg


Really looks good now it's one colour. Couple of bits that could do with a skim of filler to smooth it off, but considering what it was like before, with holes all over it's not too bad.



Next up, the serious business of the bottom half of the cab


246 N-S Lower Framework.jpg


And, of course, the good weather is coming (NOT!!) I'll let you know :-D

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hi Rob. Sorry to hijack your thread, but have you ever had to change the top hose on a Militant? And if so how did you do it.



An absolutely wonderful experience. NOT!!!


371 U-S Coolent Hose.jpg


That'd be this cheeky little number!


371 Refill Coolant on way to sellinge.jpg


It let go on us on the way to a show when we had got the old girl back on the road in 2012. Not pleasant with a red hot engine to work on. There is 2 "top" hoses and a short length of metal pipe in between. Managed it by taking both hoses off, push the new bits over each end of the metal pipe, with a bit of lubrication and new jubilee clips. Then holding the pipe in the gap slide each hose along to its rightful position, and clamp up.


Had to sort of lay across the passengers seat to be able to reach round the engine cowl to get to it. Wasn't very nice at all. Take heart though, it's not the hardest one to get to! There is 2 small lengths of hose on the water pump close to the front of the engine. They are a positive nightmare to get to and will cause much blood letting and cursing


What I should have done was change all the hoses during the restoration while I had all the engine covers off, but they weren't leaking then so they got left alone. Rest assured the tanker will be getting a full set before it goes anywhere!

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Been having a couple of issues with the computer getting connected to the net lately so I haven't posted anything on the restoration. All OK now so here's the latest.


Last weekend we set about stripping the lower half of the cab.


278 Cab Stripping.jpg


Started with the engine covers and the rest of the near side


279 N-S-F Corner Inner Panel.jpg


The lower half is all double skinned with an inner and outer panel. Both are heavily corroded along the edges so new ones will be required


280 N-S Footwell Cornflakes.jpg


Loads of wet "cornflakes" of rust and gunge to be removed from the framework channels, but in the main the front half is complete.


281A Corrosion N-S.jpg


Same cannot be said of the back. The whole area behind the seat has basically rotted away, and will require major reconstruction.


Said to our Stuart, take plenty of photos of things as you take them off, we'll need them when it comes to putting it all back together


285 Electrics 5.jpg


So we've now got a job lot of pictures like this of the electrics. I hope he can remember which wire went where, cos he took them out!! I suppose we'll have to worry about that at the time


289 Good Days Stripping.jpg


Anyhow, not a bad days work, plenty of bits to be going on with. Took the rotten steering wheel off too, mainly just to get it out of the way of lifting the engine covers out. We expected it to be a fight to the death, but AEC's were designed with the retaining nut locked into the wheel, as you undo it, it jacks the wheel off, no effort at all. Mind you it has been soaking in penetrating fluid for about 8 months, so perhaps that helped.


293 N-S Stripped 3.jpg


Framework is all ready for de-rusting and repairing.


Back home then with a car full of work, and the neighbours take cover as the domestic workshop cranks up into full production


295 Electrolysis Bocket.jpg


Restart the electrolysis bucket for cleaning the smaller items. As well as clearing the rust off it doesn't do a bad job of softening the scabby paint


296 Side Pockets in Stripper.jpg


Not quite as effective as a large helping of nitromors. These are the 2 storage pockets from the nearside front panel. In the bottom of the long one we found a bag of crisps


297 Crisp Bag 1.jpg


I decided it probably not a good idea to try the contents given the date on the back of the packet


298 Crisp Bag 2.jpg


31 Dec 1974 Only 42 years old


300 Fuel Filter 1.jpg


Fuel filter looks to be about the same age


302 Widow Twankies Paint Shop AGAIN.jpg


Paint shop runs again with fresh red oxide everywhere

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Had to have a quick comfort break there!


Most of the panels on a Militant are simple shapes that can be knocked out with relative ease. The near side front corner is one of the exceptions. Has a ninety degree fold at the front, but this is on a curve. Cannot use the sheet metal folder for this, so bit of invention required.


Talking to Simon Daymond a couple of years back, he said he'd made new ones for his motor using a former made from a plank of wood. His looks quite good so we'll have a go


303 Wooden Former for N-S-F Outer Panel.jpg


Take one substantial plank of wood, cut it to the right curve


304 Folding N-S-F Outer Panel.jpg


Cut out new panel with an extra long edge to be folded over. Clamp it to the former, and beat seven bells out of it with a suitable size hammer. Trim off the excess bit and away you go.


305 N-S-F Panel Before and After.jpg


Compare with the old panel, doesn't look too bad, certainly got the curve in. Was a bit difficult to judge the length of the new panel, as the bottom 2 or 3 inches of the old one had rotted away.


307 Test Fit 2.jpg


Proof of the pudding as they say, had to have a test fitting. Please to say even the rivet holes lined up!! Used a screwdriver and a drill bit to hold it in place while I took the photo. Bit of tidying up will be needed once it is finally fitted but it will do fine.


Next up near side floor pan


309 Passengers Footwell 2.jpg


There seems to be a bit missing!!

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Great pictures and a lovely find too, I see a tool box similar to my picture by the passenger's front wheel (Photo of No Tow Hook 31-12-2015). Just wondering if it was part of the Tankers C.E.S, just a thought.


Tool box.jpg

Edited by Hutch3674
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I've come to the conclusion that patience is the answer to most things in this restoration lark. It's just a question of being able to wait long enough.


Finally after 9 months I've got the coveted letter from the DVLA granting me a registration number for the Tanker. So it officially exists as 294 UYU. Not exactly a distinctive number but it is age related. (Needs to be read with a false Chinese accent :D!!


Got to say the delay was not the DVLA either. Sent off first application in March, got a reply in 3 days. Rejected because I had no verification of the age and authenticity of the thing.


I didn't realise they'd want that at the time, but a quick thread on here got me the advice I needed and a letter went off to The Military Vehicle Trust Verification Officer, along with all the paperwork.


To be fair the MVT has had some issues with staff this year, but an awful lot of emails went back and forth and long periods of no reply from them, before I finally got the thing verified a couple of weeks ago.


Second application got posted to DVLA last Wednesday and I got it all back today. Certificate of registration and granting of number plate. Will get the V5C after the new year, about 4 weeks they reckon.


I have no desire to start an argument here, but there has been a lot of talk on the forum lately on the subject of registration. One point that keeps being repeated over and over is the requirement to complete a NOVA form with the application.


I did not complete a NOVA form nor did I have any Customs and Excise exemption documents. At no point was any of this requested by the DVLA either.


I did have copies of the Service Record from the RLC Museum. Copies of the Build Sheets from the British Commercial Vehicle Museum, and the verification certificate from the MVT. But that was it. Driving licence for Identity and insurance cover note. Job done.


With a bit of luck Father Christmas will bring me a set of shiny new number plates


Spot the updated signature block!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Happy New Year to all, hope 2017 is good to you.


Been a good few days off work, much partying was had by all, but there was a bit of tanker work as well.


Engine cover. Second to the big radiator out front, this has to be my favourite bit of the whole truck, possibly because you sit next to it when driving and therefore it has to look good.


Engine Cover 1.jpg


Needs a bit of effort


Engine Cover 2.jpg


Start with scraping the old paint off


Engine Cover 3.jpg


Sand off and fix the dents


Engine Cover 4.jpg


Thick coat of red oxide, then flat off ready for top coat


Engine Cover 5.jpg


This afternoons effort, top coat of deep bronze green. I'm getting quite into this colour, it don't half shine. Couple of bits of dust got in it but they will polish out once its hardened off.


The Green Room.jpg


Did paint a few other bits at the time, ceiling panel, side panel with kit pockets and fuel filter housing.


Next up passengers side floor. At the moment it's more rust and bits missing than it is good metal so much to do


309 Passengers Footwell 2.jpg

Edited by Zero-Five-Two
fix spelling mistakes
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  • 2 weeks later...

You can tell it's been a wet miserable day by the number of fresh posts on the forum. Lots of members trapped in doors with nothing to do. Fortunately I was not in that class and did get into the shed for a bit of Tankering.


Reconstruction of the Near Side Wheel Arch and Floor Pan


N-S Floor 1.jpg


Much to do


N-S Floor 2.jpg


Got to start somewhere, so pick an easy bit


Corroded N-S Battery Box.jpg


Well, it was easier than this bit, the Battery Box, and the remains of the floor


N-S Floor 3.jpg


Knowing what I'm like when it comes to measuring things, extra care was taken with this bit. The few remaining rust crumbs of structure were so flimsy, and it needs to be spot on as, ultimately, it holds the whole cab side frame in place, and that is just as crumbly as the end of the floor.


N-S Floor 4.jpg


Nowhere near finished but coming on, at least it's straight and quite solid now

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  • 2 weeks later...

More wheel arch this weekend. Not a bad result either


314 N-S Floor 7.jpg


Two more bits of plate to replace the rotten. Fortunately I was able to keep, and work with, the central part of the original wheel arch. Replicating that double curve would have been a bit too much. Quick tidying up of the welds and a smear of filler and she is ready to paint


315 N-S Floor 8.jpg


Thick coat of Hammerite stonechip goes on first. This will protect the underside from whatever road dirt the tyres can throw at it, and the top side from all the boot scuffs it will get from passengers getting in and out


316 N-S Floor 9.jpg


Top side then finished in DBG


317 N-S Floor 10.jpg


Got to say I am getting quite into this colour, it does shine well. All ready for the moment of truth next weekend when it gets fitted back in the truck. I'll find out then if all my measurements are any good.

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