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Bit more progress on the Tanker this weekend.  Down to the small bits now, the five minute jobs that take all day. Fuel filter/sediment bowl fitted and a quick test.  Felt it was worth a short vi

Got to the point where I can't really do any more to the hose tubes, or the rear wheel arches, or any thing else until the tank has been painted in top coat. So, spent most of last week flatting

Not achieved much since the grand run out, in the great scheme, but a fair bit of smaller results, have kept the progress going. First up, repair the damage caused by urolling the spare wheel int

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Christmas socialising is off this year, so might as well do some more Tanker tinkering.

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Bright and early start on Monday morning.  Well I was, weather was grey, damp, cold and generally unpleasant, so didn't stay long.  Just enough to remove the Pump and drive chain, clean the floor up and give it a coat of Bonda Primer.  Then rush back home before I froze to death.  At least this gives me somewhere clean and dry to sit while I de-rust the ceiling when the temperature improves.

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Back in the home workshop, first job, fire up the new heater and warm the place up. Does a fine job, but I'm not sure yet, if I should be scared of the next electricity bill.

Went for the drive chain cover first, it needs a couple of repairs, but then I found out I'm out of welding gas and can't get any more until I go back to work next week, so that's in the pending tray for now.

Right, then deep breath and go for the big boy.

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One Varley double helical SH75 fluid pump.

 

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I know this 'cos it says so on the label. 

Weighing in at more than I want to lift by myself, and capable of delivering 100 gallon per minute.  Or at least it used to before it seized solid.  Does turn about a quarter of an inch each way with a big pair of stillsons on the drive sprocket, but can't get it to do any more.

The following sequence of photos are the results of about three days solid work, but I'm pleased to say that despite extensive and gratuitous use of a big copper hammer and other tools of violence I didn't damage anything, and the whole thing looks like it will live again.

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Drive sprocket and shaft cover removed

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Front cover plate removed

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Back cover off, don't see too much grease in those bearings

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Back end cleaned off so we can see what we are doing.  Thought, at first, the bolt holes were for jacking bolts.  3/8" BSW.  Spent an age sorting through every box and tray in the place trying to find some, but to no avail, so ended up re-cutting some M10 down to fit.

Anyway, they aren't for jacking, you bolt a puller onto them.

 

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But you have to make the puller first.  As you can see by the long crack bar, they weren't that keen on coming out.

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Gets there in the end, popped out at the last bit, hence dropping the crack bar to save dropping the bearing

 

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Can see why it was a fight to get out, now, bit rusty inside

 

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Once out separating the bearing wasn't too bad, just had to crack off the dried grease

 

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Mark 2 puller was better, cleaned up the sharp edges, and got a better length of bolt in the centre.  Top bearing wasn't as tight as the bottom one, but it also had the benefit of an overnight soaking in penetrating fluid, so perhaps that helped.

 

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Top shaft seal is free, but the bottom one is stuck in

 

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Repeat the process for the front drive shaft end.  Both shaft seals came out easily, but like the rear end the aluminium spring carriers and the springs were all well stuck.  Got the springs out with a pair of long nose mole grips, by twisting them to wind each spring upwards. 

There's not much to get hold of on the carrier to pull them out with out causing damage, but I found a half inch socket extension that fitted nicely into a spring hole and after as good while wobbling and wiggling while running penetrating fluid round the edge each one freed up enough to slide out.

Behind these is a phosphor bronze wear plate with nothing to pull on.   Tech manual suggests they just slide out.  Ha Ha!! yeah course they do!  Beating one end of the drive shaft with a copper lump hammer eventually knocks the other end out along with the shafts and the pump gears. 

Beating and eventually are merely figures of speech here, I was really giving it some at first to get them to move at all, and was partly convinced I was just knocking the shafts out of the middle.  I even got the vernier gauge out at one point to prove to myself that they were moving

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  Casing is still heavy even when empty, now awaiting it's turn in the grand clean up

 

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And numerous fragments as they say.  Internal bits laid out in some sort of order as they were removed.  It all actually looks a bit like the exploded diagram in the tech manual too!  I've spent today cleaning this lot and bagging it all up, so more pictures tomorrow once it's all done and I can do a proper layout.

All the time this has been going on the drive chain has been soaking in this bowl of WD40.  Hopefully it will help free it up a bit

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Edited by Zero-Five-Two
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Got the rest of the pump room in red oxide today

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Not exactly the nicest place to have been working, bit cramped and awkward to reach some bits. But you have to make the best of things.

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Comfy chair and heater, who could ask for more? 

On a serious note, heater worked rather well when it came to the painting.  After de-rusting, bung the heater in with the doors shut while you go to lunch, warmed the whole thing up beautifully.  Obviously heater out while spraying, but as soon as the vapour cleared heater back in to help with the drying.  Job done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yes it is, been using it for years. Can brush it, or thin it with about 25% standard thinners and spray on. Touch dry in about half an hour. Sticks to anything

Red colour does tend to bleed through green top coat, so I usually do a grey primer over it first to seal it

Certainly seems to keep the tin worm at bay

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4 hours ago, the DT guy said:

very detailed restoration would be great to see it at shows doing work like replenishing steam engines with water etc. 

So would I!!  Hopefully we will get some shows to go to this year, and the whole plan is to have it working in some way

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Fished the pump drive chain out of the WD40 bowl on Sunday and spent several hours working each link in turn to get them to free up.  All bar a block of 3 have freed up nicely, but I suppose you have to have a couple of difficult ones to make it interesting.  The 3 in question do move but only under protest, so it's back in the soak for a few more days.

Pump case and end plates got a coat of paint

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Early finish from work today, so I thought I would start putting the pump back together.

First off, lay out all the clean bits in the right order.

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Looks a lot more like the tech book diagram now.

Plan A was fit all the internals, and make sure it all turns like it should.  Then clean up the end plate studs and make new gaskets,  finally bolt it altogether.

Didn't quite work like that, but in a good way.  Shafts in first followed by wear plates, then spring carriers all with a liberal coating of high pressure pump grease. Problem was the first end slides in easy, but then as you push the other end in, the first end slides back out.  Whole lot slides each way with ease.

So plan B, slide the back end components in, new gasket, and plate on, torqued up all done

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Looks good, and yes, it all turns sweetly.  Tomorrow, once the painted nuts on this end have dried, turn over and slide in the other end.  

 

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I've been giving this a good deal of thought actually.  I like the idea mentioned earlier by The DT Guy of carting water round steam rallies, would make a great show piece, being seen to be working.  BUT, as we all know water isn't known for it's lubricating properties, more so for corroding ferrous metals.  

While most of the pumps components are aluminium, brass or gunmetal, but the actual gears and roller bearings are steel and wont appreciate a regular coating of water. 

Tanker was built to carry and pump various fuels so first thoughts are pump needs the lubrication of passing diesel etc. It could have also carried petrol and that's not much good for lubrication.  The drive shafts within the pump are sealed with spring loaded rubber seals, but the rest like the bearing and spring carriers are just a very close metal to metal fit and there is bound to be some seepage, within the casing, of the pumped fluid especially as it is under pressure.

Eventually this will wash out all the grease I've put in and we'll be back to where we started with a seized pump.  

 

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5 hours ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

 BUT, as we all know water isn't known for it's lubricating properties, more so for corroding ferrous metals.  

Eventually this will wash out all the grease I've put in and we'll be back to where we started with a seized pump.  

 

Not so much eventually, more the end of day one.  That isn't designed for pumping water, the tanks probably aren't coated to resist it, and the whole mechanism that has lasted well under a layer of hydrocarbon will be wrecked.  If you want to pump water - get a fire engine.

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On 1/14/2021 at 4:09 AM, Gordon_M said:

Not so much eventually, more the end of day one.  That isn't designed for pumping water, the tanks probably aren't coated to resist it, and the whole mechanism that has lasted well under a layer of hydrocarbon will be wrecked.  If you want to pump water - get a fire engine.

I think you are absolutely right, and much as I like the idea of doing the water thing with it, it's not really a good idea.  I might get one afternoons fun out of it, and after that it's ruined.  All that restoration work and years of history out the window.

 Bit like Indiana Jones, brilliant archaeologist, maybe, but every time he finds a priceless artefact, he goes on to wreck it!!    Think of the last crusade, the old Knight had kept that temple tidy for all those years, Jones turns up and ten minutes later the place is in ruins!!

Buy a fire engine?  Nah, don't think so 😁

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40 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

Buy a fire engine?  Nah, don't think so 😁

next up on this channel - surprise Militant Fire Engine. 😁

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On 1/17/2021 at 10:51 AM, john1950 said:

I have just seen a photo of several Mk1 Militant's fitted with rope operated backhoe/face shovel equipment. I wonder if any survive.

I believe there is at least one, owned by a forum member who goes by the name Ashcollection. But I don't know what stare it is in or if he still has it. As a former plant man with an obsession for Militants Iwould love to have it

Can you post the picture in the Militant Gallery, would love to see it.

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5 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

I believe there is at least one, owned by a forum member who goes by the name Ashcollection. But I don't know what stare it is in or if he still has it. As a former plant man I would love to have it

Can you post the picture in the Militant Gallery, would love to see it.

Bit like this?

 

aec-militant-6x6_26473.jpg

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After putting in so much effort to get everything functional rather than just roadworthy and looking excellent cosmetically I fully understand you would like to use it to actually transport and deliver something.

Realistically though maybe a step too far? Not least as this would only be done occasionally there is the residue in the system.

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That is an absolutely outrageous  monster of a piece of kit.  You've just got to love it, but I'll bet it is hard work to operate with any degree of success too.  Definitely one for the fantasy barn that is.  Anyway, one at a time please, got to finish the Tanker first 😁

Pump is back together, turns quite nicely now too.

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Back on fixing up the chain cover, now I've restocked the welding gas

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New corners on the top half

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And start cleaning the bottom half

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Which revealed a few holes around the bottom drive sprocket area.  Incidently this is where the drive chain links were most seized too, and was at the time of removal from the truck, full of wet muck, so not that surprising there was problems here.  One of those rust holes possibly started life as a drain point which got blocked and it all went from there.

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Nothing that can't be sorted with a bit of tin bashing and half an hours welding.  Needs a skim of filler and finish cleaning the old paint off and it'll live again.

Drive chain is all freed off now, prolonged soaking in WD40, and plenty of time sat there working each link back and forth.  It's sat in a tray of engine oil now to help keep it supple until fitting time.

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Seeing as you mentioned the fantasy barn Rob, here is a list of actual and projected Millies that we expect you to get stuck into as time allows......

FV 11001 / 11002 : Ballast Tractor 10 ton General Service Medium/Heavy Anti-Aircraft 6x4 / 6x6.
FV 11003 : Truck 10 ton General Service Crane Bridging 6x4 or 6x6.
FV 11004 : Truck 10 ton General Service Tipper ( End Only ) 6x4.
FV 11005 : Truck 10 ton General Service Tipper ( Three Way ) 6x4.
FV 11006 / 11009 : Truck 10 ton General Service Fuel Tanker 2500 Gallon 6x4.
FV 11007 / 11008 : Truck 10 ton General Service Cargo (14 ft / 16 ft) 6x4.
FV 11010 : Tractor 10 ton General Service for Semi-Trailer 6x6.
FV 11011 : Truck 10 ton General Service Crane Missile 6x6.
FV 11012 : Truck 10 ton General Service Cargo Dropside 6x4.
FV 11013 : Truck 10 ton General Service Crane General Purpose 6x4.
FV 11014 : Truck 10 ton General Service Excavator 6x4 or 6x6.
FV 11015 : Truck 10 ton General Service for 20 ton Trailer 6x6.
FV 11016 : Truck 10 ton General Service Cargo ( 18 ft Dropside ) 6x6 Front hook 7 ton Winch.
FV 11017 : Truck 10 ton General Service Self Propelled Launcher 6x4.
FV 11021 : Truck 10 ton Tipping Platform, Self Loading, RE 6x6.
FV 11022 : Truck 10 ton Heavy Duty ( RAF ) 6x6.
FV 11031 : Tractor 10 ton General Service Light Anti-Aircraft 6x6

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